Rusted clutch slave lines

Greetings all..My taco, 2008 popped a line on the slave cylinder today..The pedal went right to the floor..stayed there. Under truck showed me that the line at theback of the slave had popped..My question is..How do I bleed the system after changing the affected tubing?..The Master is hanging on the clutch pedal?? I see no way to get fluid into it to suck through to the bleeder on the slave..AND..what keeps my clutch pedal up after everything is bled properly?? I know I can do it if I understand the system better...Thanks for the help.

 

Trying to remember, when I did my clutch master cylinder, it pulls fluid from the brake fluid reservoir. Bleeding was a pain. I even bench bled the new master cylinder. It took some time and lots of pumping the pedal to finally get it bled. It might be easier with a vacuum pump or pressure bleeder, not sure.

If you haven’t done it already, now would be a good time to do the accumulator delete mod.

 

Just replace the line, fill with fluid, and bleed like the brake system. Master will draw fluid from the reservoir.

 

what is the accumulator delete mod..I don't seem to remember a hose going from my brake master cylinder down to the clutch master on the clutch pedal. If that hose was there, I would simply bend some tubing, flare it, install it, and bleed the slave with my vac bleeding tool. I saw an ad for a LUX prefilled line..is that the accumulator delete mod? If so, do I have to order that part..or must I replace the clutch master with one that will accept the hose from the brake master? I have never worked with this system before.. but am able and willing to get after it.

 

Accumulator delete mod is a modification that deletes the accumulator, that thing down by the clutch slave cylinder, you'll see the line coming down from the master cylinder, into the accumulator, out of the accumulator, into the clutch slave cylinder. It does away with the vague feeling in the clutch. Contact trident904. Or search adm. You didn't post pictures, the line you need to replace might be the one replaced with the kit.

Believe me, you don't want to replace your clutch master cylinder if you don't need to. It is possible to do but what a major headache. I think, since your brake fluid dumped out, you'll still be ok with the abs. I think it drains out a chamber in the brake fluid reservoir which wouldn't affect the abs going dry, which would have caused another issue. I should say, won't cause an issue with the abs. When I did mine, I didn't have any abs problems.

Bleeding with a vacuum bleeder could be done down at the slave cylinder but you might needed to do a few times the old fashioned way to get the last bit of air out.

 

Oops, 2.7 might be different, sorry.

 

this is my brake cylinder.I do not see the hose. What do I do to get my clutch activated after I bend up a line to replace the one that popped..How do I bleed the system..do I have to take the clutch pedal out?

 

or..Is it easier to put stock components back in and bleed it from the clutch slave..I am at a loss as to how the clutch could be more vague than it is now.

 

see the black hose with the spring clamp on the right side of the picture, left side of the reservoir? I'm pretty sure that's the hose that terminates at the clutch master cylinder. Once you have your new pipe, or adm installed, add brake fluid to the reservoir so that front chamber has fluid to the top. 2 person procedure, 1 is under at the clutch slave cylinder bleeder and dressed ready to get brake fluid all over your face, hands, arms, arm pits. 2 pumps the pedal up and down by hand, then holds it down. 1 opens and closes the bleeder, nothing will probably come out at first. Repeat over and over, every so often, 2 goes to add fluid to the reservoir. slowly, pressure will build, 2 will feel tension pushing down, slowly it'll start wanting to spring back up. once you begin to feel it springing back up, another step you could try. stick a hose on the bleeder nipple, it needs to fit the nipple tightly, clear hose is better to see what's going on, stick the other end in a container with a little clean brake fluid in it. Open the bleeder, pump the pedal up and down, might need to go back to hand. you'll see air bubbles coming out as you push down on the pedal, then draw back up a little as you pull the pedal up. so say for example, it'll push out a teaspoon, it'll draw back up 1/3 teaspoon. no it's not going to be that exact amount, but you'll see what I mean when you do it. eventually, you'll see no air coming out. tighten the bleeder, maybe pump and open a couple more times, you should be ok then.

Anyone who wants to add to the above, or say it's wrong do it this way instead, I welcome the critizism. Always room to learn something new.

 

Thank you a lot..I see what you saw..The big rubber hose with spring hose clamp goes right to the firewall..I bet there is a master cylinder on the other side..So the tube I need to make is just a U shaped tube about 8 inches long..fittings at both ends..one comes out of the slave..other goes to the bracket with short rubber hose..Awesome..again thanks a ton.!!! Radio bears Rule!