Resistor identification???

To anyone who's an electronics guru, what size resistor is this, and what are the specifications so I can order the same or equivalent replacement? Thanks!!!

 

Ugh. The color bands are gone. I have a chart but with them gone it’s pointless.

 

0.33 ohms +/- 5%. I’d get the biggest wattage you can squeeze in

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/through-hole-resistors/53

 

Thanks, wasn’t sure because the dot looks like it’s positioned to be a multiplication, not a decimal.

 

Does .33 ohms sound correct for a dome light circuit?

 

Can't really tell without understanding the circuit its in.

 

It is definitely 0.33 Ohms 5%. Might be a power shunt for current monitoring or similar. Do you know what happened to fry it?

 

No, but it’s possible I put the LED dome light in backwards.

 

Maybe get wider shots for context. It is a dome light board behind a light diffuser?

 

It is the body ECU board. No idea about the diffuser.

 

not really to me unless a current monitor shunt. curious how you know it is dome light circuit?

 

I don’t. But it’s the only thing that’s obviously blown and a few other guys that know more then I do have said that it is the problem. To clarify, the dome light will not come on in the door position. All of the wiring and the switch is intact and working correctly. The fault is at the body ECU, from what I’ve heard, it is that resistor.

 

Looks like it might be 2W. Maybe try 5W and see if it lasts longer?

 

It lasted 5 years with that resistor and the same bulb combo, so I would imagine with a 5W you’d be set.

 

Does it need a flame retardant coating or anything special like that? Or just any old .33 ohm +/-5% 5W resistor?

 

Really it shouldnt be frying in the first place but I have no idea what is going on in the circuit.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/ohmite/25JR33E/823144

If you want to oversize. This is an inch long. You can stand up one side to make it fit. If the leads don't fit through the board you can solder the biggest leads that do fit through, then twist and solder those to this. Don't drill the board unless you known it is only 2 layer. Else look for around 2W for the leads to probably be the diameter the board expects.

 

Well it seems to be related to putting in LEDS for the dome lights, since I’m not the only one who has had the same thing happen.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/really-long-shot-on-dome-light-issue.803420/

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/03-tacoma-under-dash-fuse-box-help.1766312/

 

If I had to guess wildly…

that beefy fet next to the resistor might be used to pwm the lights in order to dim them. That resistor is between the gate of the fet and probably the output of a microcontroller on the other end. The purpose of the resistor is to limit the gate current when microcontroller is rapidly switching to keep the output of the microcontroller happy. When you swap LEDs in instead of bulbs, it may be that the microcontroller keeps trying to fade the lights for longer due to the electrical differences between leds and incandescents, meaning the resistor spends more time than it should dissipating heat and overheats.


Total guess based on a couple pics though,I’d have to get one on a bench to play with to really know.



does it fade out normally with the leds installed?

 

I don’t remember if it did or not. It goes off instantly when you unlock with the fob and wait till it re-locks itself, or when unlocking with the fob and opening the door.