Secondary air injection switching valve.......?

I have not done the bypass kit. I would if I were sure it would fix the problem.

It originally came on about 35,000 miles, it took a while to get parts, so replaced about 37,000. I would have to check the invoice to say exact numbers.

The new parts lasted about 13 months and 8,000 miles.

Original parts went bad at 35k miles, 45k now, I pulled the pump cover off, filter and fan are fine, this is purely a stuck valve issue.

 

Well it supposedly shuts down the pump which is basically the root problem.

Dirty pump> dirty valve> codes.

 

My pump is new, inside and out. I checked it.

 

http://giphy.com/gifs/christian-bale-cQhWrl1CrGD04
Well that is weird.

What are you going to do next?

 

I really don't know. The check engine light cleared itself but the code is still there. I intended to keep this truck as long as possible, hopefully many more years. Right now I'm thinking it's time to trade it.

 

Once you clear the codes, the operation of the pump will cause the codes to reappear. That is in the case of a "stuck closed" code anyway. So if your valves are: stuck closed, modified like mine, or have the block-off plates installed, and you install the bypass, which tells the pump not to operate...then you will no longer have the codes appear. The stuck closed codes will not cause limp, but will disable TRAC.

Stuck open codes, I believe, can appear whether the pump is operating or not and will cause limp mode.

 

But regardless, the bypass fixes this issue correct?

 

Man your new valves only got you another 8k? That's horrible, I wonder why they failed so early the second time.

 

I have no idea?

 

I haven't done the bypass yet, I'm just clearing the codes every other day with the torque app on my phone for now.

But, from what I understand the bypass kit will "fix" the problem, and by fix I mean it will prevent the pump from operating and throwing codes.

If you want to get by without spending much money (like me) you can block the valves by taking them apart and flipping over one of the pieces. then get a $10 Bluetooth OBD2 reader and a free torque lite app and you're good. No more limp mode, and if you don't mind clearing the codes every other day or so you're done for ten bucks and an hour of labor.

 

Just had this happen to my girlfriend's 2012 Tacoma, with 40k mikes on it. Toyota needs to start fixing these damn issues under a TSB or something.

 

I decided I wasn't going to wait to find out. It's really disappointing, we all know Toyota can do better.

 

Make sure to file a complaint with the NHTSA, also call corporate Toyota and open a case. They won't do anything about it but I'm hoping enough people do it and something comes out of it.

 

3/6/2017 my 2012 Taco popped the 2440/2442 codes and went into limp mode on my drive home, luckily I don't have any highway driving to get home. I am at 135k miles, so i guess in a way I am lucky compared to most posters in this thread that had early failures. After reading through the other 12pg thread yesterday and then scanning through the 32pgs here, I decided to just buy a new valve and gaskets from toyotaonlineparts.com which came in at $450 with shipping. I plan to try to get detailed pictures and document the swap in a DIY thread that I will link here.

These two post are my only fear with swapping the valves, hopefully I get another 135k mile part. I am thinking that I will likely take them apart every 10k and clean them also to try to avoid any issues, or at least track any build up of carbon on them.

 

Maybe I'm just lucky?

 

I think you forgot the "un"

Opened up the pump, impeller is squeaky clean and there is no foam deterioration. Hopefully the new valve I get is a good one and lasts me another 135k!

 

So this is the update. My GF's has a 12' TRD Sport 4x4 with 50k miles, so her powertrain warranty is still good. Toyota told me today that they would cover the cost of parts but we would have to pay the $200 labor fee. Not sure where this is coming from but I figured they would cover everything.

 

Your lucky you got anything covered, pay the $200 with a smile and move on before they change there minds. I was under powertrain warranty when mine failed and was told to pound sand and the same with others on the board.

 

It took about 8 days to get the part (25710-31022 air switch valve assembly) from toyotapartsestore.com but saved about $150.00 compared to the dealership part cost! I ended up spending another $3.00 on a couple (17377-31010 air tube gaskets) which I recommend buying before you go to switch the part out yourself as I bent one in the removal! Brand new to DIY mechanics but this took me and a buddy about 2.5-3 hours total. I took a lot of pictures that I'll post and briefly describe to hopefully help someone else out. Thanks to everyone who has been posting on here before me!