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Scheduled Maintenance (2nd gen) - 30,000 - 60,000 - 90,000 miles

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by harshest, Mar 19, 2009.

  1. Jun 23, 2010 at 9:32 AM
    #21
    harshest

    harshest [OP] I am the Sofa King

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    Fog Light On, Hidden Garage Door Opener, Scanguage II, Weathertech Liners, Cig lighter always on, Door buzzer removed from dash- Upcoming: 5100s for front and rear, set fronts to 2.5" and Toytec AALs.
    I just did mine again and yes they were pre-gapped.
     
  2. Jun 23, 2010 at 9:41 AM
    #22
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

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    Thanks!! I gotta do this sometime before the cold weather gets here!
     
  3. Jun 23, 2010 at 10:04 AM
    #23
    SManZ

    SManZ el tráfico más lento se queda derecha

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    Thanks for posting this!

    For the retorquing of the propeller shaft bolts, there are two torque figures for the one bolt in the center of the 4WD Access Cab/Double Cab pdf diagram. Am I supposed to tighten to the first torque, loosen, and then tighten to the second? I'll need to look for this bolt...didn't notice it before. I have seen the others at the ends of the prop shafts.
     
  4. Jun 30, 2010 at 2:45 PM
    #24
    Cape Codder

    Cape Codder Native Son

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    Did You Ever Get Around to Posting That Spreadsheet?
    I Don't See It
    I'd Download It. If It's Already Set Up
     
  5. Sep 8, 2010 at 11:10 PM
    #25
    leo08pirate

    leo08pirate Katzo production

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    TRD exaust - Tinted Windows - TRD Intake - Alpine type S speakers
    i could do all of this my self but i work at toyota
     
  6. Nov 20, 2010 at 3:13 PM
    #26
    Colton

    Colton Reagan/Bush '84

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    As for the engine air filter, is there a clip I need to be worried about on the back part of the air box? I plan on doing this tomorrow and it's raining outside so I couldn't get a look at it. How would I go about changing out the filter?
     
  7. Jan 20, 2011 at 6:11 PM
    #27
    jed1894

    jed1894 Active Member

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    All these instructions good for 2011 model?
     
  8. Feb 9, 2011 at 4:49 PM
    #28
    Crom

    Crom Time is precious; use it wisely

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    Cross reference your owners manual with the instructions posted here and you can tell us. I bet they're good to go for all years of Tacoma including 2011.
     
  9. Mar 20, 2011 at 11:14 AM
    #29
    ink junky

    ink junky I phucking hate people >:(

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  10. Apr 2, 2011 at 10:18 AM
    #30
    islander

    islander Member

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    I've got a stock '07 with 2.7L/4WD/5 speed. Looking at the service intervals none of them say to replace any gear box oil unless you're towing, only to inspect it. Can this be right? And the spark plug changes seem to be only for the V6 engines until the 120K service when it says "all models", is that true too?
     
  11. Aug 14, 2011 at 6:42 AM
    #31
    JLink

    JLink Well-Known Member

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    Lifted, Locked, Armored. Ready To Wheel.
    subbed
     
  12. Aug 24, 2011 at 7:33 PM
    #32
    TnRedNeck721

    TnRedNeck721 GO VOLS!

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    No mud flaps, plasti dipped emblems, and rear bumper, Weather tech digital fit, Bed mat from tractor supply. Pioneer 4400BH head unit. B.A.M.F bed rail tie downs. AVS vent visors.
    i have 28’6** on my ’07 TRD OR 4x4 v-6 mom say all that 30k man is BS. is it? or dose it really need to be done? i tried telling her it did need to be done. but she just says it’s a gimmick and it’s BS.

    if it dose need to be done at 30k. should i get the stuff and do it my self? how much and hard would it be to do my self myself?
     
  13. Aug 30, 2011 at 5:30 AM
    #33
    carattini

    carattini Well-Known Member

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    you can do that yourself...
     
  14. Aug 30, 2011 at 5:30 AM
    #34
    carattini

    carattini Well-Known Member

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    What is this?
    Re-torque propeller shaft bolt
     
  15. Sep 25, 2011 at 2:34 AM
    #35
    coltsporter

    coltsporter Member

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    Thank you. You guys are saving me a TON of money.
     
  16. Oct 6, 2011 at 8:16 PM
    #36
    knayrb

    knayrb Well-Known Member

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    So I'm not a master mechanic by any means but I am quite handy and mechanical in nature. I'll pretty much attempt anything and 95% of the time succeed if I have the right tools and instructions. I also have a lazy streak in me and decided to take my truck in for the 30,000 dealer service. I tow, haul, and off-road a bit so I do feel that I could justify some early maintenance.

    Of course the dealer's economy, enhanced, and premium packages have lots of extras included that the owner's manual doesn't. I didn't have everything done but it still cost me a cool $688.92 out the door. I'm very upset at myself because it was 117.35 in parts, 497.40 in labor, 30.00 shop fee crap, and 44.17 in taxes. In addition, when I got home there was a plastic part sitting in the windshield wiper well. They forgot to snap it back on one of the hose bends.

    I could have saved myself over $500 doing stuff that isn't very hard, and using this site, even have instructions with pictures. I feel I would be more careful and precise also. [​IMG]

    Here's what I had done:

    - Front, rear, and transfer case oil changed (not hard)
    - Spark plugs replaced (still not hard but time consuming)
    - Drain and fill transmission (per their recommendations even though it's WS oil, not hard)
    - 4-wheel alignment (I don't have the equipment so I don't feel bad)
    - Fuel injector flush (I think this is stupid. I use Chevon and add some injector cleaner every 6 months. IMO same stuff.)
    - Adjusted parking brake (not hard)
    - Used shop supplies (I would use less than a half roll of paper towels)

    Live and learn I guess.
     
  17. Oct 6, 2011 at 9:51 PM
    #37
    David K

    David K Well-Known Member

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    Differential Breather Mod Light Bar: 2 Hella 4000 HID, 1 Kragen HID, 1 Cibie Halogen.
    THIS is only for 2005-2008 Sport TRDs as they have the mechanical limited slip differential in back...

    2009 + are all electronic/ brake created limited slip (open differential).
     
  18. Oct 15, 2011 at 4:36 AM
    #38
    Texoma

    Texoma Well-Known Member

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    I would assume that the first torque spec is to be sure that tha shaft is pulled all the way onto the splines, then you loosen the bolt then retorqe it to the recomended torque spec. This is a common procedure on alot of applications. This is probably the most time consuming of all the maintinence issues due to the fact you have to disassemble the u joint to get to the nut. May be a way to avoid having to do this but once, by using some thread locker on it. Probably the strongest would be best since you probably won't find yourself taking apart your driveshaft all that often. Good info, thanks to the OP.
     
  19. Nov 24, 2011 at 7:34 AM
    #39
    HB Taco

    HB Taco Well-Known Member

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    Exactly why this thread exists! Well you got trans flush, alignment, and injectors cleaned, but those would be about $200-250.
     
  20. Nov 24, 2011 at 8:17 PM
    #40
    Texoma

    Texoma Well-Known Member

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    Poweraid TB spacer, a bunch a cool stickers, a bada ass MetalMiller Tx Longhorns grill emblem painted Hemi Orange, JBA 2035s headers and dey are perty, Diff breather mod, Red LED interior lights, Fancy head unit that plays ipod n movies, Also DIY install factory stuff like, factory cruise control, factory intermittent wipers, OME nitro struts with 886x springs and toy tec top plate, LR UCA's for better alignmnet and dey beefier too, Old Man Emu Dakar leaf springs in da rear with the gear, U bolt flipper, 5 factory 16" steels wit Pep Boys special Dakota Definity MT's in 285/75/16, some bad ass weather tech floor liners so I don't muck up my interior, an ATO shackle flipper for mo travel in da rear wit the gear, also super shiny Fox 2.0 shocks back there too, all sorts of steal armor for bouncing off of the rocks like demello sliders, AP front skid, trans skid, n transfer skid, demello gas tank skid, and a tough as nails ARB bumper with warn 8k winch, I'm sure there's more but it's alre
    Your mom is right, it's the devil. Just joking, with my refeerence from the water boy. All the stuff for maintinence on these Tacoma's is preventative maintinence. Just because you don't do it right at 30k mi doesn't mean your truck is going to fall apart. I haven't re torqued the bolt on the propeller shaft yet, and I doubt toyota did it for the first 25k mi either. I do plan on getting to it soon, but gunna put some blue loctite on the threads and never do it again. As far as price goes for the parts, it all depends on the products you buy. You'll need 6 qts of gear oil for the diffs and t-case, and they run anywhere btwn $3 a qt to $20 a qt, then if ya need slip fluid for the rear it's another $5. Spark plugs are $4 a piece or more, I think stock, which are great are bout $3-4 and if ya get long life iridium, it'll run ya $8 a piece. If you do a drain n fill on your auto trans, the WS fluid is almost $10 a qt and manuals just take gear oil. Check other threads for how much ya need, but with the auto trans I would buy more cuz ya never know how much the trans is gonna let out, manual trans is pretty strait forward though. Then greazin the u joints, just get a lil greaz gun that comes with no.2 lithium and should be bout $10-20. Then engine oil n filter. Intake air filter $20, cabin air filter $20. Remember this is preventative maintinence, it prevents your vehicle from developing major problems n breakdowns in the future. Keep up with all the stuff and your truck will outlive you.
     
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