Secondary air injection switching valve.......?

Also from what I see, they clean their hands of it by you accepting a user agreement to not circumvent emissions unless it's emissions exempt. My state doesn't test emissions so....
As long as you are still able to set those codes to 'No error reported', an emissions tech that doesn't know what equipment to look for won't know it wasn't there.

 

I have the basic hewitt kit, and had to keep the valves in place, and I still get the occasional code. The basic $500 kit only allows you to delete the pump. It's the valves that throw the codes. To remove the valves, hewitt has sim valves that cost $250 a piece and you need both. This is the easy route, but the most expensive route.
If I did it over, I would've bought the HP Tuner and just turned off the SAIS reporting. I'm in an no-test emission state. In CA I can't speak to your experience with either solution.

 

I appreciate all info trying to weigh my options.
Truck threw a 2445 the other day and put me in limp mode I can’t have that S happen totally unsafe to not have full power.

 

You're not going to be able to get around the readiness monitors showing incomplete.

Just a word of warning.

 

I’m still able to disable the check engine light for say the URD long tube headers?

 

With HP Tuners you can turn off individual codes that would set a CEL but you can not turn off the monitors for those codes nor can you make the monitors show ready/complete for emissions testing if the component(s) they are monitoring aren't in place and functioning.
There's also a few more steps involved in disabling the limp mode for the SAIS besides just turning off the DTC's, I don't recall the details but I believe it's buried somewhere in the HP Tuners thread.

 

Im not worried about the SAIS, since I have the full delete kit anyways. Just don’t want the check engine light for the long tube headers on my dash. They don’t do emissions around here anyways.

 

I'm in FL so no testing either. I just cant figure out how to use the HP tuner thing.

 

Figure I'd drop a link here to my most recent thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/p2440-the-cheap-way.846885/

Since my valve wasn't fully cooked I was able to clean it up and it's back in service with a new little air filter on the pump


The job can be done for almost nothin', or if your valve is trash, junk yards near me sell them for $70-$120. Unsure as to whether valves from tundras and forerunners are cross-compatible, but I'm inclined to think so. If I had to go that route, I'd pop mine off and take it with me to the yard.

 

Fun. Guess I could flash it to a year Pre-SAIS.

 

According to the folks who just chimed in, It seems you might as well just leave the system in, and clean up the valves or get some decent second hands for a cheaper solution. Don't gamble with Cheap knockoff parts though.

The Hewitt rep told me of a guy who 3d printed an enclosure and just sealed the valves in it, and ran their brain that deletes the pump, and that was good enough. But that's still a $500 halfway solution.

 

Where’d you get the air filter?

 

I gotcha:

$7 Air Intake Filter - 1" Universal Breather Filter, Automotive Cold Air Filter, Car Valve Cover Oil Breather Turbo Vent Crankcase Cleaner Accessory, Fits Car Motorcycle (Black)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0D5CNNHYK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

For safety's sake I went with the black filter. because of the adage.
It's every bit as good as a K&N far as I can tell.