Rotor stuck on the hub

Well , an easy job can get hard as a truck ages..rotor is seized on the hub. should i be concerned about using a blow torch with the wheel bearing being so close. Ive been beating on this thing with no results. 08 4wd.75k miles

 

no! they are threaded, mine were stuck to, just thread the bolt in and it comes right off!

 

you mean the lugs ?

 

no, the rotor, look at it, there is a a threaded hole

 

Thank you!

 

skip to 150

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c17YAsJFBwk&feature=player_embedded

 

Thanks again. Success!

 

for the record...beating on it is not good for that bearing for sure

 

True if bearing is loose. If its at correct preload it won't make too much difference. Then again if hammering can damage bearing what would have happen when truck is going on the road over bumps.

 

For the Record that guy in the video has got to be one of the Highest functioning Crack Addicts I have ever seen. He was CRAZY FAST

 

easy... the blow would be cushioned by the tire and not be a direct metal on metal blow..look up brinneling. impact of any kind can and will ultimately ruin a bearing of any type

 

You shouldn't be using a metal hammer to begin with. A rubber mallet would be the proper tool for helping with rotor removal if jacking holes aren't available. If you don't have a rubber mallet, holding a 2x4 against the rotor and then using a metal hammer would do the trick.

Just a note, I would gob never seize onto the back of the new rotors. The new rotors I purchased did not have the jacking holes that the OEM ones had.

 

I dont know, it takes 20 ton press to push those bearings on the hub and they survive. I doubt anybody with 1 lb hammer can generate that kind of force. Yeah tire cushions the bumps but thats still 4000lb hitting over the wheel.
EDIT. BTW my 20 ton press splits rotor like butter.

 

I did twelve years as a flat rate VW/Mazda/Honda Tech and more times than not hit the face of the rotor to pop them loose very seldom did the jack holes get used. It is a common issue after a few years, I agree with a little never seize just don't put it on the wheel studs

 

There was actually a big debate thread as to whether or not never seize was safe to be used on the wheel studs. Got pretty heated at times. Overall, I'm with you, I don't put it on the studs although I don't believe that doing so would create an unsafe condition.

 

Ya just what I was taught. I try not to get involved in big debates, if I can help cool if not ok whatever to old to argue

 

I hear ya, it was very informative. I was always taught the same thing so I figure if I can help it, why introduce any kind of friction modifier to the bolts that hold on the wheels

 

what were the arguments? I'd put anti seize on the studs. retorque semiannually(or rotate tires twice a year) and you should be good. anti seize doesn't make the fasteners slippery to the point where it will undo istelf, it prevents them from seizing *gasp. if all the hardware is torqued to factory spec, you should be good

 

x2 I put anti size on lugs, torque them to 83 ft-lb but also check them every few hundred miles (as per Toyota manual which says check at 150 miles)

 

The argument is that it is a friction modifier so therefore it should not be put on the wheel studs. Honestly, the thread turned into a 'well, I've always done it this way' thread.

Personally, I put miles on fast enough where regular tire rotations are done long before the lugs seize tot he studs so I don't use it. That being said, when you torque a bolt, you're stretching the bolt a bit and you're relying on the bolt's elasticity to hold the nut in place so it shouldn't be an issue. Hell, they soak high strength bolts in oil