Ride Rite Air Bag Install Trick

Just finished up installing the Ride Rites on my Taco Pro. Ran into the same issue that folks have been complaining about, the 4 bolts on each side for the top bracket are a PITA to get installed. Decided to install them off the truck and see if I could get the brackets in after the fact. Yes you can (though I don't know if you can do this without using the Daystar Cradles as you would have the bottom bracket hanging off and in the way). I installed all four bolts in the bracket and ran the nuts down to almost tight (so you could still move the bracket a bit). It takes a bit of patience, but the right angles and twist and the whole thing fits up in there. Installed the big 3/4 bolt to a loose fit and then finished tightening up the four upper hanger bracket bolts. Still a PITA to tighten them up as they leave next to no room between the two nuts on each side, but a few turns to snug things up and they were in! Fought with the first one for about an hour, took a break and when I went back to work it fell off which let me know it would fit. Hope this saves folks some frustration. Took less than 20 minutes to install the second side after I figured this out. If you have a very thin open end wrench it helps with those pesky top bolts. I had one lying around that had been ground down for something and it actually would fit on the nut.

 

Subbed. Thanks for the tips.

 

Thanks, good info

 

You are most welcome. Those top bolts can be a real PITA to get installed. Amazing how much easier it is doing it first. Now I want to call Firestone and see what if anything they say about the bracket not reaching the axle. Not like Toyota just changed to the thicker spring pack.

 

RKCRUZA, what do you mean by bracket not reaching the axle?

Jon

 

The bottom mount has a "Leg" that has a radius cut so that it will rest on the axle tube as a support. Seems this is left over from the old spring pack and Firestone has not re-designed it for the new thicker spring pack so you have a small gap between the support and the axle tube. Lots of pics on this site showing this (same for folks who have added an add a leaf or different spring pack). I thought of putting a small strip of an old Bed Liner (the thick tire type) on the axle tube to fill in the gap and give a bit of support, but have not done that yet. The Gap is like 3/16 or 1/4, not much. Seems some folks have contacted Firestone and they simply blow it off or say to add a piece if it bothers you.

 

This^^ X2 ...

might be getting these next month

 

Installed them this morning. Not bad, but like everyone else, the bolts and nuts are tough to access. I had my 18v impact and it was a life saver.

Jon

 

So, I liked the rear rake of my truck, and wanted a method to be able to level it if I wanted. After installing the ride rite bags, my truck sits about 1/4"-1/2" higher in the rear now with 5 psi in the bags. So, I don't know if the bags will stay on my truck. I will give it a week or so, and then make my decision.

Jon

 

Jon...put a shell on it and it will squat right back down again. Mine was a bit of a squat in the rear from the factory and a bit more with the shell. Or, mod some more and add a very short spacer in the front?

 

Not ready for that yet!

If I decide to go that route, I will go to a 4Runner trd pro. My dealer says they have a quicksand color 2016 on allocation.

Jon

 

Fiddled my way into another option. Pic is from beside the truck looking through empty fender well towards the driveshaft.

I was able to tighten the pair of pita bolts closest to the frame rail with a regular box end wrench and a regular ratchet and socket.

Notice all four pita bolts are started so the two upper bracket halves stay in alignment.

With the outer pair torqued i got under the truck to tughten the inner pair, then outside to check torque, back under to check torque, then start the big bolt, get the outboard clamp bracket tight, torque the big one and move on.

I used the big bolt as a block to get at the outboard pair of bolts on the first side
A cube cut from a 2x2 might work ok too.

 

Also, on the passenger side the airline MUST run along the frame to clear the exhaust, at least on my 15 v6.

However many time i read it i stil forgot. Once i had the pass side all bolted in i realized i was gonna have to turn the airvalve 90 degrees.

Rather than take it all back outi used a socket for an o2 sensor to twist the airvalve with the bag installed in the truck.

 

I am going to keep dropping what I learn in here for future seaech button users. Next time I am on my desktop PC Ill link to this thread from mu bukd thread as well.

Four hours after install i realized i had one leaky bag. 24 hours after install, i recognized one was leaking faster that the other.

I started with a tire valve tool, three bucks at napa. After running the schrader valves home i reinflated, found nothing with the soapy water spray bottle, and my leaks unchanged overnight. But my schrader valves werent driven home, dont skip this cheap easy step.

If you need a spray bottle, find the clothes irons at your local dept store...

So next i dropped the spare and slid under there again. My tube to push to connect (ptc) to tubing connections were fine, it was the threaded connection between bag and tubing on both sides.

On the pax side i used a slit sided socket for oxygen sensor (currently ten bucks at napa) to twist the elbow fitting right out. On the drivers side the same slit sided socket was too tall because of the bracket holding the brake lines. On the drivers side i alternated between channel locks and a small, maybe 12 inch, pjpe wrench to pull that elbow without having to undo any other bolts.

Now mind you, on install ihad toghtened both elbows an additional 360 degrees after they were pretty tight from having read a buch of install threada here.

I left about 1.5 inches of red tubing on both elbows. I put a 7/16 socket, 3/8 drive in my bench vise, threaded the red tubing in feom the nut side, grabbed the tubing with needle nose pliers. Took the slack out gently, pulled a little harder to depress the collar, and then pulled even a bit harder to snake that red tube right out of the connector in nothing flat.

Then i cleaned that red sealanr off the threads, wrapped on some teflon tape and put it back together.

For now it is holding. I am seriously looking forward to unwatching this thread.

 

I have found my elbow connectors -june 2015 purchase- are 1/8 inch np thread.

I found a line a home depot rated -95 to +200dF, 133psi at +70 dF. It is 1/4 od, 1/8 id. I also found some 1/8 mip to 1/8 hose barb connectors at HD, and some 1/8 fip to schrader valve doohickeys at napa.

If the fool bags keep leaking i am going to pull all the ptc connectors....

 

I've got these airbags in the garage but waiting until spring to install them. Hopefully the leaking isn't a common issue.

 

I've had a set on my 1st gen Tundra for 10+ years and on my Taco Pro for several months....no leaks on either of them.

 

Good to know, maybe Poindexter was a bit unlucky with his order.

 

I suspect once i have them working food they will last a good long while.

 

Yeah I would think so. A leak at one of the fitting points isn't really a big deal, just nuisance to have to go back and fix.