Salvageable? Or new to the truck engine? 3rz-fe blown head.

Hey everyone, first post but I've been learning a lot from all these threads. I've exhausted my knowledge and googling and I need some opinions on what I should do with this 3rz-fe. Some background: Head gasket was replaced at 160k -re-manufactured head, now has 196k radiator was cracked, temp came up but I shut it off before it "really" came up, radiator replaced, truck wouldn't start, compression was good ~160 in all 4, new spark plugs and it started but billowed white smoke - enough to bring the neighbors out. Additionally: oil pan leaks, valve cover leaked, rear main is good.

I pulled the head off today, cylinder 1 seems to have the issue but I can't find anything obvious with the gasket. I'm looking around the head for cracks but can't see any. Head isn't warped based off my carpenters square but I'll get some feeling gauges tomorrow and a real straight edge.

Anyways, I'm trying to figure out if I should continue with getting the head machined and putting the thing back together or putting a JDM in there, or pushing the thing off a cliff. I'm worried about a ton of oily gunk in the intake manifold (timing issue?) I don't think it burned oil, but can't really tell because of the oil pan leak. I read the thread on the oily gunk in the intake but this seems worse to me. Take a look at the photos, I'd love to hear what you guys have to say. Thanks for your help.

 

I used to use a piece of glass to see warpage.
Have to check the glass first but a good piece tends to stay that way. Just spray head and lay on the glass.

edit: I'm saying that wrong, lay the glass on the head. Poster below is pointing out the head gasket where the piston is clean. It does look bad and it HAS to be where water and oil are entering.....that's why the piston is 1/2 clean.

 

Head gasket is blown to the water jacket, can see the broken fire ring in you second pic

 

Hi! Don't know much about engine assembly. Where should I be looking? Just trying to learn.

 

I think you're right.

 

If it were me and I was looking for the most money-sense way to fix it? New head gasket and re-assemble.

 

Have the head checked for cracks, the 3rz and 2rz are known to crack in between the valves.

But yeah it looks like a classic head gasket failure.

 

Does this look worse than any other head gasket failure? Any idea about the oily gunk in the intake? It looks particularly bad on the #1 cylinder intakes. From my slight knowledge of this they seem to be un-related?

The glass is a good idea.

 

PCV gunk in the intake is normal, they all look grungy at this age.

 

Thanks for your help.

 

I second the check for cracks/warpage in the head... don't be surprised if it has to be replaced. 196k on the odo... you got another 100k in that motor.

 

Heads in the machine shop now. Machinist said it would be worth it to pull the rest of the engine out, take the oil pan off and check the crank shaft bearings. There was a solid amount of coolant in the oil pan before oil started pouring out. I guess I could go either way but I've already come this far. And well, if the engine's out might as well reman it... Thoughts on this?

 

My thoughts are your bottom end is likely fine but it can't hurt to check it, maybe do it yourself with plastigage.

 

Well pulled the engine without the transmission today. Wasn't too difficult with the radiator off. Having the head off helped to get the top bolts off the bell housing. I'm going to look at the crank shaft bearings now. Any other advice there besides plastigage?

 

It all depends how much coolant might have mixed with the oil.

Then how long the engine was run did the engine quit or did you shut it off??

If the crank takes all standard bearings since things are apart I myself would replace them.

Your head being good is a plus.

 

Well here is the number 3 bearing and crank. There are visible grooves. And the fingernail hangs up on them. I suspect this is not normal. Getting down to choices here. Have this engine re-manufactured, turn the crankshaft etc., put a JDM in there, or a 200k motor from the salvage yard.

Can someone confirm these grooves look no good? I just pulled the bearing #3. I'll do the rest tomorrow.

 

if your fingernail hangs on them there is a problem. As to which way to go... age old battle of time against money.

 

It truly looks fine to me, I've seen lots of bad bearings. Is it a bit worn, sure, but not to the point where it would be making any noise or self destructing. Could always have the crank polished and put fresh bearings in, that's the cheapest option. You'd be hard-pressed to find a high mileage engine that didn't have where that looks like yours

 

Some trucks at 200,000 just are getting broke in others are held together with bailing wire and duct tape.

Is the rest of the truck worth all the engine work ?? Only you can know.

See what the rest of the bearings look like.We all have different standards I started working with 500 hp plus engines so any groves one felt meant time for new bearings .

How much money is in the budget ??I am guessing on a rebuild your only looking at parts and machine shop work.

How much down time can the vehicle have without major hardship ??

Comes down to time or money

also what are your plans keep the truck for another 200,000 miles or more

Best of Luck !

 

Throw a low mileage factory motor in it, there are plenty of them around. If the head is warped, machining the bottom does not fix the top of the head that will also be warped and the cams will not run true. Everybody thinks that resurfacing the bottom is all you have to do on a warped head and the reality is the top of the head is warped too. Put a straight edge on the top of head and you will see.