Rust proofing

What are the thoughts on Amsoil Heavy Metal Protector vs fluid film?

I’ve been using FF but road grime combined with FF makes a mess of the underside of the truck. Amsoil seems to be better in this regard.

 

Quick question for anyone out there who has used some sort of spray gun setup for applying FF. How is the cleanup? Terrible, impossible, not too bad?? I have an hvlp setup I use for painting trim projects and finishing woodworking, I would use it if I thought I could effectively clean out the gun? The gallon setup is just so much cheaper than spray cans, which I will use no prob if I have to.

 

I ho cleans it? I have a dedicated FF kit. I use and store it in plastic bags. I wipe off the outside, but that’s it.

 

Mustie1 did a series on removing, fixing and then a 2 yr follow up on the work which was done on the Tundra he bought (on the cheap) that had the Toyota undercoat - Learned a lot of my wrenching from his Red Green style..

Starts about 20m mark - Paint scraper and compressed air.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=INNMrAGl0Bg

Then uses a bunch of microwaved and thinned oil https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVhP8HhxJbw

Here is the 2 yr video of the results https://youtu.be/nn-cqoVYQR0

 

Annually;

I Use ACF-50 and spray EVERYWHERE inside the engine compartment (except the serpentine belt)
and EVERYWHERE else on the truck except the interior, brake friction surfaces and outside paint. (Even the exhaust system gets sprayed)
(I use acf-50 very sparingly on the caliper pins and pistons and make sure none gets on the pads or the rotor, it it high temperature and lubricates very well so if you like being able to stop, keep it off all friction surfaces and spray your rotos with brake cleaner just in case)


You can get ACF-50 by the gallon for a about $120, and is enough to do the truck 3-4 times...

https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/cspages/acf50.php

No mess at all so it does not suck to work on areas that have been sprayed with this stuff,
BUT it will was off with soap and water or high salt spray areas.

I picked up a spray gun kit from Amazon like this one to get in all the drip holes and inside the frame etc.



https://www.amazon.ca/Buytools-Rust...84764&sprefix=rustproofing+gun,aps,171&sr=8-4

(if it drips, you are spraying too much, you just need to fog this stuff).

Then I spray the underside of the truck and wheelwells, shocks with CorrosionX-HD (it's cosmoline based)

About $140 a gallon but really out performs Fluid Film... Don't need to spray it everywhere annually either...

https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/cspages/corrosionxhd.php

To clean this stuff off you will need to use mineral spirits, so cover your hair and skin when you spray it,
unless you want a waxy waterproof feeling for a while...

Again you only need to spray a thin coat of this stuff.
I avoid the exhaust system with this stuff as it's not high heat rated like the ACF-50 and I keep it away from the rad and condenser because it will collect a little bit of dirt.

In 3 years I've gone through 1 gallon of ACF-50 and half a gallon of CorrosionX-hd

No rust anywhere on the underside, or body panels of my truck.

I tried Fluid Film for part of one season... on my Bilistein rear shocks... They started corroding in 3 months...
cleaned off the FF and went with ACF-50 then corrosionX-HD and any rust that had started on the shock was neutralized and no new corrosion started since.

Long story short... For a barrier coating you want something Cosmoline based...

 

I have used Krown since I owned one of my first trucks way back in the late 80's. I have a buddy that owns a franchise so I might get a little better treatment than the average guy, but knowing my buddy I would say not. Its 125 bucks per application, I have nothing to clean up, no crawling under my truck, no protective shit to wear and they will guarantee it for as long as I own my truck.

 

FF removes readily with detergents like Spray Nine. Important thing to know for the following year when the FF catches dirt and turns into caked-on mud...

If you spray cosmoline I'd suggest a separate gun for it.

 

I did read this thoroughly, however I just want to be 152% sure what you're stating is that the ACF-5 can withstand the engine & even exhaust heat.... I routed around in the tech specs, however didn't see anything? I was on another thread & I believe someone stated the corrosionrx could take the heat of the engine. I wanna say it wasn't even on the can (not sure) & I called the co but got a leave a message thing, so I sprayed some on & the answer is no. No corrrosionrx on the engine. Luckily I only used it on a spot or two.

& since you stated spraying the ACF everywhere, I'm taking it it's ok on grommets, sleeves, hoses, etc?

& thanks for humoring me since I am sure you would have stated all this already....

It sounds great for the frame. I just cannot imagine attempting to remove all the woolwax....

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyWHF4NoNVk&ab_channel=ProjectFarm

 

Only places you have to worry about not getting ACF-50 is on the,
Serpentine Belt, Brakes and the Rubber door seals.

There is a little smoking coming off the exhaust for the first 5 or 10 mins but I have not noticed any discoloration on the exhaust or major smoking like with Fluid Film. (nor the huge stink).

In fact I noticed that except for the exhaust flanges, there isn't the corrosion on the exhaust like I see with even the Tacomas a year or two old up here.

There a a lot of people who use ACF-50 on their motorcycle exhaust in England for their "winter". None have had any issues or staining.

I would not bother trying to remove old Woolwax or Fluid Film, I'd just power wash it a couple days before ,to get rid of any major grime buildup and grit and then just spray the ACF-50 over it, it will soak into the woolwax and still work fine.

 

Thank you for all that info.
Two more questions - I did go to the site & don’t see any reference to getting it on hoses, boots, silicone, rubber, etc. Am I missing something? & my second question may answer the first by further researching it - do you know what the base of it is? Not sure i’m wording that correctly. For instance, corrosionx is cosmoline based, ff is lanolin, etc....
& i’m sure if you had any deterioration of rubber, etc, you’d have stated so. I simply get very curious about what the different bases are & aren’t said by the pros to be capable of. &, not only is it ok to get some on rubber, silicone, is it actually beneficial, etc.

 

I know it has a petroleum based carrier in it that evaporates. That is the part that is not good for natural rubber and may deteriorate your door seals. But I get it all over my spare tire and there has been no visual degradation on it.
It was certified for planes and helicopters for the anti-corrosion treatments, they have quite a few isolation bushings in them so if it was degrading those, it would have not been certified. I soaked an old Santoprene bushing I had laying around in a cup of it for a week, and the only thing that happened to it was it got cleaner. So I feel confident.
Never had any stains on the truck paint either.

I never found out what the "active" ingredients in it are, but it does have a 2 year shelf life for the "active" ingredients.

I found that in real high direct water spray areas (inside wheel wells, bottom of the differential and front of the rear axles) it will get washed off after about 3-4 months and those are the areas would need to be hit again or apply CorrosionX, I find FF only lasts about 1 month longer in those areas too, that's why I switched to corrosionX in those areas.

You only need to fog ACF-50 on, if it runs or drips, your using too much.

It really lubricates things too, you'll notice your truck will ride smoother and quieter,