Rusty Bolts

I had a similar problem on my 05. Plenty of PB and cleaning, and after the initial failed attempts, I got a 6 point socket. I don't know the terminology here, but I used a grinder to flatten the bezel on the socket to get more surface area on the nut. Once I had that they gripped and came right out.

 

The cool little tid bits you find here on Tacomaworld... I live in the rust belt and found penetrating oil ain't shit.... Just get the torch.... And a 6 point socket..

 

IF you round off the head some thing like this works great. I got the craftman one awhile ago
https://www.amazon.com/slp/damaged-bolt-nut-remover/r79juzyjjo4e39a

 

Similar to heating and having wax wick into the threads, I've had some success with using anti-seize compound just like the wax.

When you have removed the bolt or nut in question, it's best to use a new replacement if possible. If not, chase the threads and use anti-seize compound to install. A tap or die will work in a pinch but it's best to use a thread chaser to clean up the threads......

 

I too don't have much faith in the penetrating oil soaking into the threads, but I do use it to soften the crap in the exposed threads. Then you can continue to brush that crud out with a small wire brush.
Where I think the penetrating fluid really helps, is once you get the nut to move just a little, you can work it back and forth and the oil will keep the nut and stud from galling on each other as much. I've had nuts like this come loose, only to be a bitch the entire length of the stud. If you get the threads a little cleaned up before hand and keep them soaked while removing, it will make your life easier.

 

I’ve been soaking, and spraying, and brushing since 0600 this morning. All 3 on the drivers side strut assembly broke loose. On the passenger side, the one closest to the wheel well still doesn’t want to move, so I’m not quite sure what I’m going to do about that yet. The left rear shock broke loose. The right side however, the little nubbie on top you’re supposed to hold and loosen while loosening the nut sheered right off, so I think I’ll be cutting that shock out .....I’ve been wanting a new sawzall anyway. I’m only doing all of this now so in a couple weeks, come install day, I’ll have (most) of the swearing out of the way. I still have the UCA bolts though, so.....

 

X2 on the rear.

 

Might I recommend a corded Milwaukee. I have it and it’s a beast of a sawzall.

 

I was just comparing the Milwaukee to the DeWalt. I’m thinking Milwaukee if for no other reason than it comes with a case.

 

I've heated til red hot and sprayed with water - that has worked many times but I'd love to try your method - first I've heard of it thanks.

 

If I can’t get it broke loose by install day, I may try something like that. It’s in a REALLY shitty location.

 

If you’re still planning on coming over, I was thinking I’d just use the oxy torch to literally turn the stud/nut into a puddle of molten metal and blast it away. Just turn it into nothing. Not sure if you were trying to save these coilovers but they’ll come off one way or another.

 

Fellow rust belter here:

I use the 50-50 acetone and ATF when I see a big challenge coming. Just don't mix up much at once. The acetone evaporates. Kroil seems to be pretty decent. Worth the money...? Looks a lot like thinned ATF.

Like has been said, things like PB really help make removal, once loosened, much easier/faster, but marginal as far as being "why it broke loose".

I've used the wax trick on brake bleeder screws with some success. Not always, but often enough to keep trying it.

Heat of course is always good when it can be used without danger or damaging other parts.

Vibration in the form of hitting/tapping while applying torque, or using an air or electric impact when you have the space to work. I have a 3/4 drive air impact from Rural King that has saved me many times. 3 forward/reverse settings and of course you can dial the air up/down to get safe torque levels.

 

What kind of beer do you prefer? I’m not saving anything. I’ve got all new stuff. HS 2” coils, 5100’s and freedom Offroad UCA’s up front. MD Dakars, and B110’s, per your advice in the back. Bump stops and a flip kit as soon as I can.

 

Dragons milk, total wine carries it. If you bring a 4 pack of that over I’ll cut off anything you need.

 

Deal.

 

Since we're sharing helpful hints on how to remove stubborn / rusted fasteners, here's one that's served me well over the years. After you've gotten the corroded fastener to break free and it starts to move, be careful. Many times it will move a little bit, then bind up. This is the corrosion breaking off and binding up the threads. When this happens, re-tighten the fastener just a bit to clear the threads. You may find that you have to loosen, tighten, loosen, repeat a number of times. If you don't stop and reverse direction, many times you will break the fastener free, only to break it off a moment later.

 

X2 - I've done this on fasteners that aren't rusted or corroded much at all when they don't turn CCW I'll try turning them CW a little then CCW and back'n forth - sometimes it works.

 

Make sure to use a 6 point socket and not one of the 12 points. The tool set I have has the 6 point only in the deep sockets. Less chancing of rounding off.