Rotors warping while towing

So I had to get a different boat trailer for bass boat and now when I tow my rotors get warped and I get the wobble when I hit the brakes now. I have went through three sets of rotors and it happens after I tow. Trailer is heavier than last one but still not over towing capacity of 2013 Tacoma. Never really had to slam brakes either. Trailer has surge brakes. Is there anything I can do to truck to stop this, like I see people have upgraded brakes to Tundra brakes. Any suggestions for this.
Thanks

 

Up grade to ceramic pads?

 

Aftermarket rotors and pads?

 

Has to be. Unless he's getting them real hot and submerging the front-end at the ramp.

I'd try changing brands. whatever those rotors are, ain't working.

 

After coming to a stop, if level can try taking foot off brake. Or try e-brake. Gets the pads off the rotors. Won't necessarily stop it but helps.

 

Modify trailer to use electric brakes.
Be eager to downshift and use engine braking.

Can't use Tundra brakes because the Tundra is 5-lug. You can upgrade to 5th gen 4Runner brakes, which require 17" wheels and results in worse pedal feel.

 

Buy a torque wrench and ensure the trucks lugs nuts are torqued properly

 

I am not familiar with surge brakes or if they are adjustable; I would check that that brake system is functioning properly.
https://www.etrailer.com/question-7858.html

 

OEM pads and rotors should not be a problem unless you ride the brakes, have failing front wheel bearings, or have sticking calipers as no mileage on your post.

Look in the Towing section for many opinions:
The Tacoma Towing Bible | Tacoma World

How heavy a rig do you have back there. Front rotors should never get submerged with a normal boat trailer setup unless launching off a beach in Australia.
So I switched to front Powerstop slotted/drilled rotors and Z36 pads when towing my 5500 lb 26 ft trailer then a 3000 lb boat and never had any issues after that. Again many opinions on brands.

 

So they are aftermarket after the OEM ones warped originally.
I never submerge the front brakes in the water.
After last swap we used a torque wrench to put lug nuts on.
My Tacoma is 5 lug.
Boat and trailer I guess are about 4500+ pounds together.

 

I didn't have issue with original boat trailer, o ly started when I got new trailer after insurance and it weighs more

 

Semi-metallic or “Metallic” are usually a better choice for towing.
They withstand heat better, and at the same time help dissipate heat.

You can do you own research and see what’s best for you.
Brake threads are like oil threads. We all have our own opinions.

If you do choose to go metallic. Your wheels will get brake dust on them much more often and faster.
It’s a trade off I suppose.

FWIW, most of the time. The rotor isn’t warped.
It’s pad material on/in the rotor. Or uneven rotor wear.

Ceramic pads are more for convenience.
95% of the time. I use ceramic.
Because they don’t tend to develop a squeal and are cleaner.
However, they do wear the rotor faster, but that doesn’t bother me.
I always replace rotors with pads.

 

How do you have a 5 lug TRD OffRoad? I'm pretty sure those only come in 6 lug. 5 lugs are typically base regular cabs, pre-runners and 4x4 trucks are 6 lug.
If you do indeed have a 5 lug your well over the tow rating of 3500# for those trucks, only v6 trucks with the tow package are rated for 6300-6500#
In either case you need to make sure your trailer brakes are working properly as they should be doing a significant portion of the braking on a trailer of that size.

 

I missed that part.
I hope he didn’t get took with a sticker.
That’s happening more and more these days.

Also, I’ve never checked surge brakes.
I would assume there is a way. But you’ll have to get around the spring tension.

 

I had my stock rotors get warped towards the end of last year, before I hit 100K miles and less than 50K miles on TRD pads. Didn't tow any before, I swapped the rotors with new OEM ones and got some Stoptech sport brake pads at the beginning of this year, and then started towing a light trailer and a 4 wheeler no more than 2x or 3x a month. My brakes got warped towards the middle of the year, and have no idea why because I don't think I slam on the brakes often.

 

There should be either a reversing solenoid (the 5th pin on a 5-flat connector) that electrically locks out the brakes when you back up, and/or a manual backing pin you insert that locks the surge brakes from engaging mechanically when you back up. If you don't use either of those, it should apply the brakes as you try to back up, especially if you were backing uphill.

 

Too much load on a 5 lug if you go too far or too much stopping. Way over the truck rating

Too much brake riding by the driver is a common cause.

The pulsation is pad material on the rotor. Clean it off and properly bed new pads. Even track cars that can make rotors glow rarely warp them. It's a slab of cast iron.

 

Adjust your trailer brakes properly or upgrade to electric brakes on the trailer. That stated, 5lugger towing a 4500lb boat... good lord.

 

Pictures of this 2013 Tacoma TRD Off-road 5-lug??!

 

If OP is really driving a 5 lug, then so much this ^

I had to look for my own curiosity, since I always think of 5 lugs as a (RWD, yeah, I know...) Camry with a bed... apparently a similar era Camry has front rotors that are both thicker & larger diameter. Oof.