Scott B.'s 2015 AC Build - Expo Style

Sound Deadening

I started adding sound deadening to the inside of the cab. I added it to the roof and back panel, since I had to pull the headliner and back panel to install the antennas.

I used RAAMmat and Ensolite from RAAM Audio. I have used this product before, and been happy with results, so I chose RAAM for this truck also.

The bare interior panels:




I applied the mat, going for a 90+ % coverage. I really don't think 100% coverage is any/much better than 90%, so I saved some effort.

The mat installed:




And the Ensolite:



This Ensolite is peel-and-stick - really easy to install!

 

Sound Deadening, continued...

Time to do the floor.

I gutted the interior, and laid down mat and Ensolite, just like the roof and back wall.




Mat installed. Here you can see where I cut the mat around the factory drain plugs/holes.





Ensolite installed. I decided not to cut out for the drain holes. Ensolite is soft enough, in the rare event I need to get to a plug, it will be easy to find.




Now to put it all back together!

 

Engine Block Heater

I added an engine block heater. While I do not live in a cold climate, there are mornings that start below freezing. I also travel to snowy/cold climates.

The heater is not a required option, rather a "nice to have" one. Warm oil flows better (faster) through the engine, warm water heats (expands) the various metal components in the engine, getting the pieces to required clearances faster. In other words, the engine sees less wear.

Is the wear significant or negligible? That is a subject of great debate (not to be covered here.) I have been running block heaters for over 20 years, and figured I'd just continue.

Besides, I get warm air out of the heater faster!

I decided to use the Toyota heater, vs. a standard replace a freeze plug style. Since the block was designed for it, why not? The best part was I didn't have to drain the coolant to install it.



The only issue I had was a bracket holding the O2 sensor wire - it was right in the way. And, the 17mm bolt holding it to the engine was waaaay to tight.

Otherwise, nothing to the installation.

(No pictures of the installed unit - you can't really see it.)

 

Looking good. What kind of a difference have you noticed with the deadening you've done. My Access cab seems pretty loud inside with the noise from the road, tires and roof rack. I've been thinking of doing deadening but not sure if it'll be worth it. And have you done the doors? Thanks.

 

No, I have not done the doors yet.

Overall, the noise seems more subdued. I was in the rain the other day, and the raindrops hitting the roof sounded more like a "thud" than a "ping".

However, on the back wall of the AC, there is a black plastic thing that goes through the back wall to the outside - I am getting some noise through it. (You can see it in the pictures above.) I am not sure what it is, but I need to plug it.

It's not a sound chamber, but especially on long trips, it is quieter in the truck. Once I do the doors, the sound system should really perk up, too.

 

That back piece is to equalize cabin pressure, when closing doors and when AC/heat is on. It prevents over pressure in the truck. I plugged mine because of noise and got lots of pressure in my ears and they kept having to be popped. I eventually unplugged it.

 

Thanks for the input. I wondered if it was something like that.

I want to rig up some sort of non-sealing cover, to try and deaden some of the noise coming in through it.

I am going to build a cover panel for the back wall - covered with carpet, to mount fire extinguisher, flashlight and other stuff - hopefully, that will block a lot of the sound.

 

My experience also. Wait till you do the doors! As far as road noise... it definitely helps. Most of the noise comes through the back glass though. Not much you can do about that.

Mine cranks!

 

Yeah - the front window of the shell acts as a sound reflector, right into the back glass.

Good to hear!

Maybe I can get a chance to see/hear your system at Gulches.

 

The latest addition to my trauma kit - Wilderness and Travel Medicine.

A great little guide book - cause you never know.....

 

was the sound deadening difficult? Was it worth it? How many clips did you break in the process?

 

Not difficult but VERY time consuming. Take your time and you won't break any clips. I had one hell of a time putting everything back in cause I put so much CCF and MLV everywhere lol.

I parked my truck for a week and worked on it a little everyday so I didn't get burnt out or rush anything.

 

Difficult? No, just time consuming. You can't rush it, and there are many fasteners you have to remove.

Worth it? I think so. I'll really be able to tell once I do the doors.

The only clips I damaged/broke were the metal ones holding up the front of the overhead console. I pulled, and apparently they didn't like it! I ordered 6 replacements, so I figure I'm good. Otherwise, everything went back together as it was.

I did not reinstall the rear seats or cover panel - I have alternative plans...

 

Scott, Fantastic build you have! I enjoyed reading through the last 5 pages. Please keep up the excellent work. That's awesome you swapped your front diff out solo. I want to do the same in the future. And yes, I have 30 hours into my sound dampening project (doors and roof) done. It's very worth it after having nothing in the doors for so long.

 

Thank you. I enjoy reading your build also. Having lived in SoCal, I miss the desert, and really enjoy your photos and reports. Really glad to see your kids enjoying it too!

Stay tuned - many more projects to go, lots of parts sitting on the garage floor...

 

I usually don't add trip pictures to my build thread like a lot of people do.

With the idea of changing that, here is picture of camp last fall in Parashant.

One thing about the teardrop - it makes cooking (good food) really easy!

 

Will do! Thank you.

That's awesome!

 

Parts are starting to pile up in the garage:



I was working on fitting the sliders, when I realized I would need to modify the frame bracket to allow for the transfer case skid plate. No problem, except I can't mount the skid plate until I reroute the exhaust. After lots of studying, I have determined a solution. Stay tuned.



I ordered a PelfreyBilt standard bumper, but had them do something a little different. This bumper has dual (as in 2) swing out pivots. Since I tow a trailer (seen in the background) a full width swing out would not clear the trailer now that I have a tongue box and fuel cans mounted on the trailer. So, I am going to build my own swing outs.

 

I picked up some new recovery gear.

Gator Jaws

I saw these in use at the Appalachian Rendezvous last year. It is amazing how strong they are, and being not made of steel, much safer in the event of a recovery system failure.



Hitchlink II

I used to put the end of a 2" strap in my receiver and secure it with a pin. Worked fine to pull or be pulled. However, now that I have switched to recovery ropes, using this technique can lead to a bent pin in the receiver.

I picked the Factor 55 Hitchlink II because of its light weight (and obvious build quality.) With all the gear I carry in my truck, I figure ounces saved leads to pounds...



Unfortunately, it is not going to stay that pretty with use.

 

that trailer is rad!! Who is it made by? Time to install those parts....