Scott B.'s 2015 AC Build - Expo Style

CV Axle Rebuild

After 100,000 miles, a hole in one of the boots, CV axle grease all over the front suspension, it was time to rebuild the CV axles. I considered just replacing them, but OEM ones are quite expensive, and aftermarket ones are of varying quality and I didn't want to take a chance. Besides, they are really easy to rebuild, and Toyota sells an all-in-one kit for less than $40.

One kit is used for each axle shaft.



Pull the axle out of the truck, and clean it. Yes, get all that sticky, yucky gray/black grease and gunk off, pull the old boots off, and clean some more.

Once cleaned, this is what you end up with.



Re-assembly is just as easy. Squeeze the bags of grease into the boots, squeeze the new clamps, and put the axles back in the truck.

Keep an eye on the boots for a few miles, just in case one of them "burps" grease.

 

Thanks for the build thread.

The ctek is a good solution. We use battery to battery chargers a lot in the van conversion world. Another alternative to dealing with engine starting is to just carry some short jumper cables and jump from the aux battery.

Which size engelrefrigerator do you have that will run so long from the single aux battery?

 

Scott, did you take the shell off to install the braces?

 

I do carry a jump pack and jumper cables - not sure if my cables would reach though.

I have an Engel MT45 fridge. I drive the truck everyday while out (expeditioning, overlanding or car camping - whatever you want to call it) so I haven't run into a dead battery issue.

I am in the process of added dual voltmeters, so I will be able to closely monitor the batteries.

I am curious to see how much a battery runs down with the fridge.

 

No. No need to.

I did pull the bedsides together (slightly) to ensure they were 90* from the floor.

 

The refrigerator power use depends a lot on the outdoor temperature, as you would expect. When it is 110 F outside, it takes a lot more power than the 70 F used for the ratings.

In the van world, many people never turn off the fridge even when stationary for long periods, so it can be challenging without solar panels.

It is tricky to get 300 watts of panels on a Tacoma. Maybe put some on the hood.

 

Following this. Curious where I want the information. House battery outside in the bed somewhere and the starting battery on the dash? Both together. Do I really need to know starting battery condition? It's either going to work or get jumped, a fairly binary condition. But the house battery could be managed.

 

If you really want to know a lot about your house battery condition, the RV / van conversions sometimes use bogart state of charge meters. I just use a volt meter on mine.

 

I am building a faceplate to cover the forward end of the console - surrounding the CB in the tray slot, and mounting the 2 voltmeters over the 2 cupholders.

The starting battery condition is not critical, but since I am wiring one gauge, I thought may as well do two, and monitor both batteries.

 

How did u do that with the shell on?

 

I used a ratchet strap.

But, I only had to move the bedsides a very small amount.

How far off are yours?

 

Not a bit as far as I can tell. I think having a shell actually prevents them from spreading. I bought a set and dreaded the thought of taking the shell off. Will use your method to install mine.

On another subject, I want to set up the ABS kill switch like you did, but want to use a center mounted push button switch. Does your rocker switch default to them being off when it is not engaged?

 

When the switch is "off", the ABS works. The ABS is only disabled when the switch is "on".

I did the reverse logic by using a normally closed relay. Not energized, relay closed, ABS enabled. Energize relay (switch "on"), relay open, ABS disabled.

 

Where did you get that switch from?

 

Air on Board, I believe.

 

Thanks for taking the time to post this impressive build. I know this was posted years ago, but I am wondering about the blocks. My Deavers are also sagging more than I like. Did you run into any issues etc.? Change your setup? Thanks

 

I am still running the blocks, and have not run into any problems.

I did add air bags, but they are really for when I am loaded for an outing and towing the teardrop.

Doing it again, I would make sure the springs had more arc/lift in them. But no complaints.

 

I tow a small camper like you. I opted for the Deaver stage 3’s with Archive Hammer Hangers as I have a bit of tongue weight on the camper with all I have added. Even with the rear bumper and spare hanging off the rear I still got 4” of lift. It rides very well, handles all the weight with no issues, and the hangers really tightened up the rear.

 

I've read your build threads - very familiar with your setup.

I got these Deavers before they had Stages of Tacoma springs. I would not be surprised if my experience with them lead them to multiple stages of springs. Not a bad experience, just a learning experience.

I like my Deavers, and would certainly run them again. Next time, I would opt for more arc/lift.

I do like the airbags, and the ability to adjust the suspension depending on load.

 

scott, i'm considering changing up from my 255 St Maxx tires to 285's in the At3 XLT's how do your 285's do with the 4:56 gears i have been debating the gear change as well. I've never really wanted to have to regear simply due to expense but towing the camper it may be bennificial. I'd love to make the jump to 285/75/17's (34") then i pretty much know I'd have to regear. I still have some tread left so i'm just looking into things right now.