Rust?

Already started

 

Supposed to be clear next week

 

Did you forget this quote ? It irritate the eyes and lungs. I suggest that is a health hazard for the person applying it..true ?
What statement have I made that was false in any other the posts.
And, if it washes off with a pressure wash, I don't believe it can be as effective as you imply as an undercoating...this means that as long as you think it's applied, you should not wash your car in a car wash but only light rinse it. Why ? I will answer that. It is a liquid wax base protectorant and like an ordinary wax job on the finish of your car, has to be reapplied whenever you power wash it. no more, no less. By how much do you think the wax job is removed by going through a puddle at 60 mph ? It 's still just a liquid wax job that cost the car owner big money.

 

Hey OZ.. I think this guy forgot to wear his breathing mask last time he did the spraying....!!

 

Hey DoorDing... Don't knock Maple syrup on your mac & chees till you try it...!! MMMMMM good.

I love maple syrup with my Vodka on the rocks also...!!

Try it..

 

*Kraft Dinna

 

If in a hurry...Kraft Dinna.... but the good stuff takes my ole' lady a few hours to make..... to die for..!!

 

I would bail out of a discussion too if I promoted a frame undercoating that couldn't take a car wash. You might want to rethink your rust proffing solutions and not depend upon commercializations and smart ass answers and instead, talk about worthwhile scientific solutions. Waxing your frame has limited benefits. Read your own ads closely.
Btw,
"Adds " is correct if you are talking about add ons which indeed FF is for your solution to rust prevention.

 

the rust stop device i employed is just a start to curbing the rust issues. bowling lane wax works pretty well. a small amount will spread over a large area. water displacement batch #40 is a cleaner. being petroleum based it works as a lube for a short time but it washes off. used oil is ok depending on how bad it is, it can have corrosive properties better to use fresh oil/wax combo. To each their own . North east winters and driving through the ocean have taken a toll on all my trucks. bowling lane wax has worked well for me in the past. (rust stop) cathodic protection is a new thing I'm trying to combat the salt. being i drive on or in the ocean.

 

Ok here goes my first post. Prospective 2016 Tacoma TRD OR DCLB 4x4 Auto Tow, Premium & Tech with JBL Quicksand Ext. - Graphite Int. build date 11/4 on deposit. Previous history 4 pickup campers that lived on the Cape Cod Nat. Seashore about 4 solid months of every year along with normal winter driving New England salted roads. My passions - Striper fishing and Scuba Diving and my trucks lived in and around salt water (literally ) almost as much as they where out of it. To say rust prevention was necessary is an understatement.

DoorDing, I know a thing or two about wax treatments as my Brother in Law and I used to melt wax and mix it into motor oil and use a compressor / HP sprayer to COMPLETELY cover everything. We then would check after a week or so and go back and open any drain holes to allow water to drain and air to circulate as necessary to help dry enclosed areas. To environmentally sensitive persons I will just say it was during less environmentally aware times and leave it at that.

DoorDing - two quotes.

“What's wrong with you? You specifically cited "FF" in the post I responded to, which is why I corrected your misinformation about it again. The manufacturer made a direct comment about NOT applying Fluid Film as you said should be done. Stop making up stuff about Fluid Film, and I'll stop correcting you. It's really that simple.”

“What can I use to spray FLUID FILM in its bulk form? Will a pump up sprayer work?

No. The most efficient way to apply FLUID FILM in its bulk form is with the use of standard airless paint spraying equipment. Airless paint sprayers operate under high pressure, usually between 1500 - 3500 PSI, which atomize paint into tiny droplets, propelling them towards the desired equipment. We recommend a minimum of around 2000 PSI. Applied at a film thickness of 3 - 4 mil, this will cover approximately 250 sq. ft. per gallon. We also recommend a spray tip of between 515 -517 for best atomization.”

Now my question to you is this. WHY THEN DO THEY SELL SAID PRODUCT IN SPRAY CANS AND A BRUSH ON APPLICATION
Well I can only guess that the profit/cost equation comes into play if it is sold in other forms other than the one they deem more efficient.

Yes they state above that the most efficient way to apply said product is with a sprayer with 1500 - 3500 PSI. I believe the reason for this is twofold.
1st - Cost effectiveness higher coverage with a thinner application.
2nd - Thinner application equals less chance of product clogging holes

No I have not used the product although I think it is probably sufficient in the right areas which would be an area with no chance of pooling or closing drain holes as over 45 years of experience has taught me THAT lesson. And Lanolin (wax) Wool Wax conjures up a picture of fibers(wool) mixed with wax (Lanolin) which I think would clog drain holes and cause other problems if appropriate steps are not taken.
Can not wait for my new TACOMA !

 

lol chevy? they rust just as bad. I see 2 year old chevys already rusting.
whether it be north american or japanese they all suck.
especially if you dont rust proof it.

nothing beats the germans. 06 Jetta TDI and not a spec of rust on it. winter driven every year. hell even my 1990 corrado I had, had very very minimal rust on it.

one of my friends has a 1980s audi 90, not a spec of rust on it. he swears by krown rust proof. Then again so do I. every car I've owned, once a year I do krown. cost you $80 a year and I never deal with rust even with winter driving.

 

DoorDing - I was trying to add a little levity ( fibers / wool ) to my description of Fluid Film. As far as usage in the various forms sold I was bringing up the point that yes they " recommend " High pressure application. But would not a Pump Sprayer work equally well as the brush on application or spray can as I personally use various pump sprayers that work as well as any spray can. I have a friend that uses Fluid Film religiously and his only complaint is that it wears off too easily driving off-road. Just goes to show everything has it pluses and minuses considering how it is used.
The key to any rust prevention maintenance is religious inspection and reapplication of WHATEVER is used. Hence my use of wax and oil twice a year if needed, I also smeared grease on weld joints, bolts ect followed up with monthly checks. My frames with 125,000 miles of beach use had almost zero rust. Maybe OCD but it worked. Oil / Wax is fairly cheap but considering time ect I may have to look up this krown product
Thanks for the welcome and if I offended you it was not my intention to do so. I am so looking forward to the Tacoma, I love my 05 F 350 Dually Diesel Crew Cab SB but she is expensive to run / maintain LMAO.

 

Thanks for the TacoGlenn thread, looks like a lot of reading there.

 

You are right to disregard used (motor) oil which is NEVER OK. Used motor oil has carcinogens and depending upon the water and other particles in suspension, may not be as good an insulator which it must be to discourage rust. When you put oil in the crank case of a car, then use it, what comes out has many different properties becasue of the combustion process. Do not use it under any circumstances. New biodegradable oils and some other options are not that expensive and easy to apply.

Synthetic base oil has actually tested with medium biodegradability but there are many products that are completely safe.
Wheel bearing (red/clear ) grease is formulated to resist extreme conditions and still retain it's properties and makes an excellent rust preventive on areas you can reach and paint with a foam brush. I use it on skid plates especially and it's quite durable.

 

Soon....regarding this Amsoil stuff, is there a certain temperature range in which you can apply it? My truck is not due in until the middle of November, and by then it will be 50 F, max, if not in the 40s at times. Do I have to wait it out until spring?

 

My old chevy full size didn't rust badly. I had that thing for almost 11 years

 

Didn't rust badly ? Bet it bubbled around fenders, rockers and was worth much less then not....it depends on where you live. In southern states any rust in ten years is unacceptable...Tacoma bodies other then frames tend to do well around fenders. In Maine, Friends gmc truck was uninspectsble at 7 years. It was only salvageable for the diesel engine and drive train. A $45 k truck at today's prices worth almost nothing in seven years.

 

What is this snow you speak of?

 

Fluid film works really good, even just using the spray cans. Like he said doesn't clog anything. Sprayed everything on a 2014 f150 including the leaf springs, and to get inside the frame and other hard places, the 17 inch hose they sell for the cans is perfect. Year and a half no rust on anything, and most of the fluid film is still on there. Just did my 15 Tacoma with fluid film, and this stuff with there 17 inch hose can get into any spot you need. Also works great for getting inside doors tailgate and all those body plugs underneath.

 

Chainsaw bar and chain oil is popular here in Vermont as an oil undercoating due to it's added stickiness. Both Stihl and Husqvarna make vegetable oil based versions which should satisfy those who are opposed to using a petroleum product.