Robmonster117's Little Monster Build Thread

Bump mounts are done up in cardboard. Going to pick up some steel sheet next week for everything in the front plus to make some rear frame box/ reinforcement. Paint marked everything for grinding.

Also picked up a set of bypasses that should be here this week. Front end is close to success. Motor is a different story…. The rabbit hole deepens

 

Front suspension is looking bitchen! What's the goal for the motor? Just freshen things up or doing a full rebuild?

 

Going to start with the heads, there are noticeable seeping leaks. They definitely need a rebuild and clean. We shall see what we find when we open them up though, it may get worse

 

Might as well do the head gasket when you're in there and have the block decked. If you need a guy to do the work, Kurt at Main Machine did a wonderful job on my full rebuild.

 

Oh yea I’d definitely pull them completely off and refresh valves, springs, studs, gaskets etc. I have a feeling I might need new piston rings which will lead me to just strip the entire block and do a 100% rebuild. Ill keep their name in mind and reach out if it comes to that

 

Remind me why did you pull the engine?

 

The initial reason was the driver side engine mount perch on the frame sheared off. There was no easy access(at least with my skills) to cut, grind and weld a new plate onto the perch. @Bonzen recommended that I box the perches in as-well for added strength to go along with the solid mounts.
The ability to look over the engine outside the truck is an added bonus

 

Going to try to post an update soon. Heres a teaser in the meantime

 

Oof. Whatta package. All of the suspension goodies

 

Also a key feature that I think would help others with their shock tower failures, even if they didn't want to run bypasses.

 

Pedal box mod for T100 Booster & 1 1/16” bore Master Cylinder

Im typing up a wrap-up on the LT build. Thats going to be a few days.

In the short term I really like how this turned out so Im sharing my results as a quick little write up.

Problem(s) 1: Mounting studs on MC too short & Booster rear shaft too long. Also I do not want to modify the booster

Solution:
1. Keep aluminum block spacer behind MC & cut booster shaft ~.52” off thread. This will keep the clevis in the correct position for brake pedal mating pin


Problem 2: Mounting studs too short to go through firewall and pedal box/ bracket

With the aluminum spacer and firewall I was left with about 15mm of thread barely poking through the firewall to use they came to a stop right before sticking through the pedal bracket.


My solution was to drill open the pedal bracket to fit a 1/2” hex standoff (M8x1.25 internal thread)
And weld washer to the base of the feet that pinch the Booster to the firewall.
1st I had to add welds to the bracket feet to strengthen them

2nd
Drill open and grind bores with a carbide burr

3. Weld washers to the feet. Make sure to check hole alignment w/ booster



Results: It’ll work. Final assembly will have loctite and drill holes and add some safety wire. I dont see these backing out but might as well. better safe than sorry

 

Very interesting that you had fitment problems with the booster. I had zero issues with mine outside of the fact threads that the pedal attaches to being too long. I opted to go without the aluminum spacer that comes on the factory one and remove the extra brake pedal linkage for a smoother throw.

 

Curious, Any pictures of your pedal mount? you drilled and mounted the clevis directly to the brake pedal is sound like? I'll keep/ try this setup to see how it feels when the rear brakes are done and make adjustments from there. I liked the fact that I could keep "stock" pedal components and positioning

 

I don't have any on hand. I'll get photos for you tomorrow. Clevis doesn't mount directly so you would need to weld the hole back up and drill a new one.

 

Totally didn't forget to get your photos yesterday.


PXL_20221111_042819130 by Cory Bechtold, on Flickr


PXL_20221111_042924964 by Cory Bechtold, on Flickr

 

Ha no worries. I see what you mean now.
as far as the slop in the linkages
Im going to turn some delrin spacers for the bolts and pins to take up the slack and eliminate that.

 

I'd be interested to see that. The slop was the reason I removed all of it in the first place.

 

Still lagging on the front end “summary of fuckery” but Im keeping busy:
SUA is underway- Full part out post will go up tomorrow but if anyones interested in any suspension bits or the axle lmk everything must go
-02 axle with e-locker 5.29s
-AP Expo Leafs
-Bilsteins 5100 good bushing & pressure- cheap AF
-Wheelers brakeline- free
-any stock brackets
-any stock brake components - minus e-brake cable

 

Smart Strip on the frame saves alot of flap discs and wire wheels