Rusty Bolts

getting my new suspension delivered in the next 2 weeks or so. I knew my shit was rusty, so tonight I figured I’d go see just HOW rusted on everything is. I started to strip just about everything I put a wrench on, so I just stopped messing with it. I’m going to get a couple wire brushes, clean everything up as much as possible and hit it with some PB Blaster. Wash rinse and repeat a couple times until all my stuff comes in. Just figured I’d come here to see if anyone has any other ideas/insight/suggestions. The strut assembly nuts, and the rear shock mount bolts are going to be the only thing holding the whole process up. I may go buy a torch tomorrow too.

 

Your plan is exactly what I do.
Penetrating Oil, brush, repeat.

I probably replace as many of the nits and bolts as I could, to reduce the risk of stripping them on install.

 

They’re definitely all getting replaced.

 

Yep, spray, brush, spray, brush, soak. After about a week of this, try putting a good 6 point box end wrench on them and go easy. Don't worry about the top hat nuts, just the strut and shock mounting nuts. You'll get it.
Before I resorted to cutting them off, I'd even use a little heat, in moderation.
Keep us posted!

 

been a mechanic for 30 years, best trick I have for seized bolts is heat with a propane torch then press a wax candle on to the hot nut, bolts that wont move will break free, the wicking action of the wax actually penetrates the threads. i did it today working on a 05 jag exhaust studs.
I have no faith in liquid penetrating products, never seen any bolts removed that showed the liquid actually wetted the threads.
this also works really well on brake fittings so you dont twist the line when backing off the fitting,
note: if the bolt is too hot the wax just burns off, and sometimes might take a couple attempts, but always works

 

also as mentioned above wire brush the exposed threads first

 

Interesting Video, Penetrating Oil Comparison:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs

 

I really like the ATF and paint thinner 50/50 mix..that said, heat is your friend. They can't be a rusty stuck bolt if they're liquid

 

No shit?! Thanks for sharing, never heard this and will definitely try sometime

 

Interesting test and video. But let's look at the process he used. Over a period of 3 hours, he applied each product 3 times. Then he attempted to remove the stuck fastener(s). The soak time is critical to any of these products having even half a chance to work.

How do most folks use a penetrating oil type product? They spray some on and immediately grab a wrench and attempt to remove the fastener. (Zero soak time.) Or, they apply a penetrant, then heat the fastener with a torch. This of course just rapidly evaporates the product. (I'll bet applying a torch to the ATF / Acetone mixture would yield an interesting result though.)

So the members here who have suggested applying a penetrant a number of times over a period of several days before attempting to remove a corroded fastener are maximizing the chances of any product actually working. Those who simply spray and wail will see almost no benefit other than if the fastener breaks free, the exposed threads are somewhat lubricated.

 

If all else fails....cut off wheel....and please don't remove the nut in the center (I'm sure you already know that)

 

I’d like to see a video of this, haven’t heard of it before.

 

I think time and PB Blast is your friend here, as you’re already doing. As @Too Stroked stated, I don’t think people let the penetrating fluids sit long enough on stuck bolts. Good thing is that you can easily access the rusty bolts, so I say spray it regularly before the project. Not sure if you’ve ordered new top hats, but this is the set I ordered:

KYB SM5640 Mount Kit

$39 KYB SM5640 - Mount Kit

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7S0KA8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_7nTOEbKD97T7S

They’re made in India, not sure if that’s better than China as far as quality, but at least India didn’t send COVID-19 our way.

 

Hey OP, as someone already suggested, you can cut off those rear bolts. IIRC, I used a reciprocating saw on the area surrounded by the rubber bushing (it was about a year ago). Someone please correct me if this is an unsafe practice because I don’t want to give out bad suggestions.

Used a hacksaw blade and took about 5-10 minutes, allowing some rest time so the blade and saw didn’t get to hot. Good luck!

 

For the rears I would just cut the top off either with a sawzall or an angle grinder.

The front, I'd just continue to soak with a penetrating oil every day leading up to the install. I would also go buy a 6 point wrench (you need 14mm). These have a lesser chance of rounding out the bolt vs a 12 point. A 9/16 wrench may even be better because it's 14.28mm and will give you the tiniest bit of extra clearance to get over all that rust.

 

haha I just realized who you were. If you're still planning on coming over, we will get that thing undone one way or another. I have an oxy acetylene torch, spring compressor, air hammer, welder, a few guns, etc.

 

Well, at least now I have an excuse to go buy another tool. I have neither an angle grinder or a sawzall with me here in Virginia. Have a good 6 point box end wrench and just picked up a small propane torch. I’ll spend the next few weeks cleaning it all up, and trying to rock them back and forth a little. My biggest concern is the nut in back of the strut assembly, closest to the wheel well.

 

good deal. I’ve bought a few tools since then too. All of my suspension stuff should be here within the next 2 weeks. Just waiting on the Dakars to ship.

 

heat took mine off perfectly... map gas torch

 

Top of the rear shocks will be the bitch here.
I just did this and was lucky enough to have the use of a heat induction tool (check them out/expensive). This thing is the best.
Good luck with those nuts. And yes, leave the top-hat nut alone
.