Riddle me this Batman

So I'm leaning towards going with an amp for my system.
I'm looking at this amp, 6 ch amp.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13698605/JL-Audio-XD600-6v2.html?tp=78740

I plan on just running new wires, leaving the stock wiring intact.
So I'll need a LOC.

caveat that down the line, I'd like to add a sub and another separate amp.

So crutchfield recommended this LOC
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541LPAE4/PAC-LPA-E-4-LocPro-Advanced.html

My question is, for the "down the road", would I be better served with this LOC ?
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LCQ1B/AudioControl-LCQ-1-Black.html?tp=100807

They also linked this harness, but weren't 100% sure it would work, as they haven't tested anything on the 23's.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541LPHTY02/PAC-LPHTY02-LocPro-Advanced-T-Harness.html

So do I need a LOC that offers more channels than 4, if I'm going to be using a separate amp for the sub, or can I just split a channel and send it to the new amp?

 

what are you using more than 7 channels of amplification for?
are you going full-active 4-way?
what functionality do you require for a 4-channel LOC?
just looking to maintain fader?

i understand you're keeping the stock head unit, what are your goals other than that?

if you're interested in the eq functionality of the lcq-1, i would really recommend a DSP instead, though with the factory deck integration something similar to the jl FiX would be a good idea to re-eq the factory deck to a flat signal before going into the new equipment. but at the very least, i'd definitely suggest a DSP as most still accept a speaker level input the same as any LOC. and you're nearing the price of a fully-featured DSP that can be configured from your listening position instead of listening and then digging around and guessing at the knob settings.

 

I was going to amp each speaker.
Yeah, I 'd like to maintain the fader functionality.
I understand leveling out the signal before the amp, and a DSP would do that, I'm not sure (haven't looked into) DSP's. So I'd run one of my speakers (assuming front, since the rear have a trash signal from the stock HU, to the DSP, then from there to an amp, and out to speakers ??
I'm trying to figure out the best way to get better sound without throwing 2k at it.
The reason I was going to use a LOC was what I "assumed" was the best way to get a signal to the amp.
Sorry, I'm kind of ignorant about the best way to accomplish this at the best value for my money.
Also, thanks for responding. appreciate it.

 

Why not simplify a few things and go with the AudioControl D-6.1200? 6 channels, line level in, and as @soundman98 suggests, a DSP.

 

Thank you.
So I have a question. I see it has speaker inputs, as well as line level inputs. Would I need to run all the speaker wires to each input? Would I be better served with a LOC as well as this amp?

 

The amp has an LOC in it. To get music from the stock H/U you would have to run wire for each location to and from it. There’s no getting around the spaghetti if you keep the stock H/U. One step would be a harness that you could “T” into, allowing you to tap the speaker outs from the H/U, and run speed wire to the amp.

 

Gotcha.
So the stock TRD off road has 2 sets of wires, one for the rear door speakers, and the front, it goes from the HU up to the tweeters, then it's split to go to the tweeters and the front door speakers.
I'm assuming I'd be ok with just running the wires from the split, to the amp, then back. Can I just split the signal to go to the other input ie.. Tweeter, or would I be ok with just the 4 speaker inputs, and then go to use 6 outputs?

Edit:
it has wires for front and back, left and right. So a total of 4 sets of speaker wires.
Sorry, didn't mean to confuse

 

Well, there’s two options. A “T-harness” that you build, (ie. shop for what you need) and come off the speaker out behind the H/U with speed wire (8-wire bundle), or you spaghetti your butt off, and go from the dash tweets and rear speakers, then of course, you head right back to them. Me, I’d try to build something. Or, if you want, email www.autoharnesshouse.com , and get them to build a t-harness for you. I’ve never used them, but others have had good success.

*edit*. And yes, this is getting expensive. Isn’t car audio FUN!!

 

Thanks. Appreciate your help

 

Bite the bullet and get a fully integrated 5 or 6 channel amp with built in dsp.

Audio Control d 5.1300
Jlaudio VX 600
Audison AP 8.9
Memphis Vivbelle
Sony XM GS6dsp

for example…prices range from 500-1500

new wiring is easy, hardest part are the door rubber tubes, fish them through with a non-sharp tape or wire. Dont even need to do anything to stock wires except unplug.

 

Can anyone see any "issues" I may have going with the Sony https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158GS6DSP/Sony-XM-GS6DSP.html , and using a Kicker sub https://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker...oofer-enclosure-black/6367110.p?skuId=6367110

I realize that the sub says 7.7 inches which is too big for the back, but since it goes to a smaller depth at the top, I figured I could install it upside down

 

If you are going cheap this got much better reviews on crutchfield

JBLDSP4086 @ $440

…8 channels, so could use rear door speakers too…iit does require a PC to access the dsp via usb cable but gets way better reviews than the sony, but the bass wattage is anemic


+ 10” Sklar sub box for behind seat, no need to remove any plastic @ $135

or all in one powered sub under passenger or back seat would be easiest, like a kicker active hideaway for @ $400

With harness and wire gets you in right under $1k for respectable setup

https://www.skaraudio.com/products/...MIg_a75fCx_wIVTfDjBx3I-AzdEAQYAiABEgIJf_D_BwE

The audiocontrol unit is a slight step up in price but gets you the sub wattage, advanced dsp with app, then you could drop a passive into that sklar box and be g2g for a while, would put you around @ $1500 all in, this is what i would do if going to all the trouble, a good tune will be night and day.

 

Yeah sorry. Wish I could go full tilt, but VA disability pay is rather low.

 

The Sony is no doubt fine. But you need an amp to power that sub. As well, mounting it upside down is not how it works. The 7.7” can work, mine is 9” with sub grill. I have spacers and longer bolts up and down on my drivers’ side seat. Not ideal, but fully functional for me.

 

but can't the sony power the amp in bridged mode? If i were to run the tweeter and fronts off one set of channels, the rears on another set, then the sub bridged at 600rms

 

i started quoting, but feel it's better to go a different direction here. we're talking a lot of different options, costs, and variables when all i really understand is that you want an amp, and want to be cost-conscious about it. though i've got reservations that simply recommending any amp with the given info isn't in your best interest.

firstly, what gear are you planning on updating? i know the amp, and the sub, but what about speakers?
second, what are your goals?

with that, we an start to come to a better understanding of what you really need, and where to head.

for this post, i do have some general advice:
crutchfield is great if you need hand-holding for the entire process, and immediate fast-shipping. but if you're installing your own amp as some of the tone of this thread implies, you likely already have most of the knowledge they can offer, and you're burning extra money buying from them.
there's really only 3 reasons to buy from crutchfield. they're certified resellers, so factory warranty terms are applicable. they've got support staff available by phone/chat to help when you get stuck. if installing speakers/head unit, they include all the adapters needed.

but none of that stuff is really free. crutchfield is one of the most expensive places to get gear because of all those reasons. if you need any of those options, that extra cost can easily be justified. but if you know enough of what you're doing to be installing your own amp and running your own wires, all of the raw equipment and adapters can easily be purchased elsewhere for decent cost savings, depending on location, sometimes without things like the factory warranty, or a call-center for support. i completely understand having a goal, but also trying to do so within a specific budget, which is why i get a lot of my gear from places like sonic electronics, techronics, Amazon, and ebay. all of them have varying degrees of product support for DOA gear, but none of it has the factory warranty. but many times gear can be had for sometimes up to 60% less than crutchfields pricing because of those differences.

my vehicles run alpine pdx v9 amps. back when they were available, they sold on crutchfield for $1200. i've never paid more than $500 for one.

i'm also hesitant to recommend any DSP, as there's a difference between a DSP, and a factory-correcting DSP. the kicker key amps, or JL FiX are factory-correction DSP's. the audio control DSP/amp ZMan suggested, or a DSP like dayton audio's DSP408 are DSP's only, meaning that you have full control of the audio settings, but there's no factory integration option to alter the signal they're given. none of these options are bad, but have specific use-cases that used incorrectly can give a bad result.

 

The dsp tune is the correction, simply take measurements with a mic and app, and adjust accordingly. Seems like OP is proficient enough to do that. Had no idea there are factory vehicle-specific dsp correction presets in other units.

OP just give your total budget and one of these experts can suggest proper maxxed out setup.

We have to assume hes getting new speakers and subsequently will dsp tune bc why else drop bread to feed the cheap ass stock paper speakers? Do it all in one go, otherwise just get a powered mono sub to add and call it a day, no need for discrete channels.

 

I have https://www.kicker.com/47KSS690 in my fronts, and tweeters, with installed passive cross
The rears I have https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/r1675x2/

I'm leaning towards the Sony due to the price, but could put it off and run the audiocntrl once I save up for it.

 

I don't need perfect sound, just wanting better sound than what the stock sound gives. When I adjust the fader to full rear, with the new speakers, you can barely hear the sound.
And since I'm a disabled vet on a budget, I have to either go the cheaper route, or save up and get something nicer, but it'll take a bit to save up.

 

I’m sorry. I was on my phone, I shouldn’t have posted that. Yes, it will do 600w on the sub channel.

@soundman98 is right. You need to be clearer on goals, or we could throw gear at it all day, hoping something stuck.

You mentioned, not sure which post, that when you fade to the rear, you can barely hear it. Yup, welcome to the factory crippled headunit. Toyota, in their infinite wisdom, decided that “no one sits back there anyways, let’s make it barely audible.” I’m paraphrasing, but you get it. So I ask, what bugs you MOST about the factory stereo. We can make our cases’ for upgrading based on that.