Safest way to crack rear drum bleed screws

OK, I have neglected my rear brakes for a long time. They have never been touched except to inspect and adjust. Back when I did the fronts I bled and flushed the lines and calipers and wanted to bleed and flush the rear wheel cylinders. But the bleed screws were very tight such that my little flare wrench wasn't getting the job done and I was worried about rounding them. Thought about using vise grips or whatever but that might have broken them off.

I am thinking maybe a couple quick bursts with a 6-point socket on my 1/4" Makita impact tool. Maybe the impact would knock them loose? And I plan to have another wheel cylinder ready to go in rather than try to extract a broken bleeder and install a new one.

Anyone have any tips for this? What worked for you?

 

On stuck bleed screws I use a 6 point socket on a ratchet and will switch between loosening and tightening to break it loose. Though probably fine I would be very hesitant to use a impact wrench on any bleeder screw for fear of breaking it off.

 

Id think some heat on the bleeder would be a good idea too. If you're flushing the fluid anyway it doesnt matter if it gets hot

 

6 point socket and some luck. Wheel cylinders are cheap

 

Thanks, guys. I know the WCs are cheap. It's just that I haven't worked on drums for twenty years or more and having to put my DD Tacoma down for doing the work in my tiny garage. May have to wait for a nice spring week when I can take the Vette out.

 

Induction heater, Kroil or similar to shock the bleeder when hot, socket, remove, replace with one way bleeders that allow you to bleed them by yourself.

 

If it comes to vice grips, put a snug fitting drill bit backwards in the bleeders hole first.
A lot less chance of smashing the bleeder, and a lot better chance of getting it out in one piece.
Heat and good penetrating oil helps too.

 

Four or 5 days of penetrating oil for starters. No impact for me. Go easy.

 

Get a nut cracker

 

I actually have a set of speed bleeders in the bin that I think will work. When I bought them there wasn't a clear application listing for Tacoma so I am not 100% sure. I also have a Motive power bleeder.

 

I have one of those... what's her name? ;-)

 

I will try to crawl under and give them a spray now and then. Maybe by spring they'll be ready to crack open. :-/

 

Penetrant repeatedly over day’s first. If you already tried loosing you might have bent and weakened it so be prepared for it to snap off.

After penetrant treatment take your line wrench or a 6 point socket to it. Put tension on it and tie it off with string or something. I have some of those cam jam nitize things that work really good for that. Then just leave it sitting with tension. You can pluck the string like a guitar to check if the tension loosened.

 

Tighten first a hair. Plenty of lubricant as well.

 

mostly prayer at this point

 

When I know I'm going to mess with the brake bleeders I use a penetrating spray on them for about a week straight. Before I attempt to loosen them with a six-point socket or wrench I tap them with a hammer. I hear heat works but haven't had to use it. So far the penetrating sprays and tapping with a hammer have worked.

 

Put you a little snot on there..6 point socket

 

Here’s the cam jam nitize thing I mentioned. Makes it easy to hold tension, then make it a little tighter if needed.

 

I usually go with the “hope” method.
Hope it don’t break off.

6 point socket - And easy does it….

If it twist off, go with an extractor.
If that don’t work. Then plan C.

Plan C - New wheel cylinder

 

Alittle trick to replacing bleeders [or anything else where you need to crack the brake system] is to remove the brake fluid reservoir cover, fill it up, place a piece of plastic wrap [or even a plastic food bag] over the top and then replace the cover. That creates a ''fluid lock'' on the lower parts you are loosening or removing and slows the leakage of the brake fluid to almost nothing.
I do a water lock all the time replacing parts on water heaters and such, in a couple decades, I have only drained one before opening one up. As long as you have relieved the pressure, have all the faucets shut off, and shut off the incoming water, all you will get is a ''glug''................''glug''.................''glug.'' You may lose a pint of water if you are really slow and clumsy.

And never, EVER, re-install a rusty old bleeder you fought to get off, just replace the dang thing, they are cheap.