Replacing your engine main room harness?? (Part # 82111-04G80)

Which lights stay on after removing key from ignition?

 

Engine just cracks now (didn't before) but does not start. I can take a picture of the guages when I get home from work but it's the check engine, selt belt, oil, fuel gauge works, back lighting for the guages as well. I probably missing a few

 

Maybe crank it a few times and pull a spark plug, see if it's wet (getting fuel).

 

I bet you would find other hack job repairs to the wiring you pulled out. That might of been the solution to get the truck sellable. Since your new problem is post harness swap, the old harness was probably modified to avoid a costlier repair job. I could imagine a driver fender impact could pull the fuse box and wiring apart. I would inspect the wiring on the driverside engine bay for similar alterations. I would find any part of wiring that looked odd, newer electrical tap and conduit, zip ties etc and unwrap it. My truck had similar hackery.

 

I would agree but that whole portion of the wiring harness has been replaced with a brand new harness, not to mention the one under the dash - so I am excluding anything under the hood for now. I was looking over my hold main engine bay harness and noticed someone spliced into the ignition coil plug - splicing the white/blue wire for some reason. I assume this is the accessory wire? but I can't tell what they spliced the other end too.

 

Try googling your vin. You might find pictures of the original damage ie auction listing. That might point you in a direction of where to inspect. I had a lowered car in the past where the tire rubbed 5 wires down to bare copper causing similar problems. Maybe you're introducing a constant 12v somewhere it shouldn't be.

 

Would you show us a picture of that splice?

 

Holy cow

 

OP, just wondering if you don't mind me asking, how much did you get the truck for?

 

here is the plug that connects into the Ignition Switch Part # 84450-71010. Just to be clear the splice is brown wire. That same brown wire matches the splice from the original picture I posted of jumper connection behind the head unit. Not sure what this splice would accomplish though.

 

19k for the truck, only 2 monthly payments in though. Still optimistic about getting this fixed because she is still pretty clean inside and out. Hoping to make it to the Rock Therapy event in Moab at the end of the October but its not looking good haha

 

High Amp juice to head unit...bypassed. as always hot...

 

I know this is going to sound 'old school' but I'm thinking, take it down to the basics. first step is figure out if it's an ignition problem or fuel problem. Meaning, is the fuel system being disabled or the ignition system. Then trace back from there.

 

Thanks for the information caribe you've been a big help. Just to wrap up a few questions above, the messed up wiring was never explained. This was all discovered after the dealership said they could not sync a new key to my truck.

So today I cracked open the old harness and traced every single wire, there was a lot of funny stuff going on (mismatched colors, butt connectors etc) but everything checked out. I also recreated the jump from the Ignition switch to the "High Amp Juice" wire behind the head unit - had no luck turning off the accessory lights. I disabled the weird jump I had recreated and focused on the ignition some more.

After swapping the old ignition cylinder and ignition switch back in - and a few minutes of playing around with the keys; I did manage to get the truck to start and run!! (we are getting fuels kids!!) Finally some progress too - but this had created a possibly worse problem, the truck will not shut off with the key anymore! I can literally remove the key from the ignition and the truck continues to run and drive (pretty scary shit). The only way to turn it off is disconnecting the battery leads. Regardless, I am going to purchase another OEM ignition switch (the other one was $15 dollars off Amazon and I just don't trust it).
Gonna give it another few days in the driveway once the new ignition switch arrives? The dealership is looking like a good option again

 

Way back in this thread, you unplugged the ignition switch and the problem remained. A lot has happened since then. If you suspect the Amazon ignition switch, unplug it and see what hapens. If the dash lights remain on, maybe try pulling the fuses 1 at a time and see which one makes the dash lights go out. Then you will know which circuit is feeding everything.

 

So the stealership couldn't get you a new key coded in. And the old key kinda worked. Narrowing it down. Seems the engine immobilizer is not cooperating. Does the key reminder buzzer work? (door open & keys in but OFF)

 

the key buzzer does not work actually! Everything at this point works as intended - except the gauges which are still illuminated with the key out of the ignition and the small part of the key not turning off the engine haha. Just some interesting things I've noticed with the internal dash fuse box - (start from the upper left) aka fuse 1 the 15 and fuse 2 the 7.5 amp both kill the lights to my gauges. (picture of the fuse box below for reference)

Fuse #1 - 15 AMP Fuse: Multiport Fuel Injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system, Anti-lock brake system, traction control system, vehicle stability control system, SRS Airbag system, front passenger occupant classification system

Fuse #2 - 7.5 AMP Fuse: Meter and Guage, Emergency flashers

Obviously, we all know what fuse #2 controls but I am actually surprised that fuse #1 kills the gauges. Would anyone mind doing a sanity check for me? Does that fuse kill your gauge lights too?

Another question; is anyone aware of any post airbag deployment reset for the truck? My thought is that the truck is stuck in some safety mode or whatever post-accident state - so whoever repaired the truck was neither too cheap or too dumb to reset it the systems and just by-passed the immobilizer with the wiring?

 

Didya look on the cubby drawer...?

 

This is from a 2005. Yours may vary...

 

I don't think dealership is a viable option at this point. You're already more knowledgeable than most techs you're likely to find.
Electrical gremlins are the worst. Just gotta keep at it, and you'll get it eventually.
You'll learn what every single wire does.
On the positive that will help with future repairs.
Good luck, OP