Secondary air injection switching valve.......?

Idk if yours were frozen but mine were.
I took a hammer to my seized ones, you can find the pics 20ish pages back.. they are trash really.

 

P2440/P2442 at 172k km in British Columbia. Manual tranny so limited to 2000 rpm - at least I can still make it to 100km/h (65mph) but long time to get there. It reset on its own over the weekend but then came back on yesterday. Dealer wants $120 to plug into the computer so I think I will forget about trying to get it done under warranty - fairly high mileage from what I'm reading here anyway.

 

Sorry to hear this has happened, at least you got 172k, lot of people here got a lot less. When mine fail, which we know will happen I am going with the Tundra valve from Rockauto. The only thing I would do before ordering the valve, is make sure the 8 screws that hold your existing valve tops in place to the housing will come lose. Good luck and keep us informed.

 

When ordering the Tundra Valves from Rockauto, what model year Tundra did you choose?

 

2012 5.7

 

Hey folks, figured I would chime in with my experience with this issue. I had codes P2440/2442 for both valves stuck open on my 2012 Tacoma with 33k miles. I tried clearing them but every time I would get on the throttle, the CEL/TRAC OFF lights would come back on. My vehicle is out of warranty so I did not go to Toyota.

I read through all 40 pages of this thread before I decided to go with the Dorman valves for the Tundra. I figured if the OEM parts are not revised from the stock ones and will just have this issue pop up again, might as well get the aftermarket part for a third of the cost.

Since others had problems with the T25 screws breaking off when they tried to remove them, I hit them with some Kroil for a couple days while I was waiting for the parts to arrive. The screws came out without issue. Once they were all out, a light tap from a mallet was enough to get the valves unseated.

New Dorman valve


Old valve


Reed valve stuck open


There was quite a bit of moisture in the hoses just behind the valves. I assume this came from water in the exhaust that pushed up past the valves when they were stuck open. I dried them out before reattaching. I removed the little bracket for the wiring harness in order to get it to reach the rear valve since the Dorman connectors are facing the opposite direction.

Before


After


All in all, it was a pretty simple install. Took about 45 minutes. While I was in there, I went ahead and did the breather filter mod for the pump as well. Stock foam was intact and the impeller was clean.

Pump photos:

Spoiler

Sorry for the photo-heavy post!

 

My new Tundra valves arrived today. Under $170 with the 5% off discount from Rockauto. Ill install as soon as the temp gets above freezing around here or my lights come back on (which ever comes first). This would be the 3rd set of valves for my 13 TRD. First ones went at 42,000 second ones just went around 63,000.

 

@slyfox75 was looking for someone with a 13 or later that was throwing a code to see if his bypass kit worked on this model year when Toyota added the pump to run during shutdown. I believe the principle of his kit is to fool the ECU to think the temp is at a range where the pump doesn't run.

 

Rayoui. The new Tundra top and reed valve, do they sit into the Tacoma base as if they were designed to? the reason I ask is in your pictures the Tundra top has a rubber gasket, the Tacoma does not. Did you clear the codes before or after the install and was that before the first start up? Sorry for the questions but I know my truck will be giving out sometime in the future, I am at 34000 miles. Thanks

 

The stock Tacoma valves have the gasket as well, it just came detached before I took the picture. The Tundra valves sit on the Tacoma base the same as the stock valves.

I cleared the codes before I started but I don’t think it matters either way. Just disconnect your battery while you are doing the work and the codes should be cleared when you hook everything back up.

 

Wow 3 sets?! I was ticked that I have had one failure at 53k, 3 I think I would loose it. You have a 2013 to which is supposed to evacuate moisture on shutdown, guess it doesn't help.

 

Good morning! Been reading through this thread but not all of it, I have a few questions hopefully you guys can clarify for me. A little history as to where I am now...currently at 201,000 miles on my '05 Tacoma 4 cyl Prerunner. Had the dreaded codes pop up at around 190,000 miles with no engine limp mode. Took my intake pump off yesterday and found a nasty corroded horribly rusted electric motor with about a quarter of a cup of rusty water in the bottom of the rubber cup that protects the motor. I assume what has happened and I need clarification on this is that my valves on this system must have stuck open which allowed condensation from the exhaust to work its way into my pump housing and build up and begin rusting the electric motor then failed? I ordered a replacement pump from a wrecking yard for $120 shipped. I also ordered from Amazon the modification for the filter that attaches to the outside of the pump housing with a hose clamp that eliminates the need for the foam filter inside the pump housing. My other question is should I try to clean the valves and see if they will work? Or should I just order new valves? Or can I just order the Hewitt-Technology Plug & Play Bi pass kit? Do my valves have to be working correctly for this kit to work or does it totally bypass the valves in the system?

 

Hey guys new here had this happen to me to coming home from work just a few questions probably all ready answered but if someone's willing i'd appreciate it first off would the

$247 Dorman 911-643 Secondary Air Injection Valve

Dorman 911-643 tundra valve swap work on my 2012 v6 tacoma and what would I have to do just take the new valves off the the new housing and put them on the old one? Also when I took the hose off the smog pump there was water coming out I read somewhere that the pump too needs to be replaced but it's not throwing a code for that anyway thanks for reading and if you have any tips I'd appreciate it

 

Is this the part number for the valves you used?......

$247 Dorman 911-643 Secondary Air Injection Valve

Dorman 911-643 tundra valve

 

That’s the one. By the way, I’m at nearly 20,000 miles since I added the Tundra valves with no issue.

 

OK, great. I was gonna edit my page because I saw this was the part but you just reconfirmed it for me. I am putting together a list of parts my truck will/may need due to problems people seem to find......this is indeed one of them. I have no codes, and hope I do not jinx myself. LOL.

So to recap.....get this part (Tundra valves from Rockauto)

Swap them from the base they come on to the motor utilizing the 4 t25 screws.

The one side closet to the firewall I believe you will have to open up the corrugated plastic a little by cutting the electrical tape so you can plug it into the appropriate connector.

Should be it right??

 

Correct, but I believe it was the front valve that needed some slack. It’s a fix only minorly harder than an air filter.

 

Copy that. I’m contemplating just getting them now and swapping them out before I have these problems. I thought I saw someone else do the same. I’m at 32,620 miles

 

Wait and see. The 13+ trucks have a different shut down cycle and have fewer failures than the 12s. It puts the truck in limp mode but you can clear it by resetting the computer after it has warmed up and get home / get by for a couple days.

 

Great to know..I thought all of them with the seconadary air bullshit had the same problems