Salvageable? Or new to the truck engine? 3rz-fe blown head.

A solid option from zooma-loom because coolant is a lousy lubricant. I'n never trust a block that had coolant in the oil pan if it was driven for any distance. I've seen people slap an engine back together after block contamination with coolant and get a couple years out of it. Will it work? Sure, will it last as long as an engine never having had coolant in the block? Nope, not if it was driven any distance with coolant mixed with oil.

Mark

 

The machinist should be able to tell you if the head is good.

More important than the bearings is the crank journals. if they have grooves. Problem.

Bearings are soft and supposed to take the brunt of an event like this. If crank and rods ok. I'd throw in some bearings. if just a slight imperfection on journals, some have used emory pads like 6K grit.

Plastigage is for reassembly really but if you notice the shells (bearings) will have a Mark. I,II,III etc. or a,b,c, etc. after the size, std,.010.020. (Factory should always be std. but sometimes things happen in machining they fix at plant. Make sure you get the same Marks and things should be fine as far as clearance.

The bad? Sometimes there are like (2) Mark II's and (2) Mark I's and if I remember right, you can only buy Japanese parts in sets, Like (4) Mark I's. or else you have to buy each cylinder pair individualy, this is why import rebuilding is prohibitively expensive. Parts.

I remember a whole set of Chrysler pistons were as cheap as 1 Toyota a long time ago. I doubt it's better now.

 

I decided to go with a salvage yard engine. 1500 for 153k. Hope it goes for a while longer. This project is eating up too much of my time. Is this old engine worth anything?

 

Until you look at it, or really really trust the salvage shop....maybe. Be cautious and ask if they can pull compression numbers for you (sometimes they can/will if the engine is still in the vehicle). The numbers should be close to even across the cylinders, and within Toyota spec.

A disclaimer is that I'm cautious and I always plan for failure. If I'm OK with the worst-case scenario then I go for it. Most of the time I end up better than worst-case.

Mark

 

The truck drove into the salvage yard with a rear end collision. Compression was 200 across all 4. Which is higher than the original specs, so kinda sketchy. And they pulled the oil pan off and there is no metal shavings etc in there.

So I can trust it or not, what's a man to do but believe them. 90 day warranty. I'll get my hands on it tomorrow.

Any thoughts as to pulling the transmission and then putting the engine and transmission back in as one assembly or trying to fit the engine to the transmission when its mounted?

 

Ask them how they resealed the pan.

I think the trans./eng. combo is too long to go in together.

 

Ok good to know. I'll ask them how they resealed it. Odds are they might not have.

 

I don't trust the word of anyone is what I'm getting at. I seriously doubt they looked inside.

 

I get what you're saying. I'll ask some probing questions. Thanks for the advice.

 

Ok so I took a look at the engine and it looks like it's in good condition. It has the wiring harness with it. So here's my next question, I've done some searching on the forums here but haven't found a clear answer:
My truck: 2000 3rz (coil cluster on the front passenger side: looks like two coils for 4 sparks. Excuse my lack of correct terminology, manual transmission

The engine from salvage lot: 2002 3rz PreRunner (4 coil type with the connectors at the top of each spark tube) Automatic transmission. Comes with the wiring harness.

Is this going to be a huge pain in the a$$ to do this swap? I was hoping for plug and play but it doesn't appear to be that way. Do I need the ECU from the truck the engine came from? Can I use the ECU I have now in the truck and leave the automatic transmission stuff unplugged with the new wiring harness? Any thoughts here would be much appreciated. I'm quickly feeling overwhelmed.

 

How much is a JDM engine?

 

1000 or less usually for a 3RZ, trick is getting the right one since there are 3 different ignition system styles and some ports are missing on the later ones if you have a dizzy model.

 

All the 3rz's that I've come across are 2200 shipped, no core charge.

 

If you can find one for a grand, send it my way please.

 

They tend to pop up from our local importers. They're infrequent but at least every other month a 3 or 2 rz will pop up. I don't think they buy a lot of them, not high failure rate and not a desirable engine like the RB and JZ engines they typically bring over.

 

So any advice on this "2coil" to "4 coil" type wiring harness?

 

2 coil and 4 coil isn't a hard change, really just need to keep your coils and valve cover and swap em over. The distributor Tacomas are the only engine you don't want if you have a coil tacoma

 

If I can find a place to mount my "two coil" system then I could use the s

How about the cam position sensor? On the 4 coil the head isn't drilled for the cam position sensor like it is on the 2 coil?

 

The 2 and 4 coils both have the side of the head hole for the cam sensor, the dizzy Tacomas do not

 

This is relieving some stress. Thanks.