RSI Smart Cap

Went shopping for 2”x8”x8” boards today at Home Depot, loaded the cart with 12 boards, checked out and hauled it to parking lot ready to load up the Taco. All six locks were frozen, I almost had a panic attack, stuck with all this wood in 14 degree weather.
Luckily the Depot now has an automotive section and they carry the PB Blaster deicer spray, it was a five minute wait for the stuff to work unlocked all six of the RSI locks, loaded the truck and we were on our way home.
These locks are horrible, however, can’t wait to receive the rubber latch covers from Mike’s Custom Toys.

@MikeScustomtoys


https://www.tacomaworld.com/members/mikes-custom-toys.222593/

 

My version of the tnutz rack. Total cost was under $200 for the 5 bars, end caps, joining plates, etc. The goal was to have the cap rack perfectly level with the Prinsu rack, and not use any corner brackets (I just don't like the look). The biggest challenge was finding the right joining hardware to make the 1x2 bars compatible with the Smartcap channels. As always, thanks for all the great ideas

I used spacers to get it level with the Prinsu (1ea 1x2 aluminum joining plate and 1ea 1x2 abs end cap. Total thickness is 5/16"):


Nice and level with the Prinsu:


As most of you know, the Smartcap rails get narrower towards the rear. I ordered 5 different length bars so that there's equal overhang from the rack's top rails, and equal clearance from the gullwing doors at each bar. There's plenty of room to go even a touch longer on the bars:


Access holes for joining hardware. You can order the bars with pre-drilled holes, or do it yourself. If you order the machining you better have the right lengths calculated, or else they won't line up properly (I 3d-printed a jig and did it myself). I used M6x20 bolts, and M6 channel nuts. I couldn't find the right channel nuts, so i had to get some M6 4040 nuts and take them down on the belt sander to fit. There's probably a better option out there for this, it was probably the biggest pita of the whole endeavor:


Far from an off-the-shelf, bolt-on solution, but I like how it turned out.

 

Thanks just did it yesterday!

For others curious of the exact how-to: it's not as easy as simply sliding the rubber block in, particularly solo. Still had to lift the cap up a bit. Couple minutes of "wtf were those tacomaworld guys talking about I can't slide it in" later, I figured it out:
- loosen all clamps
- get close to the clamp you're working on
- go on back, lift cap up with your leg an inch
- slide rubber block in, it'll sit between the gasket and clamp bolt.
- do for all eight then tighten clamps back. Clamps will still have a finger space left between it and the block. For me at least.

 

My bad. Thank you for pointing me to these rules in a friendly way. I read them and I totally understand the need for such rules. These forums would become pretty meaningless if everyone was just throwing up gear for sale without any conditions.

The reality is that I am not going to post 50 messages to the forum - or it may take 5 years - yet I have something that I feel is valuable to the community and specifically to the members of this Smartcap thread.

I am willing to give this toolbox away for free if someone can come pick it up. It seems like such a niche thing to sell I'm not really sure where else to post. Maybe the fact that I'm offering it for free warrants an exception? I'll let you all decide and delete this post if you feel it's best for the thread/community.

 

where and when can we get these latch covers?
I’ve been reading some tips from the GFC and some people use a torch lighter to thaw the locks. They appear to be equally as crappy as these RSI

 

I am really close to pulling the trigger on an EVOa Smartcap for my '21 DCLB. I have one question and I haven't read anything about it...Has anyone had any issues with condensation inside of the Smartcap? I use my truck as a pest control work truck and water is a big no no, so any help regarding condensation would be much appreciated!

 

Has anyone heard of these new locks yet? I haven’t been in the forum in a bit.

 

I’m having this issue as well. should I take the lock apart and clean it? It sticks when I lock it and sometimes won’t turn for me to unlock it. I thought new locks were being released?

 

They sit on top of the bed rail so leaks can happen. They also will produce condensation, not always it’s conditional, but I’m sure this could be mitigated with cloth and magnets.

 

I sprayed some graphite lube in mine when I first put it on. It was definitely sticky initially but after the lubing it's been fine for over a year. Sprayed the cylinders, sprayed the key and worked each one for about a minute. I've been in ~20 degree to 110 and never had an issue.

It got to 30 here the other night and I came out to see a layer of ice on my locks. Just for shits I hit them both and they still popped without issue and no water in the back. It doesn't get so cold here so it's not something that ever concerned me but y'all must be somewhere it dumps rain and you are in and out of the cap a lot, then the rain water freezes overnight?

 

Snow will end up packed into them just from brushing them off. Above about 20 the sun can melt snow and it can get into them.

The lock core can freeze. The little lever you push can get ice behind it and get stuck (or snow packed in), and water can end up in the back and freeze.

Does not happen to all of them. Working grease in did not solve it. However, when I pulled the locks to install covers I made sure to dry them out well, pulled the cylinders and packed with synthetic grease. Below -50 the grease will freeze the locks, but being in temperate Anchorage I don't really see that kind of cold unless traveling.


So far the covers are working well.

 

yeah, 30 degrees = surface frost, but nothing is really going to be frozen. in cold climates, sustained cold temps are just a different animal. it doesn't take some kind of "perfect storm" of rain followed by a surprise freeze.

 

These load bars fit the SmartCap? I’m needing a set of load bars. RSIs is backordered. Let me know if you have a set for sale!

 

Are you referring to the lock component covers made by mike? How do I get a set?
Also, how do the locks come apart? Thanks

 

Any chance you have a parts list for someone willing to tackle this themselves? Perhaps even an updated lengths list with new lengths you would go with now if you did it over again?
My biggest worry is the bit between the bars and the cap itself, and how to configure that.

Thank you!

 

I bought my cap from Top Notch Accessories, so got the covers through them. From the pictures they look to be the same as Mike's. I would give Mike's or Top Notch a call, both have websites that list their numbers.

There is a small, spring loaded tab on the inside of the core.

-Put your key in the lock, rotate it about 1/4 turn to give beter access to the tab.
-Use a small flathead to push the tab in.
-Slide the core out.
-Keep the key in the core so as not to loose any wafers or springs.
-Pack with synthetic grease (use something designed not to attract dirt, weapons grease like M-Pro 7 or XF-7 should work well and both have very broad temperature ranges).
-Depress tab and reinsert the core.

 

We sell them, The next batch is to arrive after the 1st.

 

Yes we still have the front runner load bar sets available that work with the smart caps

 

Smartcap is working on new locks that allow the user to unlock them from the exterior and the interior. These will be an available for sale directly through Smartcap for the forseeable future.

As far as the lock sticking, a bit of dry lubricant normally does the trick. If there is debris inside, cleaning it couldn't hurt. If the issues persists, the locks are under warranty and you can submit a warranty request.

https://www.na.rsismartcap.com/warranty

 

Second Gen caps have unfortunately moved to the right. We're still waiting to receive an updated ETA, but it will definitely be next year. PM or call with any other questions or concerns. Thanks!