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S/C Rebuild Interval/Symptoms

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by PathFinder1776, Mar 19, 2024.

  1. Mar 19, 2024 at 2:17 PM
    #1
    PathFinder1776

    PathFinder1776 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Colorado Front Range
    Vehicle:
    2003 DCSB TRD OR 4WD
    TRD S/C & TRD Boost Gauge Snugtop Topper Chevy 63 Swap, Gen 1 Raptor Shocks Boxed rear frame Aluminum F/R bumpers, sliders AEM 340 Fuel Pump Odyssey 27F Battery Shifted LCAs UCAs Icon 2.5 Ext. Coilovers
    Posted in S/C thread but seeking more attention...I'm not paying a shop to rebuild anything but the rotor pack. And if I can figure out how to time those I'll do that as well.
    I'm looking for some input on rebuild intervals and diagnosing when a supercharger is ready to be rebuilt. This is the second supercharged 1st gen I've had. All I had to do on the previous one was change the nose cone oil.
    When I bought this truck I was pretty certain it was due for a rebuild and promptly ordered a rebuild kit. It has parts needed to rebuild everything but the rotor pack.
    From the video below, would you say the supercharger is due for a rebuild? It seems a little on the noisy side at idle to me. No strange noises at higher RPM, and it's able to hit 6 PSI max boost. I haven't removed the belt to check for play in the nose cone yet. No idea how long the S/C has been on the truck. The PO owned it since 2008 when it was at around 100k miles; he never even changed the oil in the nose cone and it's at 205k now.
    Second, if it's due for a rebuild is it dumb to rebuild everything but the rotor pack? My plan would be to send the rotor pack in to a shop so they get re-timed properly and do the rest myself if it's necessary to do that as well.

    https://www.youtube.com/shorts/JW6sj9iI74o
     
  2. Mar 19, 2024 at 2:41 PM
    #2
    ChargedSHOTaco

    ChargedSHOTaco Well-Known Member

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    I'd rebuild the nose cone with new bearings, coupler, and oil and see how it is after that. It does not seem all that noisy to me.
    The replacing the bearings and coupler in the nose cone is an easy job if you have a press. Definitiely a DIY job.
     
    PathFinder1776[OP] likes this.
  3. Mar 20, 2024 at 7:11 AM
    #3
    PathFinder1776

    PathFinder1776 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    201
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    Male
    Colorado Front Range
    Vehicle:
    2003 DCSB TRD OR 4WD
    TRD S/C & TRD Boost Gauge Snugtop Topper Chevy 63 Swap, Gen 1 Raptor Shocks Boxed rear frame Aluminum F/R bumpers, sliders AEM 340 Fuel Pump Odyssey 27F Battery Shifted LCAs UCAs Icon 2.5 Ext. Coilovers
    Good, I'm glad it doesn't seem unusually noisy. That is my plan, looks like an easy job. Since the kit came with the rear needle bearings I'll probably just pull the whole thing and do those as well.
    The next big question I have is how often do the bearings in the rotor pack need to be replaced?
     
  4. Mar 20, 2024 at 7:25 AM
    #4
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

    Joined:
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    First Name:
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    Denver
    Vehicle:
    97 reg cab, v6 5sp 300hp supercharged, Methonal Injection, 800,001 plus miles, Original Owner
    V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger, 56mm pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC Tvs1320 supercharger,(MUST DO) every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 56mm custom pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ATM Pathfinders Dynopro ATM ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back dual exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks JBA UCA trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel, Haltech stand-alone ECU,
    I bought my supercharger 1st gen new in 1998 and put 700k miles on it with 5 rebuilds along the way, now I’m running the 1320
    supercharger.
    Out of those 5 rebuilds 2 were rotor pack bearings failed and one rotor pack seal failed and all the snout oil was getting sucked into the supercharger and I never saw a leak because it’s getting sucked into the engine. The rotor pack seals do fail over time and that’s why it’s important to check the level.
    The problem with the 1st gen supercharger is the rotor pack bearings are tack welded into place.

    if you don’t replace the rotor pack seals and bearings your still just running on borrowed time.

    the smaller the pulley the more wear and sooner a rebuild will be needed and 1st gen parts are hard to find if a part fails like the snout etc

    IMG_0098.png
     
  5. Mar 20, 2024 at 11:16 AM
    #5
    ChargedSHOTaco

    ChargedSHOTaco Well-Known Member

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    You can check to see if the rotors show signs of touching, if so, get the bearings replaced. I've always believed that when the rotor bearings are bad, the supercharger begins to sound louder at idle.

    Good watch here.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6T0rr0BTrA
     

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