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Retrofit questions

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by primer, Nov 13, 2011.

  1. Nov 13, 2011 at 6:09 AM
    #1
    primer

    primer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    First my apologies. These will seem basic. I try not to ask stupid questions and I know how to search. Each time I think I've found the answer to these I read something else that makes me doubt what I thought was correct.

    This looks like an awfully good deal to me:
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/deals-coupons/183173-projector-retrofit-kit-160-a.html

    I know TRS is a good supplier and sells a morimoto mini set that seems to be more respected. Hard for me to tell what the differences are. TRS has lots of options, not sure how to compare things.

    As I understand it BOTH kits would plug into the existing wiring harnesses and be completely reversible. Is that correct?

    Now on to more basic things.

    Halos = Angel Eyes. Correct?
    Demon eyes = ??! Is it just colored light output? I really can't find a definition of what Demon eyes are.

    When are the halos/angel eyes on? Are they the low beams? Are they on all the time like DTRL? Can you turn them off? There doesn't appear to be a switch for them.

    I promise I've searched - can't find definitive answers to these qq.

    Thanks for the help.

    TL
     
  2. Nov 13, 2011 at 6:37 AM
    #2
    primer

    primer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yes - Thanks a lot for the quick reply. This confirmed most of what I suspected.

    Except for one thing. I thought some of these sets installed without any cutting or anything. I know I will have to open the light. Planning on doing the bhlm anyhow. But I don't want to do a bunch of epoxy and stuff (beyond what is necessary to seal the light back up after the bhlm). Some of what I've read shows a lot of modification to the back of the light. I thought these pretty much fit in like you were changing a bulb - except that you do have to have access to the front. Am I missing something?

    I'll need to do more research about the TRS option. I'm just not educated enough to make an informed decision yet.

    Thanks again for clarifying things.

    TL
     
  3. Nov 13, 2011 at 7:51 AM
    #3
    primer

    primer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Just to clarify:
    I know you don't use epoxy for the bhlm. But I think I've seen people use it for some retrofits.

    When I say "these pretty much fit in like you were changing a bulb" I mean the ebay kit and the morimoto mini kit. I know some of the others require a lot more. I'm guessing that's the FXR kit.

    Thanks again.

    TL
     
  4. Nov 15, 2011 at 1:36 AM
    #4
    Frostbyte

    Frostbyte Well-Known Member

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    I been debating buying this same kit, but doing the BHLM intimidates me....
     
  5. Nov 15, 2011 at 5:34 AM
    #5
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    Follow Viet's write-up and you'll get through it without a hitch. If you're really nervous about it (like I was) you can buy another set of lights to modify then sell off your stockers when you're done. That way your truck has virtually no down time and you can take your time with the mod. The whole process is actually a lot easier than you might think. Just make sure you have all your supplies when you start and set aside enough time to do it correctly so you're not rushing.
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/lighting/65226-how-black-head-light-mod.html
     
  6. Nov 15, 2011 at 5:46 AM
    #6
    primer

    primer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks again for the help with my qq.

    Agreed that the BHLM looks doable with the good write up. Unfortunately now I'm stalled because I can't decide if I want to retrofit...

    I'm not opening those lights twice!

    TL
     
  7. Nov 15, 2011 at 9:54 PM
    #7
    4x4Taco09

    4x4Taco09 Well-Known Member

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    RETRO!!!! just did mine today, literally lol

    new headlights
    [​IMG]

    open
    [​IMG]

    paint
    [​IMG]

    install
    [​IMG]

    glue and install
    [​IMG]

    adjust and be amazed! i did this in literally 6 hours. start to finish, i started right wehn UPS dropped of my new housings lol
    [​IMG]

    in a nutshell thats it man
     
  8. Nov 15, 2011 at 9:59 PM
    #8
    Frostbyte

    Frostbyte Well-Known Member

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    what retros did you go with?
     
  9. Nov 15, 2011 at 10:01 PM
    #9
    4x4Taco09

    4x4Taco09 Well-Known Member

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    morimoto mini DS2s with apollo shroud, five 5 ballasts 50 Watt 6K bulbs. not trimming at all, if i want to go back, litterally reverse everything
     
  10. Nov 15, 2011 at 10:08 PM
    #10
    AsianAnts

    AsianAnts just an AnT

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    in the motorcycle world, the original demon eyes was the light that surrounds the whole housing like so:

    [​IMG]

    Now, many refer to demon eyes as placing an LED to light up the inside of the projector like such:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yU2UtRwJQUc&feature=relmfu

    In the video, they used blue for the demon eyes
     
  11. Nov 15, 2011 at 10:24 PM
    #11
    stunt man hans

    stunt man hans displaced viking living in New Hampshire

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    THE LIVE FREE OR DIE STATE
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    morimoto mini H1 will be a superior projector in every single way compared to the projector you linked. not trying to bash the guy on here who is selling them but, they fail hard when compared to a real projector. this is not my opinion it is a fact.

    i will give you some links :) look these over and tell me if the mini H1 does not blow the G1 G2 and G3 what ever projectors out of the water imo you would have to be blind not to see the difference.

    http://jvxdriver.com/Mini H1 vs. Oem TL with Clear Lens.htm

    the link i just posted here demonstrates the mini H1 compared to the TL projector one of the best bi xenons money can buy and it hold it's own plus i know a guy that can color mod and tweak them to be even sharper and more colorful they can be made to be extremely nice!
    they are the best bang for the buck period.
     
  12. Nov 15, 2011 at 10:32 PM
    #12
    stunt man hans

    stunt man hans displaced viking living in New Hampshire

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    THE LIVE FREE OR DIE STATE
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    it depends on how you mount them. the fx-r is almost king of the heap for bi xenons imo second only to the LS 460 when properly modded they are very nice.

    the fx-r demands that you cut a small section of the reflector bowl not so much of a big deal if you already in there imo. compared to the mini which no cutting is needed. if i where to mount either projector however i would not use the locking nuts provided with the minis at all in fact they blow for mounting your projector imo. i would sink the rear of the projector in a ton of jb weld that way the projector sits nice and far back which gives it a great look and keeps things vibration free and allows the retrofitter to get exact alignment across all planes of adjustment.

    once the jb weld dries you would need a jack hammer to get it out it is a much more secure way of mounting the projector.

    if you go with the mini H1 they are hard to beat dude easy to retrofit and tremendous light out put and color they are also very even in the way the light is spread out even more so than the fx-r.
     
  13. Nov 15, 2011 at 10:38 PM
    #13
    stunt man hans

    stunt man hans displaced viking living in New Hampshire

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    looks good in the housing but, your alignment seems to be off a good bit unless the photo isn't showing the cutoff properly.

    imagine a set of eyeballs crossed in on each other thats what it appears you have going on just fyi. like i said though they look great and it may just be the photo either way grats the fx-r is bad ass man.
     
  14. Nov 15, 2011 at 10:58 PM
    #14
    4x4Taco09

    4x4Taco09 Well-Known Member

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    I thought at around 25 foot you want the "step" to be straight on each other? I know if I got closer or further they start separating. How am I supposed to set it?
     
  15. Jan 20, 2012 at 4:29 PM
    #15
    anethema

    anethema Well-Known Member

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    I know old thread I'm just researching retro stuff. Just wanted to answer 4x4Taco09's question since I had the same one before beginning to look around.

    The beams should be perfectly parallel. The cutoff slant things should never join or get further apart at any distance. That plus the lower cutoff part 2-3 inches down from headlights and there is your aiming!
     
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