Second battery on 3rd gen

So im a little confused, does a solenoid provide a separate switch so that you can turn the aux on if the first one dies? or does it allow them both to run evenly at the same time? In either case, what are the advantages and disadvantages

 

I just finished installing the off grid kit in my 3rd gen. I have both batteries installed in the stock location and have an ARB compressor under the hood. I can tell you matt's kit is top notch, and the customer service cannot be beaten. I took this picture on the fly before I could tidy up some wiring. I'll be making a post this weekend detailing the installation with better pictures.

 

Here's another set-up using the Off-Grid battery tray and some other components: https://adventure-ready.com/2016-toyota-tacoma-dual-battery-system-alu-cab-equipment/

 

The problem with side by side is that is puts a bunch of weight in one spot that is supported partly by the radiator support. Crom has a good discussion of this in his build thread.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-getaway-croms-build-and-adventures.362772/

 

but how much of a difference does this really make....i tried searching Croms thread....couldnt find it lol

 

Weight ahead of the axle is never good when it can be avoided. Long-term you may see metal fatigue, but I doubt it will be a REAL problem. If it's would be an option to move it back it would be better... but for most mild usage it's not a problem.

 

yeah ill just put it where most people put their compressor, and use a electric compressor via the AC plug in the bed.

 

For the intents and purposes of a dual-battery application, think if a solenoid as a switch that can connect or disconnect the two batteries.

You will have a positive lead from the main battery running to the solenoid, and a continuation of this positive lead from the solenoid to the positive of your aux battery. By default the solenoid will be off and keep the two batteries disconnected, but the solenoid will also have a 12v "on/off" lead, that will connect the two positive leads if you apply power to this on/off lead.

The simplest setup involves finding an existing "switched" 12v source (ie. 12v when the truck is running, 0 when the truck is off) and connecting this to the on/off lead on the solenoid. This means when the truck is running, the batteries will be connected in parallel, allowing your aux battery to charge from the truck's electrical system. On the other hand, when the truck is not running, the batteries will not be connected, so any appliances you've got connected to the aux battery will not be able to drain your main battery. This is the whole point of keeping the batteries "isolated," and is considered the default/automatic mode.

To make things a bit cooler, you can add a

$20 Blue Sea Systems 2146 SPDT Remote Control ON-OFF-ON Contura Switch for ML Automatic Charging Relays,grey

manual three-way switch (this is what I'll be doing). The middle/default position of the switch will not affect anything and will let the above setup do its thing (ie. automatic).

The top position is a "forced connection" that will turn the solenoid on regardless of whether the truck is running or not - this is useful if you somehow manage to kill your main battery and want to jump-start yourself using the aux battery; just flip the switch and start the truck, then put it back into auto mode.

The bottom position is a "forced disconnect" - it is connected in the middle of the "switched" 12v source, allowing you to disconnect the batteries even if the truck is running. This would be useful if you just jump-started your main battery and wanted the truck's electrical system to charge that battery instead of both batteries at the same time.

 

I'll be doing something similar w/ a portable compressor in the bed (inside driver's side storage cubby). Mine will be hooked up to the electrical panel I'm working on (this one will live in the driver's side corner of the canopy/shell):



More details in my build thread (see signature).

 

Whats a good battery cable (4gauge) source?

 

Amazon. And I'd get 2AWG. Run thicker than necessary so you're prepared for any mods you'll want to do in the future (such as adding a winch that'll draw a ton of current). This is the wire I bought:

$93 EWCS 2 Gauge Premium Extra Flexible Welding Cable 600 Volt - Red - 25 Feet - Made in The USA

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KD2756W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . Haven't actually installed it yet (picking up crimp tool later tonight), but it's pretty flexible and looks to be of good quality.

 

@0210 thanks!

Do you need a special crimper for the copper terminals? I have a standard wire and coax cable crimper.

 

might want to look into what a compressor draws. bed plug is only good for 400watt and I'm pretty sure most 120V compressors will draw more than that, unless you have some little 1gal compressor. still not sure on what those would draw, you would have to check the specs.

 

Not "special," but one that's capable of handing 2AWG wire. I originally ordered this one:

$40 Parts Express Pro Crimp Tool for Non-Insulated Terminals 8-2 AWG

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KR9MU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ... but only after it shipped did I realize it would not arrive for a month. Didn't noticed that when buying it, so I started looking for one to buy locally and over the border in the US - checked Lowes, Home Depot, Harbor Freight, Canadian Tire, Rona, Canadian Lowes & HD, Princess Auto, KMS Tools, Lordco... no one had anything even remotely suitable.

So on Sunday I ended up ordering this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/300991159574?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT ... because it would arrive much faster (delivery Today). Lo and behold, the first one arrived on Monday, while the Amazon page still promised delivery no sooner than the middle of November. Total clusterfuck on that end.

Anyways, the second/ebay one is much more capable, so that's the one I'd recommend.

And these are the lugs I got:

YONGCUN 2AWG x 1/2" Cable Lugs Battery Terminals Tubular Cable Lugs Copper Lugs Pack of 10pcs Stud Size 1/2" Wire Size 2AWG

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K9MQKNO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Also, read through the first few pages of this thread: http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...ke-a-cheap-isolated-dual-battery-setup-for-50 . Tons of awesome information.

 

crimper you say?
I used this to do my buddys jeep
http://www.greenlee.com/products/12-Ton-Crimper-Indent%40c-Li%40dIon%40c-Standard%40c-120V.html?product_id=31031
hahahaha
No I did not go out and buy a $3800 crimp, just borrowed it from work. After using these all the time I will never pick up a manual one. These things are the best.

Sorry, just really love these haha.

Where are you tapping into for your switched 12v?
I was going to get the off grid kit but still not sure where to tie into.

 

Damn, now that's a serious tool!

There is a switched 12v in the main fuse box. I know cause I already tapped it (fuse tap) for my front camera.

I'm going to run:
- 2AWG from the main battery to the aux battery
- 12-14AWG from the 12V switched fuse tap to inside the canopy
- 2AWG from the main battery to inside the canopy
- 2AWG from the aux battery to inside the canopy

The 12v switched is going to go into a distribution block; the connections from the dist block will go out to relays for anything I need to have controlled by switched 12v. The power for all accessories will come from either of the two fuse boxes I have in my photo above (one powered by main battery, another by aux).

This will allow me to run stuff off the 1) main battery always-on, 2) main battery switched, 3) aux battery always on, 4) aux battery switched, and not have to run any more cables under the truck.

Going to rewire all canopy stuff and get rid of the wire the install guys ran to the main battery (or repurpose it for the switched 12V control), as I can't stand the mess they made. Then I'm going to finally hook up my rear dash camera to the main switched source. Then I'm going to wire up another 12v socket from always-on aux for my fridge. Then I think I'll add a few strips of LED lights on the canopy windoors and rear window. Then a flux capacitor.

 

sweet good to know.
Ya my plan is have nothing but factory stuff off main battery then winch and some lights and maybe one day a fridge off the aux battery. Was thinking of maybe setting it up with two fuse blocks, one always on one switched.

And oh ya, those greenlees are amazing. We were given 3 of them on one job as trials to see if we like them then the company got a bunch of them. Same with the electric cable cutters and knockout kits. all are the same price and we were given 3 of each as trials haha. They're great. But when it comes to terminating 500KCMIL cable and multiple runs of it, pays to have those tools. We had one blow up on us one day so were left with one. One guy was using a manual one the other guy using the electric that still worked, with electric had 40 cables terminated in 3 hours other guy had like 10 haha. Just makes a big difference on the large cable. You need to crimp them anywhere from 6-10 spots depending what type of terminal you are putting on so its time consuming. When it comes to those types of terminations as well if they are for continuous loads like these were, inspectors are picky on it. I've seen them ask for crimps cut open to inspect. But when you're talking 8000amp 600volt systems...ya they don't fuck around. Something not terminated properly can cause hot spots and arc flashes.

 

@Akroedge540 looking at your setup, did you run the negative terminal on the Bluesea box to the frame as a ground or back to the negative terminal on the battery?

 

Fender ground.