Sealing front doors

I looking for some input on a reasonable method for sealing up the front doors. I've seen and searched some of the methods, but I am looking for some specific Tacoma input. Note that I am not a hardcore fabricator, so no plexiglass or fiberglass methods please. I know that might not be a good def'n for "hardcore fabricator", but what the hell, I think it gives you some idea of what I'm looking at.

My skills are with basic hand tools and some thin-guage aluminum, tin snips, Dremel. Right now, I have a set of Focal components in the front doors and a 10" sub in the back. The doors are vibration damped now, but with no sound barrier. Wasn't planning on sound barrier as yet, maybe later down the road, unless it's actually a part of the door sealing.

What do you think?

 

Cut out sheet metal to cover the holes in the door. Rivet or screw them in place. Use a CLD (vibration dampner) to cover them and seal up the air holes.

that is about all you can quickly and effectively do, and it will definitely help. But as long as you are in there. putting some MLV in place should be no big deal...

 

Think aluminum would be effective enough, or is sheet metal required? Also, are you saying to use CLD just on that patch panel, and any other small holes, or is there value in vibration damping the entire inner skin?

I may put some MLV in the doors later. Door panel removal is quick so I can do that at any time. I usually like to make one change at a time so I know what affect it has.

 

Sheet aluminum should be fine. Just be sure to throw some dampener on it.

 

I could write a book on this...

First... the hole blockage MUST go BEHIND the holes in the door or with MLV and foam your door panel wont fit back on no matter how thin it is... you will have to warp your door panel to get it to fit and you dont want that. Catch the head of the screw all the way around and not screw up your paint and invite rust (I didnt figure this out till too late). Third... you can get creative to find a stiff and resonant free hole covering material. I used cardboard, hardened with the resin for fiberglass, covered with vibration dampener and covered with 1/8" foam on both sides. Its nearly impossible to seal the spot where the wires come through on the top hole. You will use a lot of whatever it is you want to use to seal that spot. I gave up on that sopt. You will eventually need new mounting tabs to hold the lower door panel on if you use MLV and foam. I live in Houston so I can meet up and help show you sometime if you like. Went through lots of trial and error on the door panels and MLV install.

 

Thanks all for the input, just what I needed. DevL, didn't know you were from Houston, might take you up on your offer.

IS, don't you have MLV and foam on the doors? And if so, did you have lower door panel problems like DevL?

Last, the door isn't actually all sealed up no matter what you do right? Since the top window seal doesn't totally seal and also there are drain holes at the bottom of the door.

 

My DIY here
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/115796-diy-sealing-deadening-your-door-panels.html

 

This is untrue. I have 3 layers on my door panels over unbreakable lexan on the outside of the door panel (Interior side of the truck) with plenty of room for more. This USED to be the 'rule of thumb' pre 90s where most door panels were flat, but not anymore.

 

I used made cardboard templates and traced it on to sheet metal. Cut out the sheet metal (thin galvanized). I used the thin butyl rope from parts express and ran it around the the hole. Press the steel on there and secure with self tapping sheet metal screws. I then covered the door with some second skin, closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl.

 

Sub'ed, take pics OP so we can learn from you.

 

Here ya go!




Sorry just read the title but you get the picture!

 

The curve of my door panel goes right up to the top hole in the front door panel. I could not get my door panel back on with a sandwich of 1/8" foam/MLV1/8" foam over the covered hole. I saw your pics with the Lexan and had no idea how you got your door panel back on. Still... mounting from the inside and using screws to clamp the outside lip on the hole works perfectly and means no holes drilled into sheet metal. That is the correct way to do it and have it easily reversible and reinstallable for working on the inside of the door.

I have to admit though, I didnt notice a difference in sealed doors with the MLV/foam sandwich in place vs uncovered holes with MLV/foam in place.

 

There are contact points built into the door panel. You can use a sander to sand them down a bit. I just sanded off the amount of space I was adding between the panel and the door.

 

Again, i am going to respectfully disagree. Just because you think this is the "correct way" doesn't mean it's the right way. The reason for this, is because that piece will fall off because it is not screwed into your door, using the head of the screws to hold it to the door is not the way to go about this. Not only are you not getting a good seal it's just plain flimsy. When it falls off (and it will) it'll be rattling inside your door panel and scratching the hell out of your window far before you can get it back out.

 

My way is perfect! JK! Its removable, solid as a rock, and 4 small screw holes no one will ever know is there. You can do it any way you want. Just like everyone else's opinion my is right
People, Do your own research and come up with "your" best method.
You are only limited by your time, money, skill and patience.

 

^You did do it right

 

Well, that's interesting. Now I need to consider just an MLV/foam scenerio... You don't play fair!

BTW, thanks everyone for their input, just what I needed. I will be figuring out what I want to do, but it will be awhile before I get to it. I had rotator cuff surgery a few weeks ago, so it will be awhile before I actually do something, but doesn't mean I can't plan.