Secondary air injection switching valve.......?

Edit: My battery was going bad and after I replaced my battery everything is working as should and fixed the problem. The bypass seems to be working fine



Well hell now I am getting this code!?

Ever got that?
@Large

 

I wish
Going to get some MAF sensor cleaner
Maybe that will clear my code
Idk

 

Bummer, maybe shoot Hewitt a email also.

 

Did that and called
He is unavailable for July 4th weekend until Tuesday

 

found this post several times on the tundra threads related to the code P0113 after the bypass install from Paul in 2013...

"A very small percentage of vehicles have shown a P0113 code after installing the bypass module. The IAT sensor circuit on these vehicles is outside of the factory specifications and so far I have built a few custom replacement modules to address this problem. I would like to thank those customers who were patient while I came up with a solution. I am now working on a new circuit design and connection arrangement that should eliminate the IAT variance so this is not a problem in the future."

 

Swapped out my bank 1 & 2 today. Lots of pics to come and some findings ..

 

New valve assembly ^


New next to old ^


Old one removed ^


New assembly in place.

A few notes to say, this was a pain in the ass. I removed the front passenger wheel/tire to more easily access a couple of the bolts, I would recommend doing that to anyone swapping out their valve assemblies. One of the bolts I was trying to remove broke, so I had to make a stop at the hardware store. I used some anti-seize on all of the bolts and nuts, I am sure this shit will fail again and it will just make it easier in the future. More pics to come ..

 

Alright on to the next order of business. I wanted to see exactly how this shit works, so what better way to do that than to put a hammer to it and obliterate it? None that I can think of ...



^^^ When you remove the valve 1 and valve 2 from the assembly this is what it looks like, in the center, that's actually a piston with an o-ring on it. I am not sure if it moves with 12VDC power or exhaust gasses, I am guessing the latter of the 2. But this is where the thrown codes come in to play. When the pistons seize up, it will throw stuck open bank 1, stuck closed bank 1, open bank 2, closed bank 2. Each of those actions has a code associated with it, and when it happens the truck will go in to limp mode. A side note; bank 1 is closest to the front of the truck, bank 2 is closer to the cab. If there is any way to change just the failing bank, I would do that. BUT when I did my disassembly, one of the T-25 bolts stripped :-\


^ Closed valve


^ Open valve

 

And here is where I took a hammer to it

 

I wonder if sea foam would prevent the carbon build up?

 

Hey large,

Do the valves have any spring(inside)? If they do then I think they open when the pump is on and close when the pump is off. It is like the check valve in plumbing, air only flows in one way. You can test them by blowing through them to see if they open. Waiting your feed back on this. I have '12 model and don't have this problem yet. Right now I'm trying to gather info as much as possible when needed.

 

Not sure, I don't think there were springs in there though. I tried to bust it open but it was stout.

 

So screw Toyota and all their BS.
My buddy bought a 2014 taco tonight with 30,000 miles.
Pulling my valves and throwing in his truck.
Can't wait to see the crap they try to pull to not cover this under the 36,000 mile warranty now ....screw em all

 

Check out all that moisture behind my valves...haven't been driving anywhere near water in a looooong time except for occasional summer showers. Heck my truck has been sitting for 3-4 weeks

 

That's interesting!

 

It may just be condensation from the hot exhaust on a short start up and idle. Have you started the engine at all in 3 weeks?

 

Yeah I have cranked it maybe 4-5 times
The problems the tundra owners were having was condensation staying in and rusting and that is what was making the switching valves go bad...figure that was what this was. The pumps don't stay on long enough to "dry" out any moisture that might get pulled in through the pump.

 

I'm curious and I don't think I've seen it mentioned, but do the 2012 models pumps do the run cycle after the truck has been sitting off for a few hours? Because I know for at least what must be 2013+ however many hours after the truck has been shut off the system turns on and cycles for however long.

I mean idk if it matters at all, since know a few people with 12+ reported the issue as well, but maybe those were just the outlier pumps that crapped out prematurely and it's being misconstrued like it is a continuing problem the 2012s and Tundras are having and 4Runners. Like the guy with the 2015 where the pump crapped out at 7k....might just be that it was one of the statistical # that fail?

 

That's what I was wondering that if the condensation was part of the cause.