San Luis Obispo to La Paz (Baja Sur) - March 2024

This has been a wonderful read. Thank you for putting the time in!

 

In the morning, I picked-up and set off - still without a complete decision made as to what my direction for the day would be... My options were:

A.- Head West from San Javier following a ranch dirt track heading West which runs along, and along the creek bed which leads to another dirt track that eventually leads to the main road running along the pacific coast. This road is not passable after rains, so it is hit or miss.

B.- Backtrack to Loreto heading East going down the mountains I climbed last night; and take a detour to Puerto de Agua Verde. A small, secluded, and picturesque bay that is popular with Sailors (well protected from winds), but difficult to reach by land.

I asked my hosts (Gen 2 Taco owners) for insight on the condition of the road heading West and I was told that it was in good condition. The road follows what is basically a ravine carved by the water flow. It had apparently suffered from the winter season's rains, but work had recently been undertaken to repair the washed out portions.

Heading west was my original plan, and I was excited about this route. Spending a night in Agua Verde was one a not-to-be-missed portion of the SAILING version of my itinerary - Agua Verde is easy as anywhere on the coast to visit from the water, but visiting there by land is a bit more challenging due to the rough track leading there, and this had occurred to me quite late in my planning. In any case, it seemed I was heading WEST.

I was out of town limits in no time. The road went into the creek bed straight away. There was not a lot of flow, but there was plenty of water. The road was in great shape when not in the water or crossing. The crossings were not in bad shape at all.

A view down-river at one of the crossings:



I went past a few ranches and took in the scenery:



The sun struggles to reach the valley floor due to tall escarpments. It is very pretty and lots to see, and very little traffic. It was very green due to recent seasonal rains. I saw only one other vehicle (An old Hilux) while on this road.

I dodged many goats, donkeys, chickens, pigs, cows, etc. Otherwise, the road is not very busy - with vehicles.


It was very enjoyable, pretty, and peaceful. but after a while of this, I stopped and turned around... Puerto de Agua Verde kept calling. I really wanted to see what it would be like for a sailboat. I gave in. - Back down the hill towards the East I go.



This time I was heading East towards the Sea of Cortez visible in the distance.




I stop at Loreto to top-off fuel and get some insight into the road conditions to Agua Verde. I ran into some soldiers also fueling-up.
Note the Army issue Pooch in the back of the HUMVEE.




- And I was off down the coast:



The Authorities

- The military
I went through some 6-7 military checkpoints each direction (same ones on the way down & back - but you can see empty locations where they sometimes set-up...). They are not interested in bothering tourists. But they will search some folks at random, if you are loaded to the hilts, or if they sense anything sketchy.

You do not want to get caught with Guns or Drugs is all I can say...

Some military vehicles are also roaming the roads. Some have roof mounted 50 Cals. They were all very relaxed and non threatening. Most of the time at the checkpoints we just exchanged greetings (I speak Spanish), and they asked where I was going and where I was coming from, they complemented the Taco (most times , and they waved me on.

I do not have a front plate on the Taco, so once they realized I was touring, they did not bother any further. At say half of the checkpoints, I was just waved on before I even had time to lower my window.

One checkpoint had a group which included a higher-ranking officer. He did ask me to open-up the back once we had talked for a bit. - And once I was out of the truck, they proceeded to only ask a bunch of questions about my Taco - how much it cost in the USA, what equipment it came with, they admired the color -Lunar Rock is apparently NOT available in MX; and questions about some of the other added bits. After that Taco-talk, I was off.

I learned that Tacos pay a duty in Mexico (despite being made in-country, they are an export product), so they are MORE expensive there than in the USA. But they do also have access to the Hilux in a stick AND with the diesel in Mexico.

- The Police
I had a run-in with the coppers.

There is a wholly unnecessarily convoluted somehow ceremonial intersection and impromptu road-separation when you cross from Baja California to Baja California Sur. I stopped for fuel at a gas station located in the middle of that mess of an intersection, and while getting back on the road as I was checking maps, and any sign of a phone signal, adjusting my music, etc. - I somehow ended-up heading towards a gate to a military base.

- I turned around before reaching the gate - still distracted - and who knows what I did wrong - but (as it turns out) I ended-up going down the wrong way on a section of the interconnecting paths...

Despite the lack of signage - I was not quite sure - but I had a feeling that I was potentially doing something terribly wrong...

Just at that time (of course!) there was a police car headed the other way... (I was not certain what was going on... there were two lanes with a solid yellow line...) Traffic at that point is low and the speed limit is also low. I was going at some 15mph in this.

That's when I floored it!

No, I didn't...

(I still do not know where I got all sideways - I suspect I took a wrong path towards the road when I turned around at the military base - but I am not certain...)

To my surprise, the police passed by me without any fanfare and I continued on my way. 1 or 2 kms later (After navigating the mess of roads they were heading into, I suspect); I saw the police car coming in hot with the lights on. I pulled well-off the road straight away well before they were behind me and shut the car off.

They caught up to me - so they could tell from my plates that I was not a local.

They approached and after the usual questions (origin, destination, etc.) and before they asked if I knew why they stopped me, I told them that I suspected I had done something horribly wrong - but I had no clue what it was, or how it had happened - I mentioned I had stopped at the gas station... They chuckled as they confirmed that I was, in fact, going the wrong way in that section where we passed by each other.

I do not remember exactly how the conversation went - but we chatted for a bit. And we somehow ended-up talking about the stars, and I remember showing them my pretty-cool video of the Space-X launch I filmed during the night at Punta Final.

I remember them mentioning how it sucked for them to have to stop tourists as neither of them spoke, or understood any english at all. They eventually said it was fortunate that nothing bad happened during my misadventure, and I was off on my way with no more delay than the time taken to chat.

- Customs Immigration
When crossing into Mexico from the US (San Diego) - I was sent to Mexico's customs' secondary inspection. I did not get the 'random' RED light for the inspection queue, but I was waived off into inspection, by one of the customs people.

I opened the back on their request, and the guy who seemed a bit 'green' started making statements to himself about how I was exceeding the exempt import value with all my stuff... And that I would have to pay duty. - Here we go, I thought... I left him to do his thing and I did not react until he was done looking and spoke to me.

I then sternly disagreed with him telling him that I was not bringing-in 'stuff' into the country for any other purpose than the need for travel - and, as such, no duty was due. It was my personal stuff and not new. It was needed for purposes of my trip and I would be bringing it back with me at the end of the trip.

I was not budging from that and asked for a supervisor. He made a call on the radio and I sat on the tailgate expecting a long wasteful argument coming...

A young woman showed-up. She had the usual questions... I told her about my plans to travel, camp, meet my family who would be flying over etc.

She did not bat an eye any further and just said 'Buen Viaje!' (Have a good trip!) giving the guy a stern look as she walked away. - And I was off.

Next - Panic at Agua Verde - and a very short stay, unfortunately.

 

Some 60 km south of Loreto there is a road that heads south following the coast in the direction of Agua Verde. The first 10 kms or so are paved, but then you veer off on an unpaved track up into the ragged hills and into the wild.

The roads can be quite lonely in Baja. I could go for quite a while without seeing another vehicle - this is especially true on off road tracks.


I had heard the road to Agua Verde was challenging. It is slow-going on some segments - but in fairly good nick for the most part. There are some sections that are quite steep, some places where you drive close to the edge of some significant drops due to road obstructions, and some sections where a bit of vehicle height/clearance is needed to navigate a few rocky sections, but the road is certainly doable with even something a bit less capable than a Tacoma.

The coast is just off to the left of the picture. Agua Verde is somewhere over those hills...


The paved portion of the road ends and you continue on a track that is in fairly decent shape. You do see evidence of frequent washouts, and many fallen rocks from the steep hillsides as you get deeper into the mountains. It is not a wild track - you can see that some serious equipment has been working on sections of the road recently. I did not have to move any rocks out of my path, but I had to drive around some pretty large ones in some areas.

I am sure this place will become much more popular in the near future...




I realize now that I should have taken more pictures - especially at the more challenging 'wheeling' sections. The views from up high were amazing.





Here I am looking towards where I've come from (looking Northwards) as I get close to Agua Verde




I arrive at Puerto Agua Verde. This is bliss!

I've had a great drive and I am looking forward to setting-up camp and enjoying the rest of the afternoon. My plan is to explore a bit and then set-up camp at Puertito de Agua Verde.

'Puertito' is another two-sided beach located on a point just to the North of Puerto Agua Verde.

I plan to jump into the water - it will be the first time on this trip - (The waters are much warmer here than up North!), have a leisurely afternoon, I'll scope out the anchorage for future reference - maybe go for a hike, and meet a few of the folks currently camping at the beach, before making an awesome dinner.

I am also really looking forward to the night sky here. It should be spectacular.

I am actually a bit ahead of Schedule. - I consider staying a second night... Ahhh... This is so good!

- I look for a small rock to put in my shoe so that I have something to complain about...

I find a taco shop set-up at the beach... Since it is lunchtime, I start salivating thinking about some fish Tacos and a beer....
As I said up above; - I'd rather have these places completely wild - but, said that; I am also happy to contribute to people's efforts in these parts. This is not the easiest spot to set-up shop.

I grab a beachfront table and place my order. - 2 fish tacos and 1 Pacifico. There are 3 guys touring on Motorbikes and a group hailing from the sailboat you can see sitting at anchor. They've just arrived themselves. They pulled the dinghy-up as I drove into the beach.

Just when you think you are having the best time ever...


Here I am sitting at Puerto de Agua Verde, looking East. Puertito is around a small point to the left. (North)


Puertito de Agua Verde is below.
You can see the appeal of this cove as a nicely protected place to stay at anchor for a few days...


Disclaimer; I did pilfer the pic above from the web. I did not have time hike up there to take my own %$%#& picture. **

(EDIT: My how small the www is! It turns out that the photo credit goes to TW's @Stuck Sucks. I would have given credit directly, but I did not know at the time of pilferage that it was your pic!

That pic was originally posted here: My trip report to the Baja 1000)

** What ever could happen is this place to derrail such a great plan, you ask?? There is no phone, no TV, no WiFi... What could it be??

I'll tell you...

It was this guys fault:


My beer is delivered. and just as I am about to crack it open to enjoy its refreshing, golden deliciousness, I hear this weird snorting noise. I look around and see nothing... I am unconcerned. - The snorting comes again. I look down and there is this weirdo pooch staring at me.

As I focus my attention back to my beer - where it should be. I hear this barely audible: "Hey Mate - you've got too many passports in your bag..."

My beer is still capped... I look down at the pooch. What did he say??? I realize just then - in terror - that whoever said that, is absolutely correct...

You see; - As I am sure it is the case with all families; One person is the keeper of the important documents. In my family that person is me.

With a young family, I rarely travel without the fam - and when I do, this is typically only on work trips. And they tend to not travel out of the country while I'm away... I always have my passport with me. And it is at this moment when I have realized that I also have, safely and securely, all my family's passports packed with me...



^ This was me - in that order...

My... - how quickly things change...

I was having the best time ever... - up until this VERY instant in time when it all blew up...

I am sitting here. It is lunchtime on Thursday.

My Family is scheduled to fly down early morning on Saturday. Of course, they will not be let near any planes going on international flights without passports...

I must correct this mess somehow, or this trip will be forever ruined and I am 100% certain that I will hear about it until I am dead... and after I am dead, this story will be the only one that will be told about me for ages to come.

The worst thing is that the boys have been looking forward to a trip for quite a while. Having to cancel this trip at the last minute will be disastrous. I feel an urge to start thumping my head repeatedly against my table...

I have a bit of time... There is still hope. A dim glimmer, but it is still there.

There is no way to do a plan 'B'. At this point, I am some 6 day's drive from home. If I headed back now; would arrive home by the time their Spring Break is over...

I do not know if there is something in the air or what - but, in my experience, Baja tends to present certain travelers with a challenge to overcome while they are there...

A car may break something, you get lost, you realize that the unseasonal rains you are seeing at camp are the first signs of an incoming hurricane, you run out of fuel - and there is none available at the next fuel stop, you get stuck in 4' deep mud dozens of miles from the nearest track, you slide off the road from trying to imitate a Baja 1000 racer, and finally stop - undamaged, but maybe with your vehicle with two wheels just barely clinging to opposite edges of a 8' deep ravine, etc...

(NOTE: All examples are completely made-up to protect the innocent ).

I have been assigned my challenge... I have no choice but to accept this mission.

- I digest my realization, and somehow manage to avoid swearing loudly, banging my head on the table, or otherwise alarming the crew from the sailboat.

I look at them and realize that they have no idea of what is happening inside my head at this moment...

I crack open my (now) much needed beer, and focus on coming up with a plan to address my challenge.

I drag my thoughts (kicking and screaming, of course...) away from any plan that involves considering staying here for the night.
It is not doable - and, in any case, I will not enjoy it.

- I am utterly crushed.

I am nowhere near any sort of significant population - or services at this time...

I must:

- Make contact with the outside world and see what options I may have that may not be aware of at this moment.

- Contact my wife and give her the awesome news...

I then wonder if she has already realized this minor 'detail' as she gets the boy's stuff ready to go...


- I must figure out where I may have access to any sort of overnight courier service, contact someone heading back to a convenient location, etc.

I must go somewhere with a major airport Asap.

I conclude that my best chance for a timely solution is to get to La Paz - YESTERDAY.

- I am some 350 km away from La Paz right where I sit - and the first 25 km will be painfully slow as I make my way back to the highway... - I am looking at driving some 7 hours to get to La Paz. Of course, I will arrive well after business hours.

I pay for my lunch after finishing my excellent (but not quite properly enjoyed) fish tacos & Beer and head back to the Taco.

Everyone there thinks I am heading to Puertito de Agua Verde as I had mentioned. - But Noooo... I am leaving all together.

As they say - I am not a happy camper.

I was planning on staying TWO days here. As it turns out, I am on my way out less than 20 minutes after I drove in to this wonderful spot.




Goodbye Agua Verde - Looking back at the place where I should be: (You can see the Landmark rock just off the point in the distance. This rock is visible in the picture I pilfered, and the one taken from my table.)

 

For a sec I thought you were going down to La Paz, Bolivia in the high Andes....I was gunna recommended some bars and restaurants lol

Cool thread man!

 

I can only wish!

One of these days...

There is another TW owner who is down that way actually... I do not recall the username.

As I mentioned above; These un-imaginative little padres did not put much effort into in choosing place names... They just repeated the same names down all the way to the tip of So. America.

 

I was on a mission after this - so I did not take any pictures on the way to La Paz.

I knew my chances of success would be best with some unconventional solution due to timing and logistics via official channels (e.g. DHL, Fed-ex or similar). I had to keep the border in mind.

While heading towards the highway, I ran into a couple groups touring on motorbikes. - I asked about their travel plans, on the off chance I got lucky, but no one's travel plans were suited to address my issues. On I went...

This part of Baja is a bit more densely populated - especially South of Ciudad Insurgentes. The road terrain is often straight and flat with a few small but often steep mountain ranges to overcome. Towns get larger, but there are still long stretches with no population.

I was driving a bit faster than I would have normally, but in this populated stretch, there are more people on the road, and many people were going much faster. In the more rural areas life is slow. I was now interacting with 'busy urbanites' some of which took silly risk in trying to pass truck and other vehicles.

There were a few vehicles where the occupants were passing the time having a few beers... This is not so uncommon in more remote parts. Some drivers are clearly incapacitated and are often not able to remain on their side of the road as they pass. Accidents often involve alcohol, unfortunately.

The text in blue addresses the passport issue - you can skip this blue text if you'd like!

The clock was not on my side as my arrival time would be well after business hours, and after seeing some of these speedsters get stopped by the cops, I settled back into my usual pace.

I had chosen an RV park somewhat close to the airport as a good spot to camp on the night before I had to pick-up my family at the airport. I arrived in the dark at around 9pm. Fortunately, the girls in the office were still there and I got settled into a nice shady spot among some trees. I wanted some shade since I, contrary to my original plan, would be there all day the next day and the next night.

As I drove and reached cell coverage along the way, I did make some phone calls to people who might be able to assist in my plight. One mate who is a pilot and could maybe get a pilot friend of cabin crew to take the passports with them and possibly hand them over at the terminal.Maybe this was doable... There was Another who does business with boat equipment and often used the available courier services in La Paz, etc. - Not to get into too much detail here; in the end, I had a couple possible avenues. But all these were were risky, and one step going wrong with any of them meant complete failure.
Re-scheduling was not practical as it was spring break and most flights were booked - And changes would imply HUGE price increases for certain...

If I had only realized my error before today, I'd be in much better shape...

There was nothing I could do at that time so I went to bed with a plan was to to head to the courier service office first thing in the am and hope for the best... At least I had a reference to these folks, and it seemed to be the best option.

I went to sleep. - Except I didn't.
I felt that this was not going to work. At least not in time. Time was tight and even though the passports might make to San Diego in time, I doubted that they would be available for pick-up in time. I had checked flight times as someone suggested that I fly back with the passports and meet my family to then fly back...

There was a flight leaving La Paz for San Diego at 7:00am. I decided I would be there and see if I could find someone who could help. I was there bright & early at 3:30 am before anyone. - I did not want to miss any potential passengers.

I always told my boys that if they got in a pickle (lost, etc.) and need help, to seek help (if possible), from a lady with kids. I did the same in this case. She would understand, right? My first try failed. The lady seemed suspicious and I gave-up right away. It seems I was looking at an uphill struggle.

Next through the door was a lone guy. Might as well try... He was somewhat sleepwalking when I approached him, but he caught on and without batting an eye after hearing my story and planned solution, he just put out his hand and said: 'Give me the passports'. I got his number, and address a in San Diego. He was not too far from my sister, and she could swing by and pick-up the passports after a couple hours' flight and a quick trip home from the airport.

I handed over the passports and off he went to check in... I walked back out to the Taco. Not knowing whether I was on my way to solving my problem, or had just ensured failure... AND lost the passports.

This approach was not without risk. But it was the best course of action I had to ensure success. The guy seemed decent enough... It was about 4:30 or 5:00 when I left the airport. I was tired and without much to do at that point, I went back to camp and finally slept. I felt a bit optimistic.

My mate in the boat business was spending some time in La Paz coincidentally, so we met up after I had a good sleep. It had been many years since our last contact. We went to have an early lunch sitting by the boardwalk in town. - Noon came with a beer. We then toured around the local sights while catching-up. It was great use of this extra day - now that I was 'free'... But I was still in the zone of uncertainty.

Sitting by the beach at the boardwalk (El Malecon) in town.


Rounding the Bay at La Paz - here we are looking North at Isla Espiritu Santo. There are some great beaches to visit at this natural reserve.


After a while, my sister sent a text saying she had the passports in her hands. And all was good in the world...

I had success!
My family would be arriving early the next morning. I could breathe easier now!

My fam arrived without issue and we spent the day in La Paz after a good breakfast in town. We ate some great food all day - breakfast, lunch and Dinner. We called it early so the boys could enjoy the pool and rest for the next day's travel to the East Cape.

The next morning, we had breakfast, and we took off towards the East cape.
We took the Scenic route through 'El Triunfo' an old and picturesque (and well-preserved) mining town with some buildings and infrastructure dating from the 1870s. The investment in the mine (mostly from the British) was riding on the California gold rush wave which had started a couple decades prior.

In its heyday, El Triunfo had a population of some 10,000 people. Lots of British and folks from Continental europe were there - along with many chinese workers. There are cemeteries for the Europeans, and separately for the Chinese... I guess they could not risk interaction even while underground! - The town was a prosperous place enjoying cultural amenities from abroad. It was the first place in the region to enjoy electricity and telephones.

A 47 meter tall smokestack (built in 1890) remains on site as an obvious landmark quite visible as you approach the town. It is certainly out of place at that location.

The smoke stack. It has been restored at the top (after the loss of a section) and reinforced at the bottom.


The mine ceased operations in 1926. There are some 300 people living there today.

The old buildings now house some museums, nice cafes, and restaurants. We had some excellent 'street' ice cream made with various types of cactus fruit and other local exotics - which we tried. They also had a couple of more traditional ice cream flavours. All hand made. We were lucky to run into some some traditional spanish pastries. (Spanish - not the legacy French pastries more common in Mexico).

I purchased some to eat, and some more for later. They turned out to be excellent! They were all gone before we made it back to the taco!

This was a very nice stop to break-up the 2.5-hour drive to los barriles.

An interesting building that caught my eye...


This street seemed like it had been the main street. It runs parallel to the road.



We arrived in town at Los Barriles and hit the store for some basics and snacks and went to check in to our hotel. We enjoyed the beach and the pool and as the sun went down, we had a nice long dinner in town. It was a touristy joint... I was not impressed - but the better looking building appealed to my wife..




We had planned on going fishing while at Los Barriles - but it was a bit too windy and all boats stayed at anchor. This is an area that is very popular for fishing AND kite-boarding, we happened to have a bit of wind a bit earlier in the season.

We did do some fishing from a pier after some more pool time for the boys in the afternoon.



The next day we rented a 4 seater sxs for 4 hours after breakfast, we all went up the coast on some off road tracks and into a canyon to visit a waterfall. The boys had a great time driving.

The boys had fun navigating over sand trails, large rocks, and some riverbeds going up the canyon, and along the coast. Some of the views were spectacular. I was not being very diligent with the picture-taking...



Some pricy off road rigs found their way to a secluded beach.





Not many people were to be found away for the towns. But the whole area is MUCH more developed than when I was here last. Now there are lots of tourists and folks building vacation homes. Back then it was just a beach...

 

This concluded the 'roughin-it' portion of the family trip. We returned to La Paz and checked into the foofy hotel with several pools and a private beach. A bit of a step-up from my tent - at my wife's request... It was not too bad for a resorty place.

Especially the beach pool area and their food was nice, but if it were just me and the boys, I would have stayed at a place in town (A walkable spot, - closer to non-resort food!). I did like having a safe and shaded spot to park the taco (in the basement) so I could not be worried about the taco and all the stuff in the back.)
I have to say that enjoyed the wild camping best!



It was an old hotel in a great location. It was recently fully re-done / remodeled under new ownership. The hotel has a very nice Marina. Steve Jobs' yacht was parked just outside. He used to come to La Paz a couple times a year. It seems his wife continues to do so.

I am NOT a fan of Jobs, even less of a fan of apple products, or their practices - although it works well for them! But regardless of my bias, this is the ugliest boat I have ever seen...



I like proper boats. Those are the ones with masts and sails. We did go out exploring in the water... but it was on a motorboat.



We saw whale sharks - but unfortunately I have no pictures...

A nice spot to spend the night! (That is a proper boat!) I was taking notes for next time's sailing advanture!



The water is amazingly clear and inviting.





Lots of beaches to explore from the water. Very difficult to reach from land - You'd have to hike in as there are no roads there.

I was quite impressed with La Paz. It has grown A LOT (compared to the last time I visited some 25 years ago!), but they've done a very good job. It is clean, and well organized.

There are nice protected bike paths in town and no trash! The beaches are clean. There were still a few lingering boat wrecks from the last hurricane, but none of the typical plastic trash that often litters the coast.

All of us really enjoyed the great food in town. The boys loved the various types of tacos - lobster machaca, smoked marlin, creamed shrimp, in addition to the standard grilled and battered fish tacos.

One of the boys loves food and will try most anything once. He had his eye on an octopus dish... so he ordered some and polished it off. The boys took advantage of all the pools and the beach. They snorkeled along the shallow reef for hours.

We spent 4 great days in La Paz after coming back from the East Cape, then the next morning, I dropped off the fam at the airport.

- It was time to resume exploring - this time, on a different route heading Northwards...

 

You're welcome. My trip report to the Baja 1000 (which includes the above photo).

A great place to camp on the spit at Agua Verde -- in front of the truck is the bahia:

 

Thank you indeed! @Stuck Sucks - Great pic! I chose this photo because it captured the angle I wanted to show. I did not know (or notice) that it was yours when I pilfered it... (and I have read your thread in the past as I can see I already had a 'like' on that one!).

Credit updated in the relevant post above too!

 

Enjoyed the passport story. Did you consider running the passports to La Paz and throwing money at FedEx for next day delivery?

 

I did. I had time to think-up all sots of schemes...
(But I did not think of my eventual solution until I was laying there awake unable to sleep...)

The problem was time. I got to La Paz on Thursday night - well past business hours. I'd hand the passports over on Friday morning at the earliest. I struggled to believe that if I handed them over to any courier at that time, that they would make it through customs and be ready to be turned over in time for a Saturday (early) morning flight.

- I needed the passports on the US side of the border. Any interaction with Customs would be a BIG delay risk in every case.

All shippers, FedEx, DHL, Airline cargo, - I even considered shipping via the bus passenger lines package service*, would be subject to customs risk.

I considered shipping to Tijuana - but then the struggle was how to get the passports across to the USA where they were needed...

*I saw several of these buses heading North as I made my way to La Paz - but they stop only at the larger towns - and I was not close to any.

Some only stop for fuel. I was not about to try and persuade one of them to stop on the road on my own... despite my urge to do so!

 

Pointing Nortwards
The way back.

I had an early start that morning as I dropped off the fam at the airport early at around 5am. I stopped at a cafe on the way out of town just to make some final planning and decision-making. As usual; I had thought-up a few routes to make my way North.

1.- The first option had me heading straight-up from La Paz on the gulf coast towards San Evaristo. Much of this stretch would be on 'major' access roads (maintained, but unpaved).

From San Evaristo, I would then climb the sierra to get back on the main highway. There is quite a bit of remote coastal territory to cover on this route. There are some great beaches and some diving spots. This needed a bit more time than I had on this trip and I had already decided to leave this part for later exploration.
- I am hoping to visit some of these spots from the water (Cruising on a Sailboat) in the not so distant future as well.

2.- Another option was to Backtrack on the main Highway on the way North. (this area is mostly a large flat desert, but there are many (small) population centers). Wild camping is not the best option due to higher densities.

After traveling North for a few hours on the highway; I would have access to off road tracks providing many more options.
I was mostly interested in 3 of them:

2A - Take a track up a river valley towards the Comondus (A mission site and also a spot I had not visited in a very long time), and then make my way to Carambuche and La Purisima (traveling in a North-Westerly direction over the Sierra). I would then have the option to climb the Sierra and reach San Javier again (traveling in a South-Easterly direction for that portion).

This was very interesting.... But I had discarded the idea of heading back to San Javier via this route. I learned that the track was quite rough with some segments that essentially required rock crawling.

One reference I had from about a week prior to this day mentioned that a 20 km stretch had taken some 8hrs to traverse. And this was a vehicle with quite a bit more clearance than my Taco. Aside from being in a single vehicle and traveling solo, this would put me on the gulf coast highway where I'd come on the way South, so this further reduced the appeal.

2B - Go past the turn off for the Comondus and Head to La Purisima heading East (off road) through Carambuche and make my way towards the North-East on an (off-road) track which would give access to the main highway at a point just south of Bahia Concepcion (again on the Gulf Coast).

2C - Take a track heading towards the North-West on the Pacific Coast of the Peninsula through San Juanico. This would give me access to some different and more remote territory on the pacific coast further North - Primarily the Salt flats / marshes at Laguna de San Ignacio.

This area had been the target of a previous trip some 20+ years before - but that attempt had proven unsuccessful as it was during summer - a terribly hot and humid summer.

It had also been quite wet which made the conditions very difficult due to deep & sticky mud that had us almost getting very badly stuck repeatedly. This area is quite remote and while there were two of us, we only had a single vehicle. Having beaches to enjoy elsewhere, we adjusted the plan and left this are for a later time.

So I opted for option '2C' BUT decided to also incorporate a bit of the route for '2B' as I would climb-up to the top of the sierra Beyond Carambuche.

My intention was to spend the night in San Juanico. This meant a bit of backtracking, but only some 30 miles, which my early start conveniently allowed.

Looking East a few hours North of La Paz during a logistical stop:


I stopped at Ciudad Insurgentes where I topped off ice, snacks, fuel (including re-filling my 5 gal spare tank), and water. This would be the the last town with services that I would see for a while. It is some 140km (~75mi) before la Purisima.

I was not expecting to see any more fuel available for the next two days. I planned to keep my eye out for private fuel sales at La Purisima for a final top off.

Heading North-East on the way to La Purisima:


Arriving at La Purisima. The site of a mission from the year 1720: (only bits of a building ruin and foundations remain here now).


Cerro El Pilon (El Pilon Mountain) a distinct landmark:


On the road to Carambuche:



From Carambuche, the road climbs further into the mountains. The track was in good shape, and I was tempted.

I had decided to not go across the mountains to the West and stay on the Pacific coast.

The time came to turn around and make my way to San Juanico on the Pacific coast, but I did climb a bit, and also explored some of the tracks cruising along the river bed.

So much to explore, and so little time!

There was lots of water and lots of pretty river crossings with fish, ducks and other wildlife.







I was curious to confirm the road conditions for the next day's route. I did manage a conversation with some locals that provided good insight.

Traveling south - Making my way back to La Purisima.
An aqueduct running along the road:



It gets a bit tall in some sections.


There is no fuel station at La Purisima; in such cases, local Folks fill the need by stockpiling fuel.

I followed some signs advertising fuel, but when I showed; no one seemed to be home but then a couple kids ran-up. The kids were manning the fuel sales... A girl- maybe 13 yo. and a boy maybe 7 yo. 'helping' her out.

I offered to help them with the fueling, but they had it handled... They delivered the fuel (did not spill a drop!). I purchased 20 liters and I was on my way.


With that 'detour' now taken care of, I am now back on track. Heading North-West towards the coast and San Juanico.


Some interesting geology:

 

Reaching the beach:


I cut across some Sand dunes towards the beach. Some of this sand was quite soft and I felt the taco sink into the sand. Maybe this had not been such a great idea... As expected, the Taco managed well once it got a bit more speed. It was fun and made my way to the water. I stopped for a bit once on the hard packed sand to enjoy the long empty beach.



After a few, made my way north to the town along the beach not bothering to get back on the highway.

There were not many people around on this part of the beach, but San juanico is a popular spot.


The Bay at San juanico (Scorpion Bay):


Some local Toyotas working at the beach:


I toured around scoping out camp spots. None of the 'campgrounds' seemed appealing. There seemed to be a few people around at the main beach. A party seemed to be gearing-up for later that night. As a result, I planned to wild-camp somewhere towards the bluff at the North-end of town hoping for a quieter sleep.

I ran into a cool little joint on the way-up to the bluff which turned out to be the perfect spot for a bite. I spent a bit more time here than I expected... I enjoyed it.

The view from one of their six or so tables was not too shabby:
The Fish Tacos were excellent and they hit the spot... It was late enough at this point that dinner at camp would no longer be necessary.

I do look forward to meal times at camp, but I could not say no to those tacos!



I made my way up to the bluff to find a spot. I saw a few 'No camping' signs. Not good.

I then saw a Tundra camped a bit further up. I headed over and had a chat. It was a young (college aged) couple. They said they had been there 2 days without issue. They were not opposed to have me camp by them. - I went off some 80m and set-up camp.



After a mostly gray day, the show (sunset) started not long after this. The overcast skies had made for a great driving day. I had reduced glare and it also kept things cool. It is warm-er at these latitudes although it had only been in the high 70s/low 80s, I enjoyed the day's cooler weather. The sun did make a showing for sunset.

Looking towards San Juanico:
A big party did start after dark. I could not really hear much at that distance. But I could see the flashing lights once things got going. San juanico is a popular spot for folks pre-running or looking to ride toys at the beach.



A few minutes later:


Looking East:


I had a great sleep after reading for a bit. I was completely out and woke only when we had quite a bit of rain come around 2-4 am. It was heavy at times, but I had no issues with moisture or leakage.

The Taco did get a much needed hosing off without any additional charge - Excellent service!

The rain was gone by the time I had to pick-up camp. My tent and mat were mostly dried off by the time I picked-up camp, but I was not too worried since I was going to use all this for the next few nights.

 

I had a great night. I woke to another overcast day. Since there was no bright sun "alarm clock" available, it was seven am before I was up and going. A late morning, I believe due to my camp rhythm being spoiled by the hotel stay.
The sandy soil soaked-up the rain, so there was no mud and I was able to shake my mat clean in no time.

Peeking out of my tent as I wake.


I set off along the sandy terrain at the top of the bluff. From San Juanico, I planned to head North along the coast on a track that runs through a desolate area that is largely a salt flat or salt marsh. There are also some sections of the crossing that go through vast sand dunes. There is a ranch and a fishing village along the way, but there are no real resources along the way. I expect to reach my next camping spot only after a full day's drive. - Barring any unexpected events...



As I mentioned previously; this area had been the target of a previous trip some 20+ years ago - but that attempt had proven unsuccessful since the weather had been quite wet which made the conditions very difficult due to sticky mud that had us becoming very badly stuck several times. This area is quite remote and while there were two of us on that trip, we only had a single vehicle. Getting stuck can be disastrous here as even walking in that salty marsh mud is challenging. Especially in those extreme temperatures. And there is nothing to walk to... Your best bet is to stay with your vehicle and wait for assistance. Provided you are on the most transited track.

This can become a very inhospitable place very quickly especially in the summer when temperatures can stay above 100F for long periods. Having beaches to enjoy elsewhere, we adjusted the plan back then and left this area to explore at a later time.

This time I visited in the spring and it had been a bit cool for this part of the world. (mid to high 70s (F)). I was lucky with temperature - but the moisture also presents a problem with mud and flooding. The previous night's rain did not inspire confidence. This are is VERY flat and as a result this can become a huge muddy bog that spans hundreds of square miles.

I wanted to get some local reference on conditions here at San Juanico for the above reasons. San Juanico is the last village and the Southern entrance to the salt marshes. I cruised around a bit and ended up at the police station. A handful of officers were sweeping the front lot of the station so they were handy and I imagined they would have good insight.

The first guy I approached was not at all familiar with my intended route North, but he called over another officer who had done the crossing not too long ago. All the officers kept repeating the advice I had heard many times before: "Stay on the travelled tracks and don't deviate".

Veering off only a few feet off the compacted tracks in the salt marshes can get you impossibly stuck in the sticky mud. - "Even 4x4 is useless in that mud" the officers highlighted. I remembered well from prior travels. We chatted for a bit and I was off a bit more confident on the passage, but also a bit weary about the conditions ahead. The recent moisture was a reason for concern.

The (somewhat) paved streets in town end less than 1 km from the police station. A sign points the direction to Cadeje (The Ranch I would travel through) is close by at some 10 miles distance.

Heading into 'nowhere' to drive right through the middle of it.


To head north, you need to avoid some wet areas ('river mouths') close to the shore where the surrounding hills drain into the Pacific. The road climbs into the hills as you head out from San Juanico to avoid these.



A Creek Crossing - Lots of water present... Hmmm...



Surprise! A cobbled stoned segment going across a riverbed. This portion was likely washed out often - prompting the work.


This initial segment (say some 10 miles) consisted of climbing up and down between the creek beds. Some of these were steep and rocky. I used 4-low on several of these sections simply to better control my speed - while going up and coming down.

On one of these steep segments (A steep, rocky downhill), my oil pressure light came on. I was crawling down the slope without drama, and without any obvious reason for such a failure. There were a few other spots less desirable for this to happen on this trip - but not many.


I shut off the engine right away and coasted down the rocky slope under the power of gravity. At the bottom, the dirt track became smoother. I let off the bakes and I eventually coasted to a stop in fairly flat terrain.

Having seen this oil light before on slopes (as well as reading about similar issues on TW); I powered down with the intention of letting the truck sit for a bit. I was sure the truck would have no issues. - However, there was a slight possibility, of course, that the problem was not a slope issue. And that the taco would no longer cooperate...


I had a look underneath to ensure there were no streams of Oil flowing anywhere (there was no external reason for this - but you never know what may break inside an engine.) I had heard no suspect noises or felt any odd vibrations or issues prior to the light coming on, and I was ALMOST certain it was simply a slope issue...

I checked the oil level - all looked good. No oil was missing.

I took advantage of the stop to pour the fuel from my spare tank into my main tank. - As a general rule. I much prefer to carry all my fuel in the vehicle's fuel tank rather than anywhere else, so as soon as I am able to relive the extra fuel tanks of their contents, I do so...

This time, however, I did not pour it all in - only because I wished to have some fuel available in case I found some travelers who were in need of fuel. This is not such an uncommon occurrence in areas such as these where fuel is this scarce.

While I was at this - I also had a snack, washed my hands and then I was ready to go. As expected / hoped. The truck started without issues and without any warning lights... We were off again.

Damned taco engine design quirks! (At least we know...)

I resumed my leisurely drive and I few kms later I came-up to a couple of vehicles in apparent trouble (in the middle of the road and with hoods up.).

They were visible from a good distance as we were now in flatter terrain. I did not spot anything suspicious and I stopped to chat. (Still at a at a distance and not getting out of the Taco.). I saw there was quite a bit of the engine bits taken apart and it was evident they were working on the engine. The group from what seemed to be the assisting vehicle appeared to be a family. I offered to help.

It seemed that their thermostat had stuck closed and their engine was overheating as a result. One guy was already after it, but they did not have suitable tools. I could help with that...

With some proper tools, the thermostat was out in a few minutes and things were ready for assembly. They were pretty happy. Once they were on track to put things back together with the tools they had; I left them to tidy-up and went on my way.



Finally heading towards the water (West)


Up and down. As usual - I did not take pictures of the most interesting bits of 'wheeling' road sections - rough tracks, washouts, detours... I was busy enjoying the driving


Getting closer to the Dunes

 

Geology, SLO, and toyotas. Sounds like wed get along just fine. Spent many a days down in san felipe for the baja races. That and my step dad was friends with nearly everyone in town it seemed.

Great picutres and looks like an unforgettable time!

 

Dont mean to spam but have your read any of Dan Grec’s books? Seems like its up your alley!

 

No Worries!
I was not familiar - but I did look him up. I'll have to check out some of his stuff!

 

This looked like an adventure of a lifetime!

 

The only population on this track is found in a village called 'El Datil'. It is a fishing village on the coast. As you might expect in this part of the world (from my prior descriptions; the coast is also shallow water there and there are sand bars parallel to the coast. Only 'pangas operate from there as I understand. El datil is some 35 miles North from San Juanico.

This small village essentially becomes an island when the salt marshes flood leaving it inaccessible and isolated until the waters recede and the mud dries sufficiently to allow vehicle access once again. This flooding cycle makes the road tracks confusing as the dry spots shift as people start making their way again. One must take care as an old track might be superseded, but visually it may seem like a viable track. They become a sort of cruel maze as you go along making your way across the salt flats.

I was now making my way closer to the coast going across more dry river beds and sandier terrain.




I was going along when as I made a tight turn, I came upon a stopped vehicle coming the other way. It was a surprise - but not too dramatic. Fortunately, there was an alternate path in that section and I quickly cut across a soft sand berm to veer off onto this other path rather than slamming on my brakes. As I came beside the vehicle, I noticed that they had a flat tire. I stopped and asked if they were ok.




They said they were struggling to get the punctured tire off (well over-torqued). But that they had managed to get the spare out. They asked if I had a bike pump with me as their spare was low on air. I pulled in in front of them to avoid blocking traffic completely (no one came by) and pulled out my battery compressor. I figured this would be sufficient to top the tire off. As it turned out, the spare had some 6psi to start with.




Air Compressors

I carry two compressors. A handy 18v 0.5CFM battery operated (Ryobi P747) compressor. This weight less than 2 lbs. I also carry a stouter model 2781 - 5.65 CFM 12v Smittybuilt compressor that clamps to the battery for use. This larger one fits perfectly in the rear seat storage compartment, but it weighs 21lbs.

The battery operated one fills in for light duty from inflating balls, to pressurizing my water tank to light tire inflation. It is very handy for quick access and I can charge the battery (which is shared with a spotlight) while driving. The larger compressor I use when needing larger volumes of air - when airing up fully to get on pavement, for example.

Having these two makes for good versatility AND importantly, this pair covers my need to be a bit redundant with compressor availability.

It took some 10-12 minutes for the little compressor to fill the tire to 40psi (As requested by the driver). Their tire allegedly punctured on a rock lying in the middle of the sandy track - which had become hard-packed in that section.

I do not know why they wanted such high psi - maybe in case the spare turned out to be leaking air? I do not know; but the high psi is typical, this may have been the reason for their current puncture.

I believe these folks were visiting family in the area and not local residents. I believe that the local folks would be a bit more attentive to the condition of their spare...

I was aired down to some 26-28psi for most of this crossing. I would go a bit lower in the dunes and I'd tweak psi as the terrain changed.


Strictly single-track was common for long stretches.


The terrain changed often and dramatically as I continued on.

Crossing the first bit of the salt flats area.



Still a bit far from the coast - but it was all beach sand here.



Travel in any other direction is impossible. The vegetation catches wind-blown sand and creates these sand moguls. The moguls and surroundings are very soft sand that yields significantly under pressure. Even walking is difficult. Any vehicle would be high centered in no time.

This landscape was a bit surreal...


Still all sand - but now a bit more solidly packed and all flat.


Suddenly I'm walking on the moon...


The tracks are not so obvious in some places.


Sometimes a choice between tracks is necessary. Several may be viable options. Some may not. Some are softer than others depending on how long the area may have been dry...

"Don't deviate from the tracks" I recall...

Getting out to take pictures confirms the sketchy feel of this mud underfoot. A solid top crust in the softer areas reveals the gooey filling underneath...

Crunchy mud does not inspire much confidence... There is not much I'll be able to do if I get stuck. - Other than set-up camp!


The meandering track makes it difficult to confirm you are on the right path towards a destination. It is difficult to distinguish moist ground from dry salt crystals on the surface. It makes you pay attention...



The darker tire tracks have been in use for long periods and are usually reliable - they are rock solid. Some of these well traveled sections are extremely smooth. Smoother than most propr roads.

High speeds are quite possible. I went up to 70 mph in some segments. Much higher speeds can be achieved, I am sure. I did not do this for long as I was not familiar with the area and I did not want to suddenly venture into a soft area, or be surprised with a puddle, or something like that...


I have the location for El Datil on the GPS. I check often to make sure I am making progress in the right direction - at least generally...


Getting closer to El Datil - I have to get over the coastal dunes.

 

Driving on the dunes is fun. There is a section where the frequency and elevation of some 7-8 whoops suits my suspension perfectly. Zero gravity at the top with a downhill landing and on to the next one... I keep myself from going back to ride this again only due to the difficulty in turning around!



Past the dunes.




El Datil sits atop those 'Mountains' there on the horizon to the left. Barely a few feet higher than the surrounding land, but enough to keep it dry...




El Datil (Pop.: 300; Elevation: 6ft above sea level) is a pretty sleepy fishing village. I do not see many people. I do not know what time is their high season for activities. The shore is lined with 'pangas' and work areas surrounded by mountains of shells.


The town is made up of rough built homes, and a few warehouse type buildings. Lots of containers are used for various purposes.



I do not linger long. I make my way through town at a leisurely pace having a look around town, and resume my way North.

Here I am hopefully headed in the right direction...

The track is well used and heading North - I have to assume this is the one I need. (Fortunately, there are not many other options that look as transited.)

There is no signage anywhere...



Just a LOT of NOTHING every way you look.

As I walk even a few feet off the track, I feel the crusty dirt sink under my weight.



I am enjoying the nothingness. There is no breeze so it is completely silent... I hesitate turning my engine off in this place...


It is in the high 70's and overcast. Last time I was near here, it was closer to 110F and muddier (and humid of course). Not quite inviting... Horrid actually!


We must be getting there... This dirt feels good under my tires!



But then... More sand.
Sand inspires familiar confidence under my tires. It provides consistent traction and bearing pressure. (within a reasonable range at least - some sections were surprisingly soft.). Sand's softness makes for a nice comfy drive as well... Not great for MPGs however. Fuel is tracking well.



I really do not like to look of this... rainclouds.


That is the way I am headed... Still some 60 miles to go to my intended camp spot. And things are feeling a bit more moist. The ground has seen some light, but very recent precipitation. I can feel the increase in moisture in the air...


This is where I've come from...


Still, quite a way to go... I am starting to get a few raindrops on my windshield. I have an urge to get out of this terrain!



I recall getting a bit nervous at this point. I remember this well.

- Most people familiar with this area who I spoke with afterwards about this exact point in time said something along the lines of: "admit it, you got a bit scared then!". I don't mind admitting it... I did not want to be in this place in case rain made it significantly wet!

It would be difficult to tell where to drive! - With a heavy penalty for taking the wrong track. It would definitely slow me down dramatically in an effort to avoid getting bogged!

This is Baja - It is supposed to be bone dry!

Guess where I need to go... - #%&$*@!!