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Rust Prevention

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by thomask, Jan 7, 2012.

  1. Jan 7, 2012 at 8:39 AM
    #1
    thomask

    thomask [OP] Member

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    Hey Guys,
    New 2nd Gen Tacoma owner ('08 Sport Radiant Red--had a '98 1st gen up until a few months ago). I browse the site a lot but have only posted one other time. I've been browsing some of the threads on rust prevention and am going to do it this weekend. I got some valspar primer and paint from TSC and have already wire brushed all the surface rust I have. Nothing bad so far, but a few places have the potential to get bad. I'm going to spray the entire frame, but I have a few questions on whether some other locations are necessary. I'm attaching some pictures, if you can tell me if these areas are necessary I'd appreciate it. Maybe tell me which photos are necessary by calling them photos 54-59 and let me know that way? Also let me know if I'm going about this the right way. I can't spend the crazy money on some of the other rustproofers, so if you have other economical ideas please let me know. Thanks!!

    IMG_0154 (Small).jpg
    IMG_0155 (Small).jpg
    IMG_0156 (Small).jpg
    IMG_0157 (Small).jpg
    IMG_0158 (Small).jpg
    IMG_0159 (Small).jpg
     
  2. Jan 7, 2012 at 8:41 AM
    #2
    Capita

    Capita Well-Known Member

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    Corner Brook, Newfoundland, Canada
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    Wow I wish my truck looked that good underneath.
    I get my truck done yearly with a product called Krown. I don't know if its just a Canadian thing though. It seems to help a bit
     
  3. Jan 7, 2012 at 8:46 AM
    #3
    DEEVON911

    DEEVON911 Semi-Pro

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    Bethel Park, PA. Burb of da Burgh.
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    2010 MGM Mostly Stock Off-Road 4x4
    TRD Cat-back Exhaust. Semi-Debadged. Trimmed down stock Antenna. Weathertech vent visors. TRD FJ Cruiser Center Cap Wheel Mod. 265/75/16 Firestone Destination A/T,s . Inverter tapped into for outlet in cab. Tacomaworld sticker which adds 5 hp.
    Ya OP, actually does not look too bad under there. I see no need to paint those things you pictured. Specially not the exhaust. That would just burn off, and possibly cause a fire, you don't want that.
     
  4. Jan 7, 2012 at 9:02 AM
    #4
    thomask

    thomask [OP] Member

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    Thanks for the advice on the exhaust, that makes sense. Even though it's not bad, there isn't any harm in preventing it from getting to the point where it will get bad is there? Should I do it now while it's good or wait until I see rust and then act? I'm thinking prevention, but if you guys think differently let me know.
     
  5. Jan 7, 2012 at 9:08 AM
    #5
    DEEVON911

    DEEVON911 Semi-Pro

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    Bethel Park, PA. Burb of da Burgh.
    Vehicle:
    2010 MGM Mostly Stock Off-Road 4x4
    TRD Cat-back Exhaust. Semi-Debadged. Trimmed down stock Antenna. Weathertech vent visors. TRD FJ Cruiser Center Cap Wheel Mod. 265/75/16 Firestone Destination A/T,s . Inverter tapped into for outlet in cab. Tacomaworld sticker which adds 5 hp.
    I wouldn't see anything wrong with it. I can't speak for that paint, but I have heard people just using rustoleum in a rattle can for hitting things on the frame and what-not.
     
  6. Jan 7, 2012 at 9:14 AM
    #6
    Workman

    Workman Well-Known Member

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    Workman thinks that you have very minimal rust issues on your Tacoma. He has more on his 06. If He was You, Workman would not worry about it at all and go out and enjoy his Tacoma over the weekend, not waste time applying rust remover/coverup. Don't fret the exhaust rust either. That happens to EVERY stock car or truck that Workman has ever seen, besides a stainless steel exhaust system.

    If you live in a place where they salt the shit out of the roads in the winter, then you might consider Krown, por-15, or another undercoating. If not, forget it and go enjoy your truck.
     
  7. Jan 7, 2012 at 9:18 AM
    #7
    DEEVON911

    DEEVON911 Semi-Pro

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    Bethel Park, PA. Burb of da Burgh.
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    TRD Cat-back Exhaust. Semi-Debadged. Trimmed down stock Antenna. Weathertech vent visors. TRD FJ Cruiser Center Cap Wheel Mod. 265/75/16 Firestone Destination A/T,s . Inverter tapped into for outlet in cab. Tacomaworld sticker which adds 5 hp.
    DEEVON911 loves to read Workman's posts!!! :rofl:
     
  8. Jan 7, 2012 at 10:37 AM
    #8
    nhgranite

    nhgranite Well-Known Member

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    oil it. messy but unless its a trailer queen all waxed and shinny all the time its worth it. i was to lazy to do it this fall and didn't want to pay for it.

    i'll be scraping and painting the frame in the spring. then spraying oil on/in the heavily rust prone areas.
     
  9. Jan 7, 2012 at 10:48 AM
    #9
    saf023

    saf023 Well-Known Member

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    I certainly agree that one alternative is to ignore the rust and enjoy the truck. For some of us who have been trained to be OCD about details it's often easier said than done.

    Here's an alternative for the OP. Go to Costco like store and buy a six pack of WD40 and a cheap electric water pressure washer. Go to Home Depot and buy a gallon of 409 degreaser. Each fall and on one of the nicer winter days spray down the undercarriage with WD40. It takes about 3 cans and 10 minutes per application. Pay particular attention to the rust areas that concern you. Each spring mix a 50/50 solution of the 409 degreaser into a spray bottle and cover the undercarriage. Let it sit for 15 to 30 minutes and then hit it with the pressure washer.

    The WD40 and 409 are both effective cleaners. WD40 leaves a film that does seem to inhibit rust for a period of time. I've got surface rust on the undercarriage of my 5 year old 60K mile DCSB Sport. I do drive it daily in areas where roads are heavily salted in winter. My undercarriage doesn't look any different than yours which to me is fine. It certainly has not gotten any worse over time and mileage.
     
  10. Jan 7, 2012 at 11:04 AM
    #10
    jcayce

    jcayce Well-Known Member

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    Husqvarna chainsaw oil from Lowes. Two standard skinny candles melted into the chainsaw oil. Bug sprayer from Lowes. Spray on. Reapply once a year.

    Chainsaw oil does not attract dirt and debris like regular oil. It is actually a little honey like in consistency.
     
  11. Jan 7, 2012 at 11:13 AM
    #11
    jcayce

    jcayce Well-Known Member

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    Sorry for the double post, using phone. Chainsaw oil also creeps into cavities and the wax will form a hardened layer keeping the oil from degrading so quickly.
     
  12. Jan 7, 2012 at 4:15 PM
    #12
    nhgranite

    nhgranite Well-Known Member

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    how long to the wax hardens? seems you got little time to apply.
     
  13. Jan 7, 2012 at 7:00 PM
    #13
    08TacoTrD

    08TacoTrD Well-Known Member

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    5100's and 883 OME Coils TRD Exhaust Deaver 1.5" AAL Rear Differential Breather Extension, 4WD Light, Tailgate Pipe clamp, Fog lights on while High Beams on, Carrier Bearing flip
    Yours looks brand new in comparison to mine. I submerge the ass end in water about 75-100 times a year and just today I was looking under the truck and I thought to myself about scrapping and treating it to slow down the deterioration I already see. I think POR15 is what I need.
     
  14. Jan 8, 2012 at 8:07 AM
    #14
    jcayce

    jcayce Well-Known Member

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    You have awhile. Mixed properly the wax stays suspended in the oil...I usually only spend an hour on the whole process from mix to spray to drip dry. I will get drips for a couple of days when certain components warm up and the mix creeps some more.

    This winter I ditched the wax and went full Husqvarna with a bottle brush and a sponge. Note that I am an Iowa transplant living in Texas now where rust prevention should NOT be needed. Drive your brand new Tacoma through a puddle and you will see why it is.

    Living in Iowa I have tried the following:

    Ziebart
    Used oil
    Waxoyl
    Chainsaw oil and wax
    Spray on wax dry/lubricants
    ACF-50

    Fluid Film is still on my list of things to try.

    Believe it or not, the best automobiles that I have owned that fought frame rust were Nissans and Isuzus. Isuzu would coat their underside with some magic concoction.
     
  15. Jan 8, 2012 at 8:27 AM
    #15
    jcayce

    jcayce Well-Known Member

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    Also, one of my friends was more of a believer in paint than oiled coatings. He sprayed Rustoleum twice a year. By the time he was finished prepping for the paint, I could be completely done spraying. And I have seen some bad things happen with the rust converters. We had an old barn that someone had reinforced with steel I-beams at some point. They were rusty at the joints and we thought that some rust converter would benefit the longevity. Five small bales of hay and a loft collapse later has made me skeptical. Could be coincidence, but looking at the beams I could swear the converter had 'converted' rust AND good metal weakening the ends of the beams.
     
  16. Jan 8, 2012 at 12:35 PM
    #16
    wileyC

    wileyC Well-Known Member

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    which worked the best? how was ziebart?
     
  17. Jan 8, 2012 at 4:25 PM
    #17
    maineah

    maineah Well-Known Member

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    I spray all of my stuff with Fluid Film, farm stuff, cars,truck and TT. It's cheap and works great 1 gal. is enough for 3 trucks. Any high pressure sprayer works fine, standard Wagner electric sprayer is what I use. It's messy ware old cloths a hat and respirator it's non toxic but some how breathing lanolin oil can't be good for you.
     
  18. Jan 8, 2012 at 4:30 PM
    #18
    apotter

    apotter Well-Known Member

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    One of the guys from prime in saco uses fluid film and swears by the stuff as well. With the amount of calcium chloride they put down on the maine roads, if you do nothing the thing would be rusted out in 5 years.
     
  19. Jan 8, 2012 at 4:40 PM
    #19
    brp

    brp Well-Known Member

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    I do something similar to saf023, but instead of the chainsaw oil I use Lanox Mx4 and instead of the 409 I use Simple Green Foaming Spray with crystals.
    The simple green stuff is awesome for general cleaning as well, and the foam sticks to the chassis, so it can really soak in before it would drip off.

    If you go this route, three cans of simple green should be fine, maybe four spray cans for the Lanox Mx4. I bought the 5 liter jug of Lanox, should be good for 3-4 liberal applications of the entire underbody, maybe 2-3 years worth. The jug comes with a manual spray can.

    One thing I have thought would work really well is the Lanox MX4 grease, rather than oil. If you could get some kind of heated spray gun, you could melt the grease, spray it on and then it would firm up and be a really great rust barrier.

    My 2 cents.

    http://www.yachtsupplydepot.com/boa...icant-mx4-5-litre/1-32-gallon/prod_61762.html


    http://www.amazon.com/Simple-Green-SMP19010-Industrial-Degreaser/dp/B0010T66JO
     
  20. Jan 8, 2012 at 4:43 PM
    #20
    brp

    brp Well-Known Member

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    Just noticed at my amazon link in the previous post, you can save 131 grand on the spray, pretty nice deal. :rolleyes:
     
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