Rod knocking after pulling trailer up steep hill

Start looking at the live data while idling.
Look at vvti, fuel trims, fuel pressures, etc.

 

it barely idles for a few seconds, I guess I'll try to get some live data when that's happening.

 

Ha! No shit! I don’t even have a 3rd gen, I’m just here for the high drama of getting this sorted!

 

wow, so this truck is "that one kid"

I got some ad spam from the dealer about discounts on RAV4's or some such. I answered him to let him know I'm that one guy. So then...silence, you guessed it. Hi Ted if you read this!

 

This guy did some tests that might be relevant, although he doesn't fix the problem in the end (customer does their own work). But he grabbed some good data.


I think it has been asked, and maybe answered, but do you know the fully history of the motor? Is it possible someone had it apart and messed up the timing chain position? If all sensors are validated as good and the ECU is getting valid signals, then I would assume they are telling the truth.

Or, it's something super simple that has been overlooked. That's what I usually run into.

 

Talked to another mechanic who also thought if we could get it to idle long enough and drive it would probably learn the correct values and be fine. He thought there should be some idle relearn setting, but I didn't see one. We did a throttle relearn, but that's all I saw.

On my Land Cruiser, if you disconnect the battery and then reconnect, the thing barely idles without revving the throttle, but then it learns and 20 minutes later it runs fine. It would be nice if there's some version of that for this Taco.

 

can you possibly put the car back into limp mode and recheck the cam timing values? similar to when you were able to drive the truck for the first time before rectifying the trans connector incident. Im sure youve triple checked but are there any sensor connectors that you could have possibly plugged into the wrong sensors? ive been there done that. or it has to be another possibly dirty or debri fouled connector somewhere start looking at all the male pin terminals in the affected circuits for anything boogered. best of luck.

 

We disconnected the CPS and then it wouldn't even start. So I guess nope.

I guess there was still some code floating around about the immobilizer B279986, but if the key wasn't working the engine wouldn't even try to idle I'm guessing. Also, the door locks work with the proximity key.

I thought maybe we could trick it into running, even in limp mode, but maybe the limp mode was triggered by the tranny connector, and the CPS isn't enough to trigger a limp?

Friend said to bring it to someone like a dealer with a Toyota scanner and don't tell them anything besides "doesn't idle right" and let them figure it out. I figured whoever we brought it to would find out anyway, and generally being honest means you have less things to remember about the story you made up.

Tomorrow we plan to see if we can specifically set some values (can't remember if there's a submenu of a submenu for that on the Autel MP808BT). I want to set the idle RPM to 1000 and see if I can just get it to run long enough to relearn.

Also today, my 2015 Ram 2500 Cummins I used to pick up the engine spit out a shift solenoid code and started hard shifting, so if this Taco ever runs again I'll have something else to take apart.

 

Your scanner has Live data read under the same place where you see codes and ability to record. Turn the key on, start recording, wait for a few sec and then start the engine.
Does it die when you press the accelerator pedal? How fresh is the gas in the tank?

 

I sure hope you get this sorted. Thanks for bringing us along for the ride.

 

We added 5 gallons of clear gas (non-corn) just in case. Our current idea is to put the old ECU back in, see if it'll run, then maybe pull off the throttle position sensor to get it back into limp mode, at least prove that it can still run and look at the values, then pull it out of limp mode and compare the values.

Or set fire to the truck and call the insurance company. I'm mostly convinced that if we could get it to run it would relearn and probably run forever. Ish.

 

Okay, so it runs, barrrrrely, stays at about 500 RPM. Sets a couple codes. Here's how it runs:

https://youtu.be/HAfGpMIMCTA

Here's the codes it sets:



Here's some live data.





and some VVT timing shots.







It seems like I saw somewhere you can manually operate the timing solenoids and see if they freely move and don't stick advanced or some such. I wonder if there's a screen about those solenoids that I didn't get to.

I don't quite understand if the solenoids are inside the valve cover and the cam sensors just report position, or whether cam sensors also contain solenoid/linkage?

 

The weird thing is the cam sensors on the new motor looked different than the original ones off the blown motor. When we swapped the old sensors onto the donor motor it started to run, I wonder if there's some other VVT thing we're also supposed to swap off the original motor, don't know what they are though.

 

Are you sure you have the right engine?
This person had a similar issue after an engine swap and it turns out engines with a vacuum pump will not work on trucks without a vacuum pump due to a missing plug in the cam.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fs-complete-2gr-v6-engine-pnw.810636

 

Your low and high fuel pressure seems within normal range. If you turn the key and don't start the engine, can you see Low pressure getting to 450 -480 kpa?
You are misfiring. See which cylinders do.
You have something going on with you intakes cams. You can see that the target is 30, you have 56 and 59 (over advanced), therefore the code is set.
You may need to pull the valve covers to check timing marks and possibly swap cam gears

 

@Vlady yeah, I'm thinking something wrong with the cam train, otherwise I can't see why the cam sensors on the new motor would be different.

@Dm93 yes, there are two motors, one with vacuum and one without. This is a vacuum engine. The one without doesn't have a vacuum diaphragm on the rear of the cam.

 

I think you need to make sure the timing is set correctly.

 

The previous owner may have fiddled with timing (or taken something apart and cobbled it back...) in his efforts to get it to work...

 

@silverstr8p, check your low and high fuel pressure sensors. Here is the reference for the idle +