Rust repair project (and a buch of other stuff)- my build thread?

What materials did you use? I may need to do some of this.

 

From your pics it looks like yours may be salvageable. Mine was junk and totally seized and rusted. Im not sure the rear brakes wven worked… But i used a wilwood adjustable valve, Amazon copper nickel brake line and random fittings.
Please be careful and take your time flaring and bending new lines if your going that route. You'll need your brakes more than anything else

 

Im probably one of the slowest people on here. It took me over two weeks to do a simple valve clearance adjustment. Thanks for the tips. I read some ABS delete threads and anticipate the need to do a little custom plumbing on the brake lines. I do have a wee bit of experience with metal lines.

 

Did you use Ez Bend tubing? I see it available from summit racing. Looks like a viable option. Which model valve did you use from wilwood?

 

Well I cancelled my order from Toyotapartsdeal. They keep giving me the runaround about when they'll be able to ship my order. They did refund me pretty quick though. Instead, I found a spare tire cross-member on ebay and I'm getting the last few odds/ends from my local dealership like the shock bolts and rear shackle bushings.

 

The copper nickel does bend pretty easy. I dont remember the model but it was around $75

 

Great thread, tons of valuable information. I could use info on the proportioning valve '02 stand cab 4x4, no ABS.

Here's what I have so far, please correct me if I have it wrong. The factory valve is pre-set at 70% front bias and 30% rear bias, this with no load on the truck. As the truck is loaded the the spring/rod adds pressure to the valve which creates more rear bias, the maximum bias being 50/50 with full payload.

This is where it gets interesting. I'm not sure which line goes where on the valve. Two lines run from the front of the truck back to the valve, and a third line runs from the valve to the rear brakes. The lines that run from front to rear are for supply (pressure to rear brakes) and return (bypass back to front brakes).

I need help with what goes where. I searched on line for a schematic or diagram and couldn't find what I was looking for, hoping you folks can help, thanks.....

 

You got a gem compared to my truck....lol

Please see in thread linked below.

 

Did you remove all your brake lines before addressing this issue? I imagine looking at the original valve would give a clue. I don't know what goes where yet, but I'll be needing to figure it out here soon. Where'd you get that ratio data from? I don't know what it's supposed to be.

Its a gem because it exists at all. Lot of TLC coming to it, but I have no regerts about the investment needed. The entire rear half is going to be all new excluding the rear axle. I wasn't planning on replacing the tank, but I wonder if I should? I haven't dropped it to see how it looks yet.

 

You'll have to trace them back to the front valve but in MY CASE the upper line going into the RBPV is the pressurized fluid from the master cylinder. The line beneath it is a return line back to the system. I was able to remove the return line completely and cap it on the frame just beneath the master cylinder. i have the high pressure going in the manual valve and then one line to a tee on the axle that feeds each wheel cylinder. Please don't assume mine is the same as yours.. double check

 

Finally got the bed off. I don’t think it’s as bad as a lot of other rust buckets on here.

 

It came off pretty easy because it only had 3 bolts holding it in, the other three were missing.

 

The frame appears to be in good shape, other than that plate, you have new rails, right.

 

My LSPV looks worse than I expected. Especially the mounting bracket. I might could salvage the valve, but imma need a new bracket.

 

And yep, new rails to be grafted in under the cab.

 

I guess up close it doesn't look to good. Mine looked like that, inside that rubber boot at the bottom of the valve was a mess, no repair, that's why I opted for replacement.

 

The drive shaft looks bad but it rings like a bell.

 

More rust pics before I take it all apart.

A few issues:
The evap canister mounting brackets look like they'll break when I take it off. If anyone has one laying around I'll buy it.
The LSPV adjusting rod looks bent. Is it supposed to look like that or no? If no, it may be bent due to the moving parts rusting up. Can anyone confirm this?
The one of the fuel lines from the tank is fastened with a spring clamp, the other is a quick disconnect. Is it supposed to be like that or did the PO turn this into a fuel hazard?
Y'all see any issues with the gas tank? Some flaky metal around the pump,etc.

My next steps are to drop the spare tire, fuel tank, exhaust pipe, and remove the drive shafts. I'm going to replace the carrier bearing and all four u-joints. I'm also going to try replacing the clutch and flywheel while i have the extra elbow room to work under there.