Sandman614's #expoenough Build

It had the connection on back, the hose running to the front, but not the barb for the connection block. Also the lincoln leads gas orings didn't line up correctly with the block. I was just tired of the rigged up Ness. If I could have found a connection block from a Lincoln I would have just got that.

 

Also that unit I didn't think can Handel more than 1/8” gas shield usually requires more amps over flux core

 

The dial on the front goes up to 3/16" and the side panel reads up to 3/16" gas and flux. Kind of impressive based on the serial number and some googling it looks like this one was manufactured in 1992.

 

Don’t believe everything you read about welders on TW For some reason this board thinks you need a 220 machine to weld anything more than sheet metal. In reality 110 machines work great for the work our trucks needs

 

What not everything I read on the internet is true? Granted the "sliders" that I will plan to make for my Rover may be pushng the bounds of this little machine, but at the same time as long as the metal sticks together well enough it should do fine for door dings and shopping carts.

 

I think you meant to say URE...

 

I wasn't sent saying that. Although 220 is nice to do single pass on 1/2”


I was implying that flux core wire, while not as nice looking, dosent push the machine as hard.

@Sandman614 just remember your duty cycle. 30% is at 90A while the machine goes to 120A it’ll be ~10% or less duty cycle

 

A couple inches at a time. If the weather goes back to what it has been after an inch or 2 I will need to pour out my shoes and go inside to change my clothes anyways.

 

Weld til it quits, then back off a bit....

 

I made a leg protector. Oh and I cut 1.5 inches out of my bumper. I may or may not have burnt through this 3/16" plate once or twice(That's because it's actually 1/8" if I would have taken a second to measure). Well see how the new tires clear.

 

Having a gopro sure beats finding a buddy that is willing to ride underneath, less liability too! Trying to figure out this "axle wrap thump". Looks like the slip joint isn't happy.

https://youtu.be/RbfDPknLy_Q

 

Refreshing my ArrrrRGB

 

Arduino + RGB? Whats the use?

 

Just a cheap Bluetooth controller. For some Overland raves

Spoiler: Seizure Warning

 

Overland credit ++
https://youtu.be/1E0T82SO7TI

 

Now back to some real work/research. I pulled the rear section of the shaft out and it looks like the Blue coating is worn pretty bad, and the Pinion seal on my rear diff is leaking.. I threw in the rear section that broke a while back at URE and I had Olivers Drive Shaft retube and the clunking is gone(The blue coating on this one is cracked down the length of the splines on a couple splines).




IDK if it would be worth it to have the Slip Joint replaced so I started researching..
Starting on Driveshaftparts,com I found some diagrams of how to measure the Slip Joint splined Stub and Yoke. Gathered up all the measurements and started looking, they didn't have anything that matched. I jumped over to Drivetrainamerica,com and they don't make it easy to search through all of their listing so I got on their Live chat, they asked for a part number to see which shaft I needed parts for so I gave them the casting number on the Slip Yoke C2-3-3079. While I waited on them I googled that same number and came across fortwayneclutch,com which gave me Spicer 2-3-15651X. More looking around I found https://www.powertrainindustries.com and it looks like the matching Spline stub is Spicer 2-40-01918.



https://www.powertrainindustries.com/story/2-40-01918?catalog_table=dsp_splined_stubs


https://www.powertrainindustries.com/story/2-3-15651X?catalog_table=dsp_slip_yokes

 

Finally installing these

$146 Whiteline w53312 Front Control Arm Bushing, Black

Whiteline w53312 LCA bushings ive had since Jul '17.. Church of Harbor Freight, praying things go well I really need some correct size steel tubes to do this again...