Road Noise from rear cab vents..?

To be honest and frank, nothing at all. I've Dynomat'd the back wall, used closed cell foam, tried larger door seals and adjusted the rear access cab door to close tighter, installed pipe insulation on the top and bottom of the bed between the cab and bed. In the end it still sounds like the rear door is open. I've essentially thrown in the towel on attempting to quiet the cab. My Ranger didn't make as much noise and my buddy's Colorado is much quieter than my Taco. Next time I'll buy a Tundra or an SUV.

 

And you have how many miles, on what tires?

 

18k miles, original Goodyear tires, 2016 TRD OF Access cab, auto, no mods done to the truck.

 

"no mods done to the truck."

there's ur problem

one consolation is plenty of equity when you do choose to bail to another make! and even more so if it were 4WD

 

Not to flame but Dynamat is an OK at best product.
Call Rammatt and speak to their sound proofing guy. You'll get better results with a better product and better how to advice... all at a reasonable price

 

Thanks, appreciate the lead. Cheers

 

turn up the music. problem solved.

 

Hi ; with continuing attemps at noise from vent issue ; I think Zinger asked if anyone tried blocking one of the vents and I tried the drivers side , being I heard most noise over my shoulder towards rear ; I stuff a piece of armaflex black foam pipe insulation on outside between bed and cab covering vent and only short test ride so far ,. seemed to show about a 50% reduction ; I'll observe again in am. on way to work ; cooler temps seem to be louder . John

 

Hi after second test ride in am. cooler temps with drivers side vent covered from outside with foam ; I'm still noticing some reduction , but less than with warmer temps. l'm still wondering what's the next try and are they worth the trouble for the gains ?

 

Hi Mike, I like this idea because I have road noise also I am trying to get rid of, I looked at my cab and bed and it looks like it has a bigger space, and its hard to tell from your pics but does the foam rest on that ledge? Also will it stay in place ? Also have you done anything with the vents or the inside, I thought about insulating the inside or close the vents off partially but taking the back off behind the seats look likea pain, I can't get those caps off where the bolts are behind. Any ideas on how to get them off without destroying them and nicking them up. Thanks Robert

 

Hi, Does the foam stay in place? I want to cover up the vents or something but its a pain to get at them. I wish there was a better way. I just worry about the foam fling away. Thanks Robert

 

Couple thing. I put the pipe wrap across the width of the truck at the bottom and at the top, wedged between the cab and truck bed. Used 3/4 foam insulation. Reduces some noise and defiantly won't fall out, it's wedged in good. Pulling the back wall off the truck is real easy so access to the vents is a snap. Best of luck y'all.

 

Thanks for the info, I thought that size would be to small but if it works on your I guess it will, I was thinking the hole size and not the size of the insulation. How did you get those covers off on the back of the walls that cover up the bolts without scratching or marking them up, what is your secret to doing so ? Thanks Robert

 

Same, pipe insulation is just stuffed in there.

 

Type the below in bold into You Tube, it might help you. I have an access cab so it's slightly different for me but you'll get the gist. Also threads on here re pulling the wall panel. I've pulled the real bulkhead wall of several times without any damage, the only risk is possible breaking a few of the red clips behind the panel that secure it to the actual bulkhead. Easily bought at Toyota.

Toyota Tacoma 2016 + How to remove back seats and storage compartments

 

Thanks, I did see those video's , I have access cab also. How did you get those little panels off that cover up bolts without scratching them up or damaging them, is there a special tool ? I don't want to start prying them off and break or mark them up ?, how did you do it. Thanks Robert

 

I used a mini hook and pick tool bought from Harbour Freight. Here's a pic. Left a tiny mark at the corner of each square cover but IMO it's fine. Your call obviously. I'm sure there are other options.

 

I tried the foam pipe insulation and it seemed to help but how the heck did you cover the vents. Its such a small space between the cab and bed, how did you get you hand or anything else down there. Whats your secret ? What did you use to get between them.

 

@Tacoma17Ham - I think he went from inside the cabin, not outside.


My 17 OR AC is pretty noisy coming especially coming from a long stint of German cars. About to order a load of CCF+MLV to try and quite this beast down. The noise is irritating enough I am actually considering selling after just 2 months of ownership.

So far I have added CLD tiles everywhere along the back wall and all doors plus foam over the cab vents (from the inside).Also, completely covering the flaps with tape or cardboard, etc, so they will not open is pointless. They do not block sound and are not opened by the HVAC (fresh air or recirc). The flaps open up when doors are shut, airbags go off, or you hit a bump in the road. But like I said, all of those are moot points because the flap itself doesn't defeat sound.

Going to HD right now to pick up some caulk to seal the door seals better and pick up a piece of foam to stick under the cab/bed.

Current dB reading on my iphone is 79dB on one app and 70dB on the other. Using two to get an 'free app' average - nothing is calibrated in my opinion.