Rust Help

I'm sure this has been posted many times, but I'm hoping to get some advice specific to me. Hope it's okay to post this here.

First, I've inherited this truck with rust issues. It wasn't apparent in the first year the extent of the rust problem because it's rusting from the inside. I've learned more recently that this is very typical of these trucks, and also very detrimental. I'm sure most, if not all, of you are aware of this..

Second, I'm not very mechanically experienced. This is my first car, and while I've learned a few things, welding and stuff is way beyond my knowledge.

So... There's a few things I can use advice on..

I live in Brooklyn, NY. Does anyone know of any shops with experience with significant frame/rust repair? I just emailed SafeTCap to try to find an authorized shop to take a look at it. I'm pretty desperate to save this truck, so I'll travel..

In the meantime, is there any way for me to clean out the frame. I've only just started to take a good look at the frame as I'm realizing the severity of the rust issue, and ive noticed that there's like an inch or two of loose debris/dirt/salt/rust built up inside the frame just sitting there damp. How can I get that out? Being that I'm in Brooklyn, I don't have a hose hook-up. Is there a car wash I could take it to?

Lastly, I'll include some photos and explain my understanding of the issue as best I can. The worst of the rust is behind the leaf spring hanger/shackle on the driver side. Also, I banged a hammer in front of the hanger, and can tell its very weak up there too.. The passenger side has not rusted through, but I tapped over there too and can tell it's only a matter of time. The rest of the frame seems pretty solid, but again, I know it's only a matter of time.



PS,
I apologize ahead of time for the lengthiness of this post, and my naivety and inexperience. I'm totally open to suggestions. I'm under the impression that this fix will be costly, but like I said, I'm desperate to save this truck. I can scrap together a couple grand if that's what it takes.
Aside from that, I have family that would let me use their tools/driveway down in Philly. Maybe I could clean out the frame down there before I pay to have it repaired.

PPS, this is my daily. I don't need it daily, but I'm using it in the meantime and it's snowy/salty/muddy here for the foreseeable future. Safety issue? How quickly will this progress?

 

Good thing is you have some solid metal there to weld to. SafetCap is your friend here. For reference I paid someone $700 to weld the mid section on my single cab. Means cutting off the old leaf spring mount, and prepping and welding the mid sleeve on, and reattaching leaf spring.

Treat what you have esp. inside frame. Look up waxoyl and see specifically their cavity wax product. Comes in aerosol with a long wand to put inside frame.

But get both of these steps while you still have solid metal there.

 

Looks like you’re already on the right path!

Saf t cap has a list of shops in each state certified to use their products.

here:https://www.autorust.com/safetcap-installer-network/

Like the above poster said, get a wax product on it in the mean time, spray inside of the frame and out. Also don’t try to tow a trailer any time soon.

I’ve heard people saw it’s about 1,000 per side to have those repairs done. Good luck

 

If you don't have the means to DYI at least some of the work - take the bed off, clean the frame, wrench suspension - this will end up being a very expensive ordeal to do it properly, I'm afraid.

 

I hate to rain on your parade, but if you can scrape together a couple grand for repairs, then you should spend that couple of grand on a cheap, but less rusty car. This thing is way far gone and will cost you thousands in repairs, and eventually the rust will win the war

 

I always see people post stuff like this. I'm stuck in a tough spot because this truck is exactly what I want, and outside of the rust problem that's developing it's a really solid truck. I'm not sure how you can determine that it's "way far gone" based on the couple of photos I've posted.

It's not so easy to sell a truck with this frame issue and then expect to find anything worthwhile for that price + a couple grand. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think I could sell this thing for like 6 grand? (I'm at 140k miles). Then scrape together another 2k and hope to find another Tacoma without rust issues for 8k? That seems unlikely.

My alternative is to hope to spend that 1-2k to clean & replace parts of the frame, and then coat it each year down the line. I don't expect it to last forever, but I think (maybe naively) that I'm not too far gone for this option.

 

Thanks man. I missed that section of their site. I'm going to get in contact with Pro Lube Performance in Staten Island later this week. I'll update the thread when I learn more.

 

Thanks man. I've heard of waxoyl before - I'll check it out asap. Appreciate the help.

 

Good to hear best of luck lets us know how it turns out.

don’t get discouraged. Just look in Facebook marketplace at the rest of the 1st gen’s in New England. TONS have patched frames and still sell for way more than you’d think. If it’s a good running truck go for it

 

Yes, this ^^^. Without pics of the full undercarraige there's no assessment here on overall condition. Weld a sleeve on it -- and don't feel obligated to use the folks on safetycap's list. Anyone with solid welding skills can do it.

Ive had three toyotas rot out to point of vehicle retirement.

 

Well the price was right that you got it for. Now it's time to make a decision on when you think you will spend too much money on a sinking ship or it could be the one that was saved with a success story. Go do your research and investigations try not to fall in love with things that have bad odds. Make good decisions. I Hope it works out for the best.

 

You're right I'm assuming (and can't possibly know that the rest of the truck isn't in perfect condition). But common sense (and basic chemistry principles) makes it a safe assumption that the inside of the frame rails are all in similarly bad condition. The best course of action to save this truck would be a frame swap, but again I'll assume you're not in a position to do that in NYC.

All that being said maybe you can find a relative outside the city that will let you park this thing at their place for a while. Then take that couple of grand you can scrape together and buy a total beater (likely won't be a Tacoma) to get you by until you can afford to repair the truck properly. Trying to nurse the current frame along when it's perforated already is going to be a total money pit. Not trying to be negative, just trying to offer some real world advice.

 

Please don’t take rust repair advice from anyone who doesn’t live in the rust belt…

 

FWIW, here's a truck that sold (way over priced) -- very nice condition with a patched frame. You can see it in the photos and comments. Frame condition before patching is unknown... Like I said, buyer over paid, but the point here is good trucks are repairable and valuable. Small frame rust issues can be resolved.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1999-toyota-tacoma-18/

Here's another one with frame work. Doesn't show before pics, but again, the point is that trucks can be repaired and nice ones still have value even with repairs.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2001-toyota-tacoma-60/

If you sleeve the rust section, consider getting the sleeve galvanized if such a place exists near you. Galvanizing is cheap....

Good luck --

 

Thanks for the reply's everyone -

I stopped by Pro Lube Performance in Staten Island. They work with Safe T Cap, and only do frame restoration. Joe took a good look at my entire frame and quoted me $1900 to clean the frame inside and out and cut out and replace the section where it's rotted through. He's going to have to drop the gas tank, and potentially remove the bed. This is likely the route I'll go.. I'm also under the assumption that the frame is likely weak in at least one other area, but we'll see.


I'll keep updating this after that work is done, and as I continue to do work to protect and reenforce the frame.

 

Jobs done. Cost a bit more than originally anticipated, but well worth the peace of mind in the short term. I’d include pics, but it’s absolutely covered in wool wax, and you can’t see much. Joe said the rest of the frame looked good, and don’t need to come for a recoat for about two years. I’ll take a better look at everything when the wax dries up a bit. We’ll see..

 

that is a fine deal on the surface
i recall getting a quote from a local central USA frame shop for over 2500$ some years ago for just cleaning up some surface rusty i could not easily reach without proper equipment and then recoating with a better quality frame paint then what Toyota used on these
they were going to use POR-15 onit so i had to pass...
i may look into this Pro Lube Performance you found after i see more pics of your taco and what they did

how exactly did they remove any existing surface rust?

i found this on their website
is this what they did for you?

RUST REMEDIATION
About Pro Lube Performance Inc

LASER CLEANING AND RUST REMOVAL
Laser rust removal, a type of laser cleaning, is an effective process for cleaning up metal parts. Using a fiber laser cleaning system, rust and other contaminants can be quickly and completely removed without damaging the metal underneath.

Laser rust removal is a great alternative to manual and chemical cleaning methods since rust is removed with greater precision. Inquire about having your vehicle, equipment or any other needs to have the rust removed.