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Rust removal POR-15????? or what? -Pics posted-

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by CountryGirl96, Apr 20, 2012.

  1. Apr 20, 2012 at 5:45 AM
    #1
    CountryGirl96

    CountryGirl96 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys I feel bad for not posting for a while. I wish there were 5 more hours in a day and we could survive without sleep, Anyway here's my question: how do you guys remove surface rust? My dad has finally agreed to help me remove the rust and stuff. I was thinking of getting the POR-15 super starter kit (POR-15, Prep&Ready and Marine Clean). I think it will work for the most part, but there is a few spots above the windshield that kind of make me nervous :S Here are the pics

    Spots above windshield, the really large one seems to be right on top of the rear view mirror

    [​IMG]

    Here are the other spots, I don't think those are hard to do.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Here's another concern:

    [​IMG]

    Is this rust coming through the bed liner???? How the heck would I take care of that. Sorry I don't have a clue what brand of bed liner it is.




    also another thing, If I use the POR-15 do I just use the auto paint or do I prime first?







    Thanks so much for your help guys :)
     
  2. Apr 20, 2012 at 5:49 AM
    #2
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    Im interested in how to take care of the rust above the windshield... I have a little spot starting to bubble up right now.

    As for the headlight fillers, I'd just pop those out, sand them down prime them and paint them.
     
  3. Apr 20, 2012 at 6:06 AM
    #3
    CountryGirl96

    CountryGirl96 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I hope it's not a big job that requires a lot of expertise. And it's rather inexpensive to fix
     
  4. Apr 20, 2012 at 6:10 AM
    #4
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    Yeah, I'm not the type of guy to do any kind of body work like that though.

    Granted if you and your Pops pull it off with relative ease, post a write up with lots of pics

    :eek:
     
  5. Apr 20, 2012 at 6:34 AM
    #5
    jeepdude

    jeepdude Regular Member

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    POR doesn't remove rust, it chemically stops it from spreading. It is great for things like frames, brackets, etc. but not so great for finished body panels. For that area above the windshield, you're gonna need to scrape and scuff those bubbles, THEN apply the POR, then topcoat it. It's not going to look pretty, but it should kill the rust. Even tho it's name is Paint Over Rust, they still expect you to remove loose scaley type stuff. For the bed area (that's a sprayed on, or rolled liner, yeah?) get underneath your bed to see what's causing it, POR THAT area, and spot repair the bed liner on top. For that minor stuff on the hood, I wouldn't waste POR on it...just old fashioned 220 grit, a d/a (sander) or elbow grease, prime, final sand, and top coat. To fix every little dot of rust individually would be a major pain, and in the end your hood would look like frakenstein
     
  6. Apr 20, 2012 at 6:50 AM
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    CountryGirl96

    CountryGirl96 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So your saying to sand the whole hood prime and paint? My concern for the windshield is that it is right over the rear view mirror and it might go right through (yikes). Totally new to the whole body work truck thing I have no clue whatsoever in what to do if it does go right through.
     
  7. Apr 20, 2012 at 6:56 AM
    #7
    twfsa

    twfsa Well-Known Member

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    That one above the shield needs to be treated with the windshield removed, I am talking about the rust near and its underneath the weatherstrip, that filler underneath the headlight just pops out and can be sanded, I have always repaired rust by sand or bead blasting, that spot in the bed most likely can be scraped and treated, but once rust starts and is not completely removed its a waste of time.
     
  8. Apr 20, 2012 at 7:05 AM
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    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

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    POR15 is black.... and very very thick. It goes on bare metal, not on painted surfaces.
     
  9. Apr 20, 2012 at 7:07 AM
    #9
    CountryGirl96

    CountryGirl96 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeowsers!!!! This sounds like a BIG job. Right now the truck is our only vehicle, so any repairs have to be done in one day :S . What about some of the stuff along the bottom of the door?

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Apr 20, 2012 at 7:13 AM
    #10
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    Where exactly is Essex? Next to Atlantis?

    So much rust :(
     
  11. Apr 20, 2012 at 7:17 AM
    #11
    jeepdude

    jeepdude Regular Member

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    yeah the windsheild area scares me too, I wouldn't want to find a hole either! But if a hole is lurking, it's gonna start leaking whether you treat it or not. To fix a hole like that means a sheet metal patch, which means getting a pro involved. (unless your Dad has a welder) Lotsa folks will shmoo bondo in hole, and call it done, but it WILL fall out (and this case in your lap!) in 2 weeks. If it were MY truck, and I was planning to keep it a while, I'd want to fix it. Stuff like that would bug me every day I looked at it! As for the hood, it really just your time and effort, not rocket science. If it really comes out bad, re-sand, try again.
     
  12. Apr 20, 2012 at 7:54 AM
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    CountryGirl96

    CountryGirl96 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Uhhhh Essex is in canada
     
  13. Apr 20, 2012 at 7:55 AM
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    CountryGirl96

    CountryGirl96 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I would love to be able to fix it all but... Trucks cost money :(
     
  14. Apr 20, 2012 at 8:04 AM
    #14
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    Unfortunately, you won't be able to fix the roof in a day. Any products you use will need at least that long just to cure, let alone any prep time involved. If the top hole isn't through the sheet metal and you can remove all the rust without going through the sheet metal, you might be able to fill the hole with body filler and paint over it. To get the area right over the windshield that's in the weather stripping, you'll need to remove the windshield as mentioned above. If you want to get away with fixing the roof cheaper, you can paint the roof a contrast color (black) so you don't have to worry about matching the truck color. The other areas you just need to sand to remove the rust, use filler if the rust has pitted the sheet metal, sand, prime, paint and clear coat. On larger panels like the hood or the door, you always be able to see what you painted vs. factory paint unless you're really really good at color matching!

    Just to throw it out there, for the cost to spot repair all the smaller damage on the entire truck, you might want to look into doing the repair work (sanding and body filler) yourself and have a place like Maaco paint the whole truck.
     
  15. Apr 20, 2012 at 8:07 AM
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    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    There are tons of Essex's

    Thanks for clarifying
     
  16. Apr 24, 2012 at 5:30 PM
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    POR15 Guy

    POR15 Guy New Member

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    You can fix the issues you have with POR-15, BUT you will need have some cosmetics to deal with. If you plan on keeping this one for a while, or getting good $$ when you sell, it needs to be hole-free and no big rust problems. Like others have suggested, sanding is required around the rusted areas.

    The POR-15 is actually very runny, and two coats are about the thickness of a contractor trash bag. If the rust is not a hole yet, you will have no problem at all - just remove about 1/2" around the rusted area(s), and have a UV-resistant top coat paint handy. A starter kit will do about 6 square feet of area, so that would be plenty, and just follow the directions carefully. The best time to paint over the POR-15 is ENTIRELY dependent on how much humidity is present - the dryer the air, the longer it takes to dry, and the more humid it is, the more quickly it will dry. At 80% humidity, it will dry in less than an hour at 70 degrees. You should paint over the POR-15 when it is not _quite_ fully dry, but not wet enough to smudge.

    If you have an actual hole, you will need to get to it from the other side. In this case, you don't want to apply body filler to bare metal, ever. Both sides of the hole should be coated first, then fill the hole and smooth it out on the top side, and top coat paint it as soon as it's dry.

    The whole reason it's rusted in the first place is that the paint oxidized. Any conventional / UV-protected paint (i.e. 97% of all automotive paints) can oxidize because they are porous. Once the paint oxidizes enough, the metal underneath oxidizes, or rusts, and from there it goes from bad to really bad really fast. That's were you are now - I'll bet that most of the paint on the truck is already failing, and you have to decide what's worth doing and what's not.

    Under the bedliner, it will continue to rust unless you scrape off the affected area and neutralize the rust - and like others have pointed out, you need to get both the top side and the bottom side.

    I get to see all sorts of fun rust projects every day, and most of them are actually pretty easy to deal with, as long as you don't mind investing some elbow grease.
     
  17. Apr 24, 2012 at 7:44 PM
    #17
    CountryGirl96

    CountryGirl96 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys for all your responses, I will try to post pics if and when we get it done :)
     
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