Sealant on Fender Flares

Full strength can sometimes be hard on trim. It's generally just not necessary to use it full strength. And full strength in sunlight can cause spotting/discoloration on black trim/rubber.

Cleaning trim well before applying a trim sealant really helps the sealant to bond much better.

 

Thank you appreciate the feedback
My black trim is in need
Any feedback on vinyl cleaning
I had my roof wrapped

 

What sealants leave minimal to no residue? I am going to tape the flares off to keep them clean but with my luck the sealant will still end up on them.

 

Opti-seal for sure. There are so many sealants it will be hard to list them all.

 

Ill have to check it out! Im new to the world of sealants.

 

I found out the other day Optimum now has an "improved" version of Opti-Seal available. It is under their Opti-Coat brand & is called Hyper Seal. I exchanged emails with an Optimum rep about the differences between Opti-Seal & Hyper Seal & this is what he said: "Opti-Coat Hyper Seal is a new product that improves on Opti-Seal - it's more durable, has greater gloss/slickness, can be applied to all exterior surfaces, and does provide UV protection." I also read in a forum post where Hyper Seal "should last 25-50% longer than Opti-Seal."

The only place I see to purchase it right now is through the Opti-Coat website. None of the car care websites seem to offer this new line yet.

http://opti-coat.net/opts/hyper-seal

 

What do you mean by “full strength”?

 

"full strength" = using all purpose cleaner right out of the bottle. APC is generally pretty strong stuff. And for many cleaning tasks, "full strength" just isn't necessary (i.e. cleaning rubber trim).

Example: spill a little coffee on your seat, you don't need a super concentrated degreaser/detergent (APC) to get it out. Super concentrated degreaser/detergent might actually cause a lightening/discoloration/staining of the fabric. But SOME cleaner is necessary. So, you dilute the APC. One part APC to 10 parts water, for example. Or 1 to 5. Always use the minimum amount required to get the job done in order to "cause no harm". No hard and fast rules here, just be smart (ex. many "spills" can simply be cleaned with water).

In the detailing world, it's simply a "safe practice" to dilute APC's for the task at hand. Especially when working on OTHER people's vehicles. You don't wanna damage someone else's vehicle. Chemical cleaning products can be harsh on certain materials and cause permanent damage. Dilute when you can. APC's can be VERY hard on plastics, especially if left to dry in the sun.

Here's a perfect example of damage that can be caused by cleaning products. I used some Sea Foam Bug Remover to clean bugs off my truck TODAY. I sprayed down the dried bugs on the front of my truck, let it dwell for a couple minutes, then sprayed off with the hose. Bugs came off effortlessly. No scrubbing needed. That's why i got the Bug remover (it's essentially an APC). Success.

I also sprayed it on my rear view mirrors. But I forgot I did it and moved on to something else. I didn't get it rinsed off in a timely manner, it dried in the sun, and guess what...



It actually damaged the plastic. Chemical cleaning products are HARSH. They're also very effective when used appropriately. But shit can go south quickly when you're not paying attention. Had this been someone else's vehicle, I'd have been devastated.

So this is an example of using a very strong cleaning product and not getting it rinsed off in time. Had I rinsed it off in two minutes, I'd have been fine. But 10 minutes and it caused permanent damage. Had I diluted the product, the damage wouldn't have occurred.

Was full strength product needed? Nope. I probably coulda wiped the bugs off with a wet towel. And now I have shitty looking rear view mirrors. I knew better. I got lazy.

 

I had no idea that existed. Will definitely check it out.

 

Ahh.
I thought you meant full strength sealers. I wasn’t sure what that was.

 

I used cquartz Dlux as a sealant on my pro grill and mud flaps. It has worked great and i notice dirt washes off alot easier.
Capro pearl is a nice satin sheen look for a dressing

 

So use this stuff on black trim and or tonneau cover?
My black turns white fairly quickly

 

Yes. It's safe, quality, and you will be happy with the beading.


Downside: It's not as cheap as some other methods

 

Yep just rub it in. The consistency and appearance of the sealant is almost like a vegetable oil. A terry cloth type towel works best in my experience.

 

Do you run your truck through auto washes?

 

No

no never

 

Another product that is super easy to apply is Blackfire Si02 sealant. I have sprayed it onto the trim and it will bead up just like the paint.
Not sure about the long term durability yet.

 

There was a product mentioned on AG a few months ago that did an AMAZING job restoring and protecting black plastic trim. Anyone remember what product it was?

It was NOT a trim product. I think it was a polish or paint cleaner. Can't remember for sure.

 

This thread may be of interest...
https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...lastic-trim.html?highlight=toyota+fender+trim

 

Looks like the trim in that AG thread wasn't the textured black plastic on vehicles today. Almost looked like it was clear coated? I'm not familiar with those over genders on 1st gens.