Rheostat/Dash Dimmer set on 'high'. Not able to adjust

You'll have to remove a lot of other panels first. I'd say remove the one below the steering column first and look up there with a flashlight to see if anything looks out of place. No need to dismantle the truck if it's not needed.

 

The dash has its own ground.
Maybe @Jimmyh or @Muddinfun will know if this will allow the dash lights to work with no dimmer plugged up?

 

Yes, With the dimmer unplugged the dash lights will all work. That is what I was trying to say in my previous post.

They just will not dim and will run at full brightness.

 

Tried to have a look to see what's back there but I'm unable to see anything. The panel has to come off and then perhaps it might even be a simple case of reattaching the pieces again. Perhaps they came that way from the factory? Don't really have a garage, and so the truck's baking at in the summer heat. Will try to get it under shade before I take the panels off Would be a nice result if just plugging it in would resolve the issue. Fingers crossed. Anything else I can do in there while I've got it opened up?

This has all been amaziningly useful info. Thanks all!

 

Where are you located?

 

Maryland here. I'm going to attempt this next week. Can borrow a garge then.

 

Also now noticed that the radio dials and buttons do not illuminate. Possibly a problem connected with this?


This is what I see in the dark with my lights turned on.Is this normal for a base Tacoma? Makes it nigh impossible to use the radio in the dark.

Bought the truck just over a week ago. I'm taking it back to the dealership. I shouldn't have to deal with this.

 

Wish you luck it is an easy fix.!

 

If you were closer I could help you out.

 

Really appreciate that. Thanks. Hoping that the dealership can deal with this right now.

 

Yes.

It is either a spudger or the dash panels come out or the dealer.

 

Taking it in tomorrow (Wednesday) and will be out of town until the following Monday. So hopefully they'll have enough time to fix it. My suspicion is a duff rheostat, a bulb gone in the hazard switch, and dubious wiring after a radio replacement, which knocked out the radio button's backlights, which could also be why the rheostat was fried and then disconnected. Guess we'll see. I'll update everyone with the 'solution' hopefully when I get back. Again, thanks all!

 

Thanks. We are looking forward to the solution.

 

Did you ever plug the dimmer in?

Something tells me the dealership is going to plug it in, if it works great.
If it doesn’t, the dimmer is bad, and diagnose why it is bad from there.
I don’t know why, but I have a feeling they are going to do what “most” people would do.
If it doesn’t work, it’s your money, charge you for a new part and diagnosis.

I’d most definitely tell them your concerns with why you don’t want to plug the dimmer in yourself.
That way, maybe, just maybe, they don’t damage a good dimmer.
The bad part about doing this, is they’ll likely charge a diagnostic fee.

Keep us updated

 

Well..got a call. The dimmer switch will cost 450 bucks for the part. The hazard warning light would need the whole unit replacing (the button. The clock. Etc.) The radio buttons they are not sure what it is. I told them to forget it. It was going to cost hundreds possibly a couple of thousand if new head unit was needed.

If they can't change a light bulb in a hazard warning switch I have no faith in them.
Will check to see if they've messed anything else up. If not will just try to fix myself. Tempted to just return vehicle for refund. Coat me 14000 dollars. For a fecked up vehicle.

Not impressed.

Will not be using this dealership for any further work on truck if I keep it. Probably use the local mechanic whom I trust . Think they're just trying to get rid of me .

Should I just return it ?

 

The Hazard lights operate off the dimmer.
As do some of the the radio Controls.
Look at the picture I posted above.

 

The hazard works fine. It's just not backlit. Same for the radio controls. Just can't see 'em at night
The dealership does not see a connection between the 3 issues.
I basically do not trust them and do not trust my recent purchase. What else is hidden ?

Much more knowledge on this forum than at the dealership.

 

I was referring to the bulb in the switch and the radio controls.
Not the actual lights themself.
If the dealership can’t see a connection, I would find a new dealership.
The connection between all the things you just listed are in the picture of post #22 above.

 

$450? You can buy used ones on ebay for $20 to $40. There’s some Voodoo, black magic weird shit going on inside the rheostat, but the basics of it are that there’s 2 circuits inside there. The instrument cluster and radio display side of it shunts the existing voltage off to ground. For all of the switch illumination, and radio buttons, the dimmer supplies a ground through a varying resistance. Improperly connected aftermarket stereos are known to blow the rheostat. Probably because they are supplying direct 12v directly to the shunt side of the rheostat.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...cat=0&_odkw=Tacoma+rheostat&_stpos=97477-4945


I’m gonna take a wild guess at the history of your truck. Somebody put in an aftermarket stereo using the aftermarket connectors that plug into the factory harness, hooked it up wrong and blew the rheostat. Then they unplugged the rheostat to get instrument lights and drove it that way. When they sold it, they yanked the aftermarket stereo and somebody stuck an OEM stereo in it. Then you bought it.

 

We think a lot alike! I had the very same impression from the start.

I feel pretty sure that a rheostat and plugging it back in will solve the most if not the entire issue.