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Rough Idling - No power in low RPM's – Stalls and Dies pO301 code on #1 & #4

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by MustBmoven, Aug 9, 2010.

  1. Aug 9, 2010 at 7:19 PM
    #1
    MustBmoven

    MustBmoven [OP] New Member

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    2000 4X4 - Tac. Manual Trans 2.7L No-cal-em
    2000 4X4 TAC_2.7L _Manual Trans_ No Cal Emissions

    Ran like a champ up until about 2weeks ago; Idle change was the first thing I noticed - decreased to 750 then progressively ( over 2-3 days), to flux between 750 down to as low as 500 and dies at a stop. Had the Code read came up p0301__Hard to get off at starts have to rev. higher than use to. Finally, was 5 blocks away from destination, the only way I could seem to get any power was if I floored it and sort of pushed through the hesitation in low RPM's. By the time I got it to the destination, it would barely stay running without stalling (normal 50 mile round-trip commute Phx. AZ.)


    1st How is the timing adjusted on a 2.7L? I see what I think are timing marks; but where are the adjustments?

    2nd anyone know how to check the Fuel Injectors, or Mass flow, what to look for on/in a high mileage system (191,650 miles).

    Replaced with Parts from OEM over 8.7-8.9:
    EGR Valve seals and Vac. Valve
    Ign. Coils
    Spark Plugs
    SP-Wire Set

    Any help appreciated !

    Thanks,

    MustBmoven
    :(
     
  2. Aug 9, 2010 at 7:29 PM
    #2
    larryde09

    larryde09 Well-Known Member

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    K&N Intake, Magnaflow Cat-back Exhaust, Altezza Tail Lights, Pop&Lock Tailgate Lock, Extang Trifecta Tonneau Cover, PIAA foglights with stock switch, DrawTite Hitch, OBX Shift Knob, Hood Protector, Vent Visors, DIY step bars/sliders/running boards, DIY Bed Lights, DIY Running Board/Ground Lights, DIY Tailgate Electrical Box (12V socket, voltage and current gauges), DIY Internal Lighting (coming soon), Aftermarket switches in stock dash blanks, Sony Head Unit, Illuminated 4x4 switch mod
    My first guess would have been a lean misfire or bad plug, but it you already changed the plugs and wires. Did the 2000's have a distributor or coil-on-plug? If you have a distributor maybe you need to replace the cap and rotor button, or there could be water in it.

    Not sure what the codes are. Some other thoughts: could be a bad injector or a bad piston seal.
     
  3. Aug 9, 2010 at 7:49 PM
    #3
    IamTacO

    IamTacO red balls got me!

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    QC az
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    how about fuel pump or filter? nasty looking throttle body??

    not sure about the timing, but the maf reads a voltage. check for the obvious vacuum leaks too. should you clean your maf, use the right type of spray(checkers or autozone should point you to the right one) and its very important when cleaning the maf, you do not spray it directly with a cleaner. its a very brittle wire. spray the sides and let it drip onto the wire. heard plenty of horror stories of people get in to it a little too much i guess and ruining it

    typically fuel injectors are check to flowing them to see how much cc they allow. ie. if you have a 550 injector but its flowing less than 540 or so, then it could be clogged. also, you can try to swap injectors to cylinders without the misfire to see if the code moves too
     
  4. Aug 9, 2010 at 9:54 PM
    #4
    MustBmoven

    MustBmoven [OP] New Member

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    Thanks Guys !!

    - to Larryde09 I have a coil-on-plug I believe, and have replaced those too; ie the ign.coils are these the same things?

    - to IamTacO the fuel pump and filter was replaced August 2008
    - the throttle body does need to be cleaned; but the MAF sounds like a next target too.

    Vac lines will be reviewed again to be eliminated as source

    Thanks Again,
    Barry
     
  5. Aug 9, 2010 at 10:01 PM
    #5
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    Just searching on google I come up with p0301= cylinder one missfire.

    Sounds like you have already replaced most of the ignition. A bad fuel pump usually will at least allow the motor to idle smooth.

    I think you need to check the compression. We had a 2.4L tacoma at work that had a burned valve. The very first symptom was rough idle. Can't remember what year the truck was, probably an 01 or 02 I have heard there were some years with soft valves that retreated into the valve seats to the point where there was no longer any valve clearance.

    Hope I am wrong, but I do think you need to start with the basics before spending more money on parts. Good luck.
     
  6. Aug 10, 2010 at 5:20 AM
    #6
    larryde09

    larryde09 Well-Known Member

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    K&N Intake, Magnaflow Cat-back Exhaust, Altezza Tail Lights, Pop&Lock Tailgate Lock, Extang Trifecta Tonneau Cover, PIAA foglights with stock switch, DrawTite Hitch, OBX Shift Knob, Hood Protector, Vent Visors, DIY step bars/sliders/running boards, DIY Bed Lights, DIY Running Board/Ground Lights, DIY Tailgate Electrical Box (12V socket, voltage and current gauges), DIY Internal Lighting (coming soon), Aftermarket switches in stock dash blanks, Sony Head Unit, Illuminated 4x4 switch mod
    x2....figured the code would be a misfire...I agree, since the ignition has been replaced, start checking fuel supply and compression. Valves, piston rings, or damaged engine components can get expensive. Agree that swapping out a good injector is a good place to start.

    To respond to the OP: If you don't have a large spark plug cables and a distributor, you probably have coil-on-plug. Each plug has its own smaller coil inside the cable which is evident by a large module that sits on top of the plug...big enough to grab onto and pull the cable off the plug.
     
  7. Aug 10, 2010 at 5:42 AM
    #7
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is gooder 'en chicken Moderator

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    He has a Non-Cali truck. He will have two coil packs on the front left of the motor.

    OP: The timing on the 3rz is controlled by the ECU. It uses signals from the crankshaft sensor and the cam shaft sensor. A P0301 can be a tricky code to diagnose. It could be a number of things. You have already changed the ignition system for the most part. I would suggest the following:

    • Clean the MAF with MAF cleaner. Make sure it is unplugged and completely dry before installing. FYI- the screws can be a PITA to remove.
    • Clean the throttle body and IAC with a toothbrush and Seafoam.
    If that doesn't work, I would progress to the compression test on the cylinders.

    http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repair_Manual/03tacoma/di/eg2rzfe3/cip0300p.pdf
     
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