Rod knocking after pulling trailer up steep hill

I assume you checked all the pins in each connector? Working on my buddies Jeep and a bent pin caused an Issue. We bent it upon reassembly

 

We were really careful about the pins, the only ones we can't check without significant dissasembly is the other end of E9 where it goes into the top of the transmission, but it went in easy and locked. I guess maybe we should check it, but it's painful.

 

Is it possible that you pinched a harness during the removal and install of the engine? Maybe there is an unseen broken wire or 2.

 

in the service manual, look for this document. There are tons of codes that could cause the limp mode.


Also your tranny codes from previous posts are causing limp mode P0748 and P0778.
Same for 2wd and 4x4 tranny types
These 2 codes are on separate ECU connectors E11 and E12.
I would really look at the tranny cable again and run some testing. If testing from the tranny connector to ECU connectors (pin to pin) is good, then ECU is bad. Most likely on E9 connector side. E9 pin 23 feeds tranny pin 4 and 6

 

Thanks, will look around, our guy is going to try to get to the connector on the tranny end, has to disassemble some stuff to get in there, check pins and gunk getting in there. The scanner just showed up, hopefully this thing will work.

 

Here's the first tranny plug we could get to, there is some crud in there. We're going to clean it out.

 

you need to get to this connector

 

Seems that connector is facing straight up coming out the side of the tranny, difficult to get to without a sawzall through the floor or dropping the tranny.

 

Did you disconnect that connector when you pulled the engine out?

 

we cleaned both ends of the connectors as best we could, re-inserted them and it seems like with the new scanner the transmission codes are cleared! We still have a crank position sensor, but we were planning to replace that anyway, so maybe we're getting closer. Or the new scanner is lying. Will find out soon.

 

Definitely some good news. You are half way there to ASE certification

 

I know nothing, but also know lots of people claiming to be mechanics know less than I do - now THAT'S frightening

 

Yeah, this the time we live in... I've interacted with a few of those here... Keep up.

 

I get the same with some “electricians” I have worked with.

 

This is awesome…….great up see you are nearly there. You have the patience of a Saint.

 

I work with people that make that claim. I might be a mechanic, but there is always things to learn. This thread is a great learning experience.

I recently encountered a similar issue as yours with a coworkers ( not a mechanic ) 2015 Tacoma. It has been dealer service since new. He wanted a fellow mechanic to change the oil. When he did, he found lots of condensation and gunk under the filler cap. We looked deeper and in the oil filter, the oil looked like coffee, not oil. We are going to change the oil on a couple of quick intervals and hope there is no permanent damage. My trust in other people working on my vehicle is low, so I am happy doing my own work.

 

I know a guy who makes the oil change places show him the filter after each oil change so he can verify, that now seems like an amazing idea

Today we try to install the crank position sensor and remove the butt splice used before on the wire, going to solder an shrink sleeve that connection so we don't have to chase potential issues. I think I can solder it through the fender well - I hope.

 

I'm gonna say it once more, then let it go wishing you a soon and successful end to this saga.
I'd be outing the dealer in the thread title.
I can't begin to imagine how many folks are sitting in that showroom for hours, waiting on imaginary fluid flushes and filter changes.

BTW, have you driven it long enough since yesterday to at least assume the codes you cleared aren't coming back?
Best of luck again.

 

Okay, replaced the crank position sensor and removed the butt splices, replaced with soldering and shrink sleeve. One wire was loose when pulled on, so solved that problem.



Now it started right up, but then idled and dies, and will ALMOST run but then dies. Eventually we got it to run rough for around 7 minutes, but then stalls and gives these codes. It's still using the original ECU, not the replacement.




I no longer have a CPS fail code though. All the transmission codes seem to still be clear I assume this is because the computer has to re-learn the CPS value over time to satisfy the PID loop requirements in sensor querying, but don't know.

There is an option to put the ECU into re-learn mode, but it looks scary, should I try that or something else?

 

Do 3rd gens still have the fuel pump resistor behind the driver side head light? If so, check that thing before messing with the fuel pump. That might at least help with some of your issues hopefully