Rough idle and fluctuations

Open the hood , set parking brake , pop clutch ,(peak through the opening at back of hood while sitting in the drivers seat )see what moves,I’ve done that on many different cars when alone .It may not be the safest or most scientific but it works.

 

You watch Vice grip too lol

 

I do, but this advice predates that by at least a decade lol. Been using seafoam for years. I learned its benefits back when I had carbed motorcycles.

 

This.

For additional safety but still not the safest, chock the wheels, keep your toe on the brake, blip the accelerator with your heel, and slightly engage the clutch. You can pop it but usually a little engagement will be enough to see any rotation or lateral movement.

 

I have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma and it is ideling at almost 2000 Rpm After it's warmed up does anyone have any idea why it is idling so high?

 

Could be many things. Do you have any CELs?

Throttle body / plate dirty and/or not closing, TPS needs adjustment, MAF cleaning, IAC.

 

What is CELs

 

Check Engine Light

CTS

 

Oh ok no I have no check lights on at all and everything else looks good and working properly

 

Update for original post:
After checking the motor mounts as suggested, the engine seems to torque each way a very visible amount. After getting under and prying the trans mount the rubber is entirely separated from the top of the bracket.
I am going to replace the motor mounts and trans mount here and I believe this should solve my issue.

I will confirm but it seems to be a combo of motor mounts, and a defective AC belt tensioner.

Should get around to replacing these this week and will post updates for any future searchers.

@Chfite
I had this issue a while back, cleaned the IAC and TB (which was VERY dirty) and sprayed the MAF. Reset the computer by disconnecting the battery and after about a week of driving I started idling at the appropriate ~750.
Id start there since this is a nearly free check, just some throttle body cleaner and maf cleaner. Note: dont use anything other than MAF cleaner on the MAF.

Edit: Also if you have a scan tool that supplies live data, check the temp of the cooling system, a buddy of mine had the issue and was caused by a faulty thermostat if I remember correctly

 

OP, I just did my motor mounts and trans mounts a couple months back and was bummed to find out that OEM trans mounts are discontinued and entirely out of stock nation wide for V6, MT trucks. I foolishly bought a chincey RockAuto trans mount instead (at least it was only $5 lol).

Turns out there's one made by 4x innovations for $113 that looks as robust or even moreso than the OEM one that lasted me 286k miles. Thought I'd let you know to save you the trouble.

 

@Red_03Taco
Dealership was able to order the motor mounts for v6 MT and I did order that 4x innovations one last week.
Id give them a call again if you wanted to replace the motor mounts

 

Thankfully I did use new OEM motor mounts, but soon I'll get the 4innovations trans mount and yank out the cheapsie one I've got on there currently

 

Ah perfect! Was it a straightforward job? Only thing I am a bit hesitant to do is to lift the motor by the oil pan....

 

Yea very straightforward. It was a tad tough getting my large hands in to get the old mounts out and new mounts in, but a friend helped me and he has little dainty hands lol.

I too was leary of lifting the engine from the oil pan, but that part went totally fine (I put a 4x4 block of wood under the oil pan, and no other rubber or cushioning between that and the jack).

One thing to keep in mind when lifting the engine is that your fan blade will hit the fan shroud, so it helps to have a buddy operate the jack while you gently pry the fan blade out from under the shroud and guide it up (no big deal) as the engine moves upward.

If you haven't watched Timmy the Toolman's video on this job, I'd highly recommend doing so, just to see all this in action.

 

wonderful thanks for the heads up. Ill definitely give it a thorough watch.

 

Well had a lot happen in personal life and didnt get around to swapping these out till last weekend. I got them changed out and the old ones, both the transmission and engine mounts had very degraded rubber, and the transmission mount was completely separated from the rubber.
Its been a few days of driving and now I am experience that roughness but only at idle ~750 rpm. Driving it feels fine, just idling it it rough.
Ive seen online some people have said this can go away but I have a tough time reasoning that?
Did this happen to you @Red_03Taco ?

 

still have a rough idle when warmed up only at 750. Cant seem to find the culprit, still no CEL...

 

Looks like you've covered most of the bases.
Have you checked your fuel pressure?
Have you replaced the coil packs?
Did you use these type of plugs? https://amzn.to/3usL4T5

 

I have not tested the fuel pressure but I do have a pressure tester kit en route, should get delivered tomorrow. No to the coil packs since I was looking for a way to diagnose. Been replacing parts that havent changed anything so wanted to confirm before buying another. Ideas?
I used those types of plugs got them straight from the dealership since they were only $2 each, way cheaper than I have found elsewhere.

Wouldnt a coil pack cause trouble when driving as well, not only at idle?.

Ive also been thinking a bad catalytic converter potentially?