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Rotor turning or new ones

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Paulrv6, Jan 29, 2017.

  1. Jan 29, 2017 at 12:42 PM
    #1
    Paulrv6

    Paulrv6 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I will either buy new OEM rotors or have them turned. What is the min thickness before having them turned? I worry about the runout from their setup if they are not careful. I will measure them to check the thickness.
     
  2. Jan 29, 2017 at 1:09 PM
    #2
    Justanotherhemi

    Justanotherhemi Space Cowboy/Ninja

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    I recently had the OEM rotors cut or turned. According to my mechanic he will measure the rotors and anticipate if they will be to thin after the turning. Mine had very little wear & were not warped so they turned out fine.
     
  3. Jan 29, 2017 at 1:14 PM
    #3
    Styx586

    Styx586 Well-Known Member

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    IIRC the 2nd gen 6 lug rotors min thickness is 1.024". Normal machining on a non warped rotor will remove about .015-.020 so you'll want at least 1.045-1.050" before machining.
     
  4. Jan 29, 2017 at 1:50 PM
    #4
    evilcorvette

    evilcorvette Well-Known Member

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    Hope you can find somebody who even turns rotors anymore. Most auto shops dont do it anymore because rotors are so thin nowadays that there isnt enough metal to shave down and keep them in spec.
     
    Grey 2015 likes this.
  5. Jan 29, 2017 at 4:55 PM
    #5
    PackCon

    PackCon Well-Known Member

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    Why do you need them turned?
     
  6. Jan 29, 2017 at 6:37 PM
    #6
    kire

    kire Well-Known Member

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    New rotors are not that much money. So, when I did my brakes I replaced my warped old ones.
     
    OG_Tacoma likes this.
  7. Jan 29, 2017 at 6:47 PM
    #7
    KenLyns

    KenLyns 8.75" Third Member

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    New rotor is 28.0 mm thick. Min. limit is 26.0 mm. The shop needs to sand away any corrosion from the hat area before putting the rotor on the lathe.

    Of course you don't have to get OEM replacement rotors. There are good aftermarket upgrades available at reasonable prices: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/oem-vs-aftermarket-rotors.472337/#post-14268323
     
    REDdawn6 likes this.
  8. Jan 29, 2017 at 7:19 PM
    #8
    Styx586

    Styx586 Well-Known Member

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    Really the only valid reason to replace rotors is if they are under the minimum thickness spec or badly "hot spotted" you'll know if they're hot spotted or not by looking at them, hot spots will also cause vibrations. If you aren't experiencing vibration and they measure over spec, there's really no need for new ones unless of course you want to upgrade.
     
  9. Jan 29, 2017 at 7:22 PM
    #9
    Bishop84

    Bishop84 Well-Known Member

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    A "red neck" rule I use if it's pulsating under 50kph (30mph?) it's not worth machining. There's runout and thickness, but I won't even bother if it pulsates cold.

    I try to only use on-car-lathes on Tacos and Tundras to prevent any unwanted runout from the lathe process.

    Most rotors can go through 2 sets of pads before replacement, barring rust and overheating.
     
  10. Jan 30, 2017 at 4:12 PM
    #10
    Paulrv6

    Paulrv6 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    My truck has 44000 miles and the brakes just don't seem to stop like they use to and the pedal goes down further. That said I was going to change the pads and thought I should change the rotors (since they do have a wear ridge on both sides of the OD of the rotors). I still want to measure the thickness and as a minimum I will change out the front pads.
    Does anyone have the toyota P/N for these? Are there a heavy duty set of pads from the dealer for our truck and if so a P/N for these? I know there many aftermarket pads but I am just not interested. Thank you for the help.

    paul
     
  11. Jan 30, 2017 at 6:00 PM
    #11
    Smashing

    Smashing Well-Known Member

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    I haven't heard of anyone turning rotors in years. Last time I checked it was about half the price of new ones.
     
    cliffyk likes this.
  12. Jan 30, 2017 at 6:10 PM
    #12
    Pabloeeto

    Pabloeeto Well-Known Member

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    I bought the Duralast Gold Rotors and Duralast Gold pads, still great a year later. The general consensus on turning rotors now days is to just replace em.

    Screen Shot 2017-01-30 at 6.07.55 PM.jpg
     
  13. Jan 30, 2017 at 10:20 PM
    #13
    Styx586

    Styx586 Well-Known Member

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    If your pedal goes down further your drums/shoes may be a bit out of adjustment...
     
  14. Jan 30, 2017 at 10:29 PM
    #14
    ABA180

    ABA180 It burns when I pee....

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    Easier to just toss em. Cheap enough as I see it..especially in a colder climate
     
  15. Jan 30, 2017 at 10:31 PM
    #15
    ZachPrerunner

    ZachPrerunner Sometimes she goes, sometimes it doesn’t

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    Nothing compares to OEM when it comes to brakes. Unless you install some Wilwoods or Brembos. Aftermarkets just don't last nearly as long as OEM. If you don't mind changing them out often, it'll be just fine. I personally don't, so I want the maximum life out of my pads.
     
  16. Jan 30, 2017 at 11:06 PM
    #16
    PapaBear

    PapaBear Never test how deep the water is with both feet.

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    ran my stock rotors for 80k+ miles before replacing, remachined 3 times. Multiple shops around me do resurfacing for $15 a rotor, either on vehicle or off, must be different around you but the stock rotors lasted me quite a while. Just replaced the whole front with EBC, USR rotors, 7000 greenstuff pads, all new hardware. After I did the 500mile break in period with the new brakes and adjusted them, they feel as good or better when pulling off the lot back in 08. Spent $650 for front and rear combined but it's more if you dont install yourself. Greenstuff pads are oem pad quality, yellow stuff feel a little tighter. I would buy a quality kit, spend the money now so you dont have to spend it later.
     

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