Rust repair project (and a buch of other stuff)- my build thread?

The quick disconnect is the pressure side to the engine, the spring clamp is the return from the fuel pressure regulator bypass.

It's is bent from the factory, from the photo the shape looks correct.

Clean it up and inspect it for leaks, if you are not confident you can have it smoke tested, also, were there any codes from the ECU?

If you remove the bumper and both rear cross members be aware that the weight of the cab on the two rear cab mounts will cause deflection as they push out on the top of the rails, it's like they are falling outward, I installed a spreader bar across the forward bed mounts before removing the cross members to insure there was no spreading. In your case, where you are replacing the rails at mid cab you should have very detailed measurements to help find perfect zero at reassembly, also jack stands to support the cab at the correct height or even slightly above the height at the start, just enough to remove the pressure from the weight of the cab.

 

Thanks for the advice. I’m going to take it slow and meticulous when I take it apart. Measure and support everything proper. I wasn’t aware of the potential spread so thanks forthat info. The only code I’m getting is P0135 for the upstream O2 sensor. I have a sensor replacement but haven’t stuck it in yet.

 

Also, my new crossmembers arrived. Ones got a powdery coating on it. I’ll probably spray it flat black before install.

 

How will you deal with the cross member under the back of the cab? The cross member that carries the front gas tank mounts. Check to see if is bolted in place or welded in place, also inspect it to see if it needs replacement. I fabricated a new one for mine.

 

It’s mostly solid, welded in, might be a bit weak on the ends. I ordered the end reinforcements for that member from safe-t-caps. I’ll clean it up, corroseal it and reuse it on the new rails.

Good news: the spare winch is not rusted. And I got the evap canister off. One of the mounting brackets for it is salvageable.

 

Those end caps actually just arrived

 

Todays progress:

Removed gas tank

Cut out muffler/exhaust pipe

Disconnected brake lines, lspv, and e-brake cable from rear axle

disconnected all the brackets etc holding the brake lines, e-brake cable, and wiring harness all the way up the rail.

Painted new crossmembers, rustoleum flat black plus matte clear.

Coated drive shaft with corroseal. Now it looks/feels like a seasoned cast-iron skillet. I wanted to corroseal to have a better surface to make my alignment marks before removing it.

The new gas tank strap lacks the mounting points for the skid plate bolts, so I might see if I can salvage the old one, we’ll see after I coat it with corroseal.

 

A lotta work, but you're lookin good so far, you have a bunch of nice parts to work with, hopefully it goes smoothly for you.

I use a product that is similar to Corroseal, it's called Krudkutter Rustex, rust convertor. For paint I use Rustoleum black epoxy appliance paint, spray cans. Seems that most of those products work fairly well at preserving metal as long as the prep work is good before application, removing scaling is paramount to getting a good finish. I have a friend who busts on me about painting, he never paints his repairs, as for me, I don't see how trying to preserve my hard work is a waste, all that effort needs to be protected.

 

Oh I agree, I’ll probably have all the new and old metal repainted before it’s all done.

@Sweet Crude, what do you think of this? I’m getting a used LSPV assembly to replace this hunk of rust. The connections from the long brake lines are seized to the LSPV and the junction blocks at the front end. Since I’m doing an ABS delete, and doing some brake line plumbing anyway, I figure I can cut the long lines off at the end and fab new end sections to the lines with a coupling when I go to reinstall it. I also need to replace that flex hose from the LSPV, the top end is seized to the bracket which is seized to the rail. The bottom connection is loose though, I was able to get it off.

 

Brake mechs tip: Heat the fittings with a propane torch and quench with ice cold water and they'll come right loose, works for bleeders too, aim your heat away from anything plastic or rubber, shield with sheet metal or a soaking wet rag, or both.

 

I’ll give that a shot and report back

 

No pics atm, sorry. But yesterday I removed the driveshafts and center bearing, rear bumper, and hidden hitch. I also got the nuts off my exhaust header studs with no issues. But I need a star socket to get the studs out so I can remove the header completely. (New exhaust coming with this build). Do y'all think it would be a good idea to weld the hidden hitch back on or try to retrofit it with new bolts? While I have my welder there I feel like it would be no problem.

Deconstruction plan:
My plan is to cut and remove/reinstall one rail at a time. I'll put jack stands in front of the forward spring mounts, and a 4x4 under the tail end of the rails to support them for spring/axle removal. I'll also post jack stands just after the transmission cross member to support for the cut. There's a seam on the inboard side of the rails just aft of the e-brake spring lever. That's where I plan to cut/weld the new rail in. I'll also disconnect the cab mounts and lift it a few inches up. I'll wedge a 2x4 between the cab and rail forward of the cut, and support the back end of the cab with a 4x4 and jackstand so it's not bearing weight on the ends of the rails to be cut. New cab mount bushings will be installed.

I'll cut/unbolt the three rear cross members from one rail and temporarily support the loose ends with 2x4s, then cut one rail out and weld the new one in. Repeat on the other side, then rebolt/weld new cross members in.

 

If it were me, having the parts you have, I would build the new frame out on the floor and install it as one complete unit, I would install all three cross members, the two that bolt in and the one that welds in, then lift it into place and check for square and level, then weld the seams and fish plate.

 

Do you think that would be manageable without a lift or hoist? All I have to work with is a floor jack, some scissor jacks, a bottle jack, and jack stands. What would be the major advantage of doing it that way?

 

Firstly, it's lot easier to weld in the forward cross member while it's not under the cab.

I would lay it out on a flat surface, bolt in the two rearward cross members first and square it up, then weld in the forward cross member.
Then center the the jack on the rearmost cross member and lift to height and block, allowing for adjustment with shims. Then do the same with the forward cross member, shim to level and tack weld, double check for correct positioning, assuring that it is level and square, and then weld off.

 

Makes sense. Do you reckon it would be a dumb idea to reattach the rear frame to the axle and wheel it underneath? Ultimately I'll let my welder make the decision on how to tackle it since he'll be doing the hard work there.

 

That could work, assuming tire pressures are equal and again, being certain that everything is square and level.

 

Say, tire pressure adjustments would be one way to level things out. Of course, scooting that axle laterally would be difficult.

 

Get 'er done.....

 

Today I got all the cab mount bushings disconnected, and lifted the cab about 4 inches. I placed wood spacers between the cab and the rails. Unfortunately I forgot to remove the front bushing bolts and they’re binding in the holes and won’t come out. So tomorrow I’ll probably lower it back down and push those front bushing bolts out. If they’re still stuck I’ll try to push em up with a puller. After that I’ll jack up the rear and remove the u-bolts.