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Running hot, please help

Discussion in '4 Cylinder' started by dirttrax, Jul 27, 2010.

  1. Jul 27, 2010 at 9:38 PM
    #1
    dirttrax

    dirttrax [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Its a 95 tacoma four wheel drive, four cylinder. It has new water pump, thermostat, radiator cap and had the cooling sytem flushed. Did a compression check and all four cylinders hit 150 and didnt bleed off in 15 min a peice. funny thing is It takes the truck about 45 min to start getting hot, I can drive it around town, back and forth to the store and such and it never runs over half way, but when I start to work I drive an hour and about 45 min into the drive it gets hot all of a sudden, and thats just in the day time, when im coming home it never gets hot. And i mean it gets hot like have to pull over cuz its headed for the red, but under half way on the way home. I know its cooler at night but as hot as it gets in the day I would think it would still get at least warm at night.

    Anyways im confused and wondering if anybody had any ideas before i tear into the motor to check gasket,block and head.
     
  2. Jul 27, 2010 at 9:39 PM
    #2
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    FlimFlubberJAM
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    Flush the cooling system, and check the fan clutch.
     
  3. Jul 27, 2010 at 9:39 PM
    #3
    ttylerr

    ttylerr Well-Known Member

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    Fort McMurray, Alberta
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    5% tint all around, Alpine IVA-W505, 16x8 Mojave Teflon Rims w/Hercules Terra Trac 265/75, Grillcraft Grill, Slimcubby HIDs, Front 5100's @ 0 w/Eibach 1.6" springs, URD Short Shifter, Extang Trifecta Tonneau Cover, Uniden Pro510XL and K30Mag Mount, Relentless Fab Bumper soon to come
    rad plugged up?
     
  4. Jul 27, 2010 at 9:42 PM
    #4
    Rustyota

    Rustyota well.....

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    Central Coast, CA
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    X2. I'm with Chris4x4 on the fan clutch. You can also add a fan without a clutch (one brand is FlexFan) that helps a lot. Just runs full speed all the time. Fan clutches often will lose up to 10% per 10k miles. Try spinning the fan while the engine is off (obviously) and cold. If it is at all easy to spin, it's a bad fan clutch and could definitely cause you to get too hot. A very common problem that is often overlooked.
     
  5. Jul 27, 2010 at 9:44 PM
    #5
    Rustyota

    Rustyota well.....

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    I may be wrong here, but any head gasket leak would cause radiator overflow and milky radiator fluid... Right? Anybody confirm that?
     
  6. Jul 27, 2010 at 9:45 PM
    #6
    ttylerr

    ttylerr Well-Known Member

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    this too, or you can get a flex-a-lite kit. electric motor running off of an adjustable thermostat. will also free up some horsepower... clutch fans are pretty power hungry.
     
  7. Jul 27, 2010 at 9:56 PM
    #7
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    If you are on the highway, it's more than likely your radiator. Fan clutch would be more evident driving around town. Are you loosing coolant? I had a headgasket leaking on a 22r I had. It ran fine but used coolant. Would only overheat if I let it get low.
     
  8. Jul 27, 2010 at 9:59 PM
    #8
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    The modern fans arent too bad.
     
  9. Jul 27, 2010 at 10:07 PM
    #9
    dirttrax

    dirttrax [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Fan is good and complete colling sytem has been flushed, and water is flowing well thru radiator. Havent noticed low coolant but once it ges hot it looses it, and exhaust has a slight antifreeze smell to it, but no oil in water or water in oil.
     
  10. Jul 27, 2010 at 10:09 PM
    #10
    dirttrax

    dirttrax [OP] Well-Known Member

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    oh and thanks for the fan ideas but i want to fix a problem and not cover it up with extra cooling fans, Because there is something def wrong for it to all of a sudden hit the red.
     
  11. Jul 27, 2010 at 10:17 PM
    #11
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    Did you change the thermostat before or after this problem started? I have recieved defective thermostats from the parts store before.
     
  12. Jul 27, 2010 at 10:20 PM
    #12
    dirttrax

    dirttrax [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I put two new ones in it, still same prob.
     
  13. Jul 27, 2010 at 10:24 PM
    #13
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    Central Coast, CA
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    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
    Another thing you can try is start the truck up completely cold, drive around the block and check for pressure in the top radiator hose. On my old 22r, the headgasket was leaking enough to pressurize the cooling system. It's normal for pressure to build while warming up the engine, but around the block a time or two should not result in full cooling system pressure when the engine is stone cold.

    If you are suspicious of the headgasket you can buy a chemical block test kit at NAPA. It will tell you if there are combustion gases leaking into the coolant.

    Do you still have the original radiator? Are the fins blocked with bugs or mud? I would still be suspicious of the radiator if it's never been replaced. You might be able to see coolant flow, but that does not mean all the tubes are clear. Can you see any deposits around the tubes inside the radiator?
     
  14. Jul 27, 2010 at 10:25 PM
    #14
    Yoytoda

    Yoytoda The Little Truck That Could

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    the fan isnt masking the problem. The fan is vital for cooling the truck.

    Can you drive on the highway or maintain 45mph without overheating?
    If so there is a problem with the fan. If not there is a flow issue. not enough flow due to rad block or possibly an air bubble in the system. water pumps dont pump air and many cars have to be "burped"

    Does running with the heat on help? if so, once again fan or rad block.

    Try another new tstat. I had a bad one and bought one from advanced that was fine until i installed it. i opened it up to double check because id still overheat and it was stuck shut.

    Head gasket can still be bad. They dont always have to become compromised between water jacket and cylinder, they can also leak into the oil passage so check oil for water.

    Edit: Head gaskets are easy on 4 bangers so it might not be a bad thing to try if youve already replaced the tstat and pump
     
  15. Jul 27, 2010 at 10:28 PM
    #15
    desertdude59

    desertdude59 CRAZY 4WHEELER

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    From the Mojave desert now in Wild and Wonderful W
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    4" lift after market front bumper bed mount lightbar/roll bar (4)6" kc's on the roll bar (2) kc flat back bumper mounts f/r gears for the 33's
    could be an intake leak
     
  16. Jul 27, 2010 at 10:29 PM
    #16
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    A family member of mine just took a road trip in their jeep (i know:eek:). The jeep had been running fine in 90 degree weather around town. When they hit 105 degree weather, they had to drop speed to 55mph and run the heater full blast to keep the temp out of the red. The radiator turned out to be plugged up internally. It ran fine all the way home in the same weather with AC on.
     
  17. Jul 27, 2010 at 10:34 PM
    #17
    Yoytoda

    Yoytoda The Little Truck That Could

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    like intake manifold gasket? I was thinking that too because its pretty common on chevys. I wasnt sure if the intake manifold gasket had a water jacket through it like a chevy v8
     
  18. Jul 27, 2010 at 10:47 PM
    #18
    dirttrax

    dirttrax [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I can run it at 70-75 or about 45 min, then all of a sudden you better find a place to pull over, Its so consistant that the last three times it did it at the same place and i pulled over at the same spot, but like i said 70-75 all the way home at night and never over half way.
     
  19. Jul 27, 2010 at 10:48 PM
    #19
    desertdude59

    desertdude59 CRAZY 4WHEELER

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    From the Mojave desert now in Wild and Wonderful W
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    4" lift after market front bumper bed mount lightbar/roll bar (4)6" kc's on the roll bar (2) kc flat back bumper mounts f/r gears for the 33's
    Not sure about the 4cyl, but I know my v6 does. Had it happen before. If the exhaust smells like coolant then I'd smell the radiator for exhaust. I know a compression leak will over pressurize the radiator and cause overheating pushing the water out. I had it happen on my v6, no water in the oil just compression going into my cooling system. Wasnt a good deal at all.
     
  20. Jul 27, 2010 at 10:50 PM
    #20
    dirttrax

    dirttrax [OP] Well-Known Member

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    It seems to have alot of pressure. When its hot you can pop the radiator cap and it will drop instantly to half way and spew pressure out for a while. Then the top radiator hose will jump like its getting burst of air.
    And yes its the stock radiator with over 200,000 on it.
     
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