Secondary air injection switching valve.......?

So far so good. I used electrical contact cleaner because that's what I had, but carb cleaner would probably work better. I didn't want to spend the money or wait for the plates either! Still don't know why it's not throwing the closed code though...

 

I also had to drill out the small screws and replace them, man were they stuck!

 

Did you take the whole valves out of the engine or just the top parts. I mean the valves are like clam shell and tighten by screws. I really want to do it before things get rusty. Any particular problem I need to watch out while doing it?

 

I pulled out the valve housing with the connectors on it, the metal piece the valve screws into and the flapper valve itself. Best advice...pb blaster on all the torx bolts and let them soak over night. Then, the valve and metal piece are held together with screws. These screws don't hold that piece to the valve body, it just kinda sticks on there. Use pb blaster on these as well and try to not break them off.

 

Knocked out my replacement today- unfortunately wasn't able to get many pics because I was racing the sun and running low on light.
If you Can change your oil, you can change your secondary air valves.
Two forward bolts broke on me but it was good since they snapped and remaining bits were lodged in the valves coming out.
to remove the whole unit- I had to remove two aft flange nuts[connected to metal lines] (size m10 I believe); two forward bolts(same size); and a bottom bolt(most time consuming to get to m12 I believe).

Still bullshit though- I'm calling Toyota ca tomorrow to see who is going to explain to me why this is not covered under warranty.

I already submitted my complaint to the nhtsa.
You guys should also submit one-
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/
takes less than 3 mins.
Maybe we can try making something of it.

 

Will do! Let us know how the phone call goes.

 

I've done this as well. This is an emission control part and should carry a longer warranty.

FYI, for California the air pump and the air switching valve is covered for 7 years or 70K miles (page 25 of warranty book). This should be the standard for this prone to failure part.

 

Exactly what I told them. That it is an emissions component falling under that warranty.
But since I have a Canadian taco now the rep switched the reason to not cover to Canadian vehicles not adhering to US emission warranty. So now I have to research Canadian emissions regs.

But for those of you wth a us taco- I think you have a great chance of getting this covered.
It's there in black and white in plain English- diverter valves as part of the air injection system- covered for failure due to manufacturer defect.

Challenge whoever you inquire with to explain how it is not covered under this warranty and see what they say.
I'm curious to see what reasons they give to keep ducking and dodging this issue.

 

I will submit a nhtsa complaint tonight! Hopefully if we all keep after them something will come of it.

 

I have had some great info on this thread for my problem. Same issue as most of you guys, same responses from Toyota too. I had my 2012 DC 4X4 go into limp mode yesterday morning. It has 93K miles. Took it to the muffler shop assuming it was the CAT on preliminary research. They couldn't identify the problem - no charge. Took it to Toyota yesterday evening and called me back by 6PM with the problem and a hefty quote. It was the P2440 and P2442 codes for the secondary air injection system valves stuck open in bank 1 and 2. Quote included new valves, pump, and a few minor recommendations like air filters and alignment for $3300.46!!!!!!

For those just learning of this problem, my truck was running along normal. All of a sudden my truck lost thrust and RPMs climbed sky high. It seemed like I couldn't go over about 35 MPH at first. Actually, it had gone into limp mode or safe mode which keeps you in 2nd gear at around a max of 2500 RPMs. This means on the downhill, you can get up to 60+ MPH as long as you don't exceed 2500 RPMs but by the time you start up hill and hit the top, you're back down to 30 MPH.

Anyways, I'm not paying that for a fix. The bypass system seems like a legit way to solve this problem. My buddy has seen this issue before so I'm going to let him look at it first to see if I need the bypass kit or if he can remove the CAT, pump, valves and all by straight piping the whole system.

Hewitt-Tech Inc. tells me they are working on a solution to be able to scrap all of it and keep us on the road. Like their page to get their updates. Meanwhile calls and appeals to Toyota have yielded no results. I've been driving the Yota since Fall 2011 with no problems whatsoever. It's a little frustrating to not only get no support from Toyota, but also no information either. My recommendation would be to verify your problems codes and find Hewitt-Tech's bypass kit for $350-$500 on your model. Both the codes list and Hewitt's website are linked in this forum in several places.

PS. bypassing the system without blocking it off with plates is a bad idea. Condensation and exhaust can creep back into the pump, causing rust, failure and potential fire risk based on other forums and similar issues with Dodge and Mercedes. I believe Hewitt-Tech's bypass kit does include plates to prevent backflow of any kind.

 

Hi Daniel. Welcome and thank you for your first post. We are already aware of the Hewitt Tech by-pass. As I understand it, it does work but there's another code that pops up due to this bypass that Hewitt Tech is aware of and currently working on for a fix.

 

Code came back a few days after I blocked off the valves. On a bright note, this code doesn't result in limp mode. I haven't got it checked but I assume it is the stuck closed version of the P codes. Am still planning on doing the resistor mod to the AIT, but at least I can drive the truck without worry. Also, with the CEL and Trac off lights, you will not have operation of the ATRAC system. If you bring the truck up to full operating temp then shut it off and quickly disconnect the neg battery cable, wait 10 seconds or so and reconnect, and then restart the truck, it will clear the code and it will not reappear until the next cold start or the next. This will allow you to still wheel the damn thing with the CEL light on.

 

Had a code after using the bypass kit for a while as well, temp sensor indicator.

Could you elaborate on the resistor mod?

 

Good info. Is anyone aware of a cheaper solution to fix the issue all together or remove the system from the computer?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/attachments/diy-aip-override-1-1-1-pdf.915618/

 

I'm going to wire in the resistor using the manual switch method, in order to hopefully circumvent the issue Twalt is having with the relay.

 

Thanks for these. I just bought the hewitt tech module and it works fine for me, if I would have seen this (surprised I didn't after reading the tundra solutions thread) I would have went this route.

 

You talk like a saleman

 

Just updating, received an email from Toyota hq in regards to durability of my Tacoma and regarding this issue. Maybe they might be looking into it finally...