Rusty Timing Chain Cover Plate

I had trouble finding any answers on this, so I figured I would make a thread so someone else could find some answers.

This was done on an 06 TRD Off Road V6 AC W/ tow package(I believe the fan will look different). 136,000 miles. In the North East.
So here it goes.

Here is the problem:


A very rusty timing chain cover plate. This plate lets you access the timing chain tensioner. If it rusts enough, oil will leak from it.

It is located here:


Tools needed:

10mm socket
12mm wrench
14mm socket
flathead
impact driver would help
torque wrench
wire brush
PB Blaster or product of the like

Parts needed:

I ordered from villagetoyota.com

4 BOLTS (FOR FRONT DIFFERENTIAL BREATHER PLUG OIL DEFLECTOR)
P/N 9155180612 $ 0.59 ea.
1 GASKET, TIMING GEAR OR CHAIN COVER . (L)
P/N 113280P010 $8.40
1 PLATE, TIMING CHAIN COVER . (L)
P/N 113240P010 $7.01

Shipping was like $12 but it was worth it for me to not have to drive to the dealer.

Make sure to spray PB Blaster on the bolts ahead of time so it can soak in. I made sure to cover the belts below the bolts so they didn't get covered in PB Blaster.


First remove the 2 10mm bolts on the engine cover(circled in red) and the plastic clips with your flathead (circled in blue). Also disconnect the hose on the radiator overflow (circled in green). Remove the engine cover and the radiator cover.


Then remove the 2 10mm bolts on the radiator shroud( circled in yellow):


(Photo credit to BlazeAce)

(Photo credit to BlazeAce)

Then remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the fan on. This was a pain but it can be done using a wrench:

(Photo credit to BlazeAce)

Then remove the radiator shroud and fan at the same time. It will take some maneuvering but they will come out.

Now prep the bolts. Mine were rusty so I had to wire brush the rust off so the socket would fit over the heads well.

At this point, I drained my oil. I had to do an oil change anyway and I didn't want to find out if any oil would spill out from behind the plate.

Then use your socket or impact to remove the old 10mm bolts.

Old and the new:


Try to clean the area where the gasket will seat:


Install the new gasket and plate. Torque the bolts ~7 ft lb.

Re-install all the parts you took off in the prior steps.
torque specs: fan nuts: 18 ft lb, fan shroud bolts: ~4 ft lb.
The rest I just snugged to what I felt was sufficient.

All Done:


Now just finish your oil change.

Overall this was a relatively cheap and effective repair. Hopefully this thread will be helpful to someone.

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Nice write up and holy shit that was rusted

 

Great writeup!

What's to prevent the new cover from rusting again? Would painting or some other application help that?

 

I thought about that. I am going to wait and see if it starts to rust. I'm not sure if this metal is different than what they used back then.

 

I remember seeing the first thread you started about this. Glad to see you figured out what part you needed and nice writeup . Thanks for the pics with it.

 

Is your water pump leaking? A constant spray of coolant may cause this... It also looked like your coolant level may be low too... Just something to consider

 

I don't believe that the coolant is leaking onto the plate.
I did not drain the coolant overflow tank. It may be slightly low but I don't see that as a problem. I will probably change the coolant soon anyway.

 

The picture that shows the low coolant level is not my picture. Mine is at a healthy level.

 

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