RSI Smart Cap

DCLB, Not not at all. I first thought it would be an issue, but with DC it gives you a wide range of visuals. I have a Freeway exit that dumps you into the left lane of a three-lane access road. It was a huge issue with my cargo van, but not with the double cab.

 

There is a spot at the bottom of this page where you will find links to many of the products spoken about on this forum, including the size of the bolt/eyelets you are looking for. Just in case you did not want to go sifting through many pages to find that answer : )
It helped me a lot because I had the same questions

 

It’s an M8 thread and these fit there:
Eye Bolts: Amazon P/N B07G212F6H -- ~$13 for (6)

 

Shit I always thought that was spam lmfao

 

YASSSSSSSS

 

Another question here....do you think you could mount traction boards to the molle panels in the EVOa? Thinking in advance that one side would be recovery gear and the other would be things like fire extinguishers, first aid kit etc?

 

Depends on which traction boards you have. The Actiontrax I have are too long which means Maxtrax are going to be too long as well.

 

I'm waiting for someone to come out with a Molle panel for the roof and I might think about mounting mine there but also not sure I want to hit my head on the treads of my traction boards.

I'd suggest doing this as I went with this and am happy with it:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/maxtrax-and-actiontrac-bed-mount-for-3rd-gen-tacomas.649875/

 

That looks great...can you reach them from the side window?

 

I can.

 

My EVOa just got delivered today....can't wait to get it on. I won't have time until hopefully Monday ...gonna be a long weekend...

 

Fill the cooler, invite buddies over. Swivel pad vise grips and blue painters tape helped. I had a small woodblock cut from the wooden surround of the cap that came in handy and a big mallet (tapping roof into the side panel while holding with my knees). Solo assembly sucked, so a couple of buddies.

Side panels take time to get inserted. Tap tap tap tap, back and forth up and down the panel.

Panels are in heavy plastic sleeves. Lift and slide the panel out, roll, and knot on end—giant trash bag for styrofoam (box with). Layers of cardboard will save your knees. I keep flat sheets for when changing oil, which helps keep the floor clean.

The photo has wood scraps for the swivel pads to prevent scratching, blue tap helped keep the end panel in place when starting clips as it was getting a clip-in, wiggle side panel, next clip, other side, wiggle, install, back. Four clips to hold the roof panel, then one at a time to start the side panel. Cardboard saves your knees.

When you get stuck and frustrated, take a break but don't skip a clip take your time.
Oh makes me appreciate I didn't skip leg day (lots of squats and burpees) at the gym.

 

How are people cleaning the back of the truck cab and SmartCap?

 

currently im using a pressure washer with foam cannon to spray between the two and rinsing after the soap has had time to dwell, i plan on getting a thin microfiber mitt on a flexible handle to actually scrub the two as needed. Currently the pressure washer and foam cannon have been doing a pretty decent job

 

This is exactly what I do, wash it with the same soap/mitt that I use on the rest of the truck. Pressure washer and foam cannon were game changers on how I wash and maintain my vehicles.

For the top of the cap, I just drop the tailgate and reach what I can, stand on the slider or top of the rear tire if need be, same as how I reach the top of the cab, hood, and windshield.

Adding a 2.5 inch lift at the same time as the installing the cap probably made washing more obnoxious than anything else (reaching the hood and windshield).

*edit
After re-reading the original question and other posters comment, I realize they are talking about specifically in between the truck cab and cap. So far this has been a non issue, but I was concerned about it before install since unlike the option on some fiberglass shells, the windows are not removeable.

If it every became a real issue or something got back there, 6 bolts on the bed rails and the cap slides forward/back super easy I could get in there that way if need be.

 

Took the EVOa out for a trial run this weekend! As expected some condensation on the inside when closed up but will be making a magnetic bug net to help leave the tailgate window open.

 

Installing my cap today. Is this small gap suppose to be here or should the side panel meet flush to the top when you assemble?

I tried holding the panel vertical and taping with my hand but doesnt seem like the side panel wants to go in anymore.

 

Make sure the tabs are started and tap with a rubber dead blow hammer

 

FYI - driving with the rear window open will wear out the struts much faster than normal

 

I’m guessing they want it open to sleep and reduce condensation at night...