Rust Proofing

Will take delivery in a few weeks of a `13 Double Cab TRD Off Road. I live in upstate NY. New to Tacoma`s. Older model Toyota trucks used to rust like crazy. Should I have stealership rust proof or not?

 

I would have it done,but by ziebart.

 

Waste of money at the dealership, Ziebart? Used to be in every town on every TV station, not now! Wonder why?

 

I've seen the underneath of my friends '10 Tundra after dealer rust-proofing...that being said, I'd either go with Ziebart, manage it myself with fluid film or mop-n-glo, or just keep it cleaned by liberally washing the underside at a carwash.

His has more cancer than mine on the underside and mine is untreated, just done some touch-ups with por-15. Only way you can tell his was treated was his shocks got sprayed with something black honestly.

 

IMHO, most people don't Ziebart because they don't plan to own the vehicle long enough for it to be their problem...kinda like people doing their own oil changes and checking tire pressures...most people just don't do it those types of things anymore...

 

^^ I believe what miniceptor86 is alluding to is that they never stay around long enough for you to actually collect on the Zeibart "warranty" when your car rusts out.

I live right next to the Atlantic Ocean in northern Canada and rust is a huge concern for me. I opted out of the dealer rust protection because the price is just ridiculous. (Something like 7200 dolllars? wtf?)

Some of the guys on here were talking about "Fluid Film" so I grabbed some of that and so far its amazing. My plan is to crawl under the truck every 6 months and spray the bejesus out of everything I can with it. That way a) I can see what is rusting where and deal with it as it happens by grinding it off and using Por 15 b) Use copper Anti-Seize on any bolt I remove and replace and c) I'll always be able to keep a close eye on anything else that is going on down there and catch problems before they happen.

I realize not everyone is willing to get dirty and be hands on like that but, considering I will be doing all my own maintenance, under no circumstances do I want to be snapping bolts and heating nuts in a year or so when I have to change my brakes or the odd bushing.

I wish there was an easy answer but the truth is, due diligence and a multi-pronged approach is just about the only thing that will keep vehicles relatively rust free that are subject to road salt. Hope that helps.

 

I totaly agree. My 03' had its frame replaced by Toyota 3 years ago. The body was rust free but the frame rusted through. If you look closely you will notice that the lower part of the cab has a composit and the bed itself is a composit. Just keep an eye on the frame and treat as needed.

 

do you tape off pivot points, anything that bolts in, etc? i need to look into this.

 

I have been pretty happy with rust bullet. Its a hard coating thats thick and doesnt chip off. goes on with a brush or an HPLV sprayer.

 

I just wash mine once a week, to get off all the salt. Will probably go to Krown Rust and get it sprayed with oil next year.

 

According to the info on the can it is a solvent free "Wool Wax Forumla" and "Will not harm painted surfaces, plastic, or most synthetic rubber surfaces" It's also non conducting so is great for things like battery lugs ect. It comes with a straw for the can (like WD40) so I can be fairly accurate with it's application so I'm not overly concerned with taping off pivot points.

That being said, I only just got this truck last week so I have zero long term data to go on yet.

I just checked out the Rust Bullet product that Crosis mentioned above and that also seems like a quality product. Again, when it comes to rust protection I think the more you do, the better off you will be.