Secondary air injection system P2440 and P2442

Insane that that repair costs $2,400, such a joke. You could probably replace the tranny for that much. They really have a monopoly on this whole deal.

 

I might have to go by there tomorrow after work, since Rocky Mount did not want to help me out at all. Mind if I ask how many miles are on your truck? No warranty or anything, just replaced the parts? Pump and valves?

 

When I went in a couple months ago, my rig had 52,000 and is just under 5 years old. The tech told me it under my 5 year/60k warranty and will be fully covered. New pun, valves, filter, hoses and connections. It actually does look like a lot of work done. I am not sure if anything installed is covered under an extended warranty. I do not think it is. The dude told me he is completely knowledgable about what caused the problem, and believes that the new parts should be the fix. It's hard to trust that statement with all the other comments on this thread, but I'll cross my fingers.

 

Dang, was actually hoping your truck had more miles. I'm just over 100,000, and no warranty to speak of. So, maybe just hope that they will help me out in some form and way. Maybe the new parts are actually better parts with modifications or something, because I know Toyota knows about the problem.

 

This issue just happened to my 2012 Tacoma last week. Just hit 54,000 miles. They told me it would cost ~$1900 for the repair. I told them that it was complete BS that I should pay for the repair considering I've bought other Toyota's from them and I've religiously taken it in for service every 5000 miles. Hell, I just bought $1800 worth of tires from them in October '16 (for both of my Toyota vehicles). I called to complain to Toyota customer service and aired my complaints with the service manager. I got a call from them today and they agreed to cover $1500 of the repair. I'm still going to argue that they should pay for the repair in full. This is clearly a design/engineering flaw.

 

So, I just took off the diverter valve assembly and cleaned everything up. Put everything back together and while sitting and running, no engine light. Before, it would come on immediately after starting. My only problem is the smoke after everything heated up. I know it's from the pb blaster that got on the exhaust. I also used carb cleaner on the valve itself and engine degreaser on the rubber parts. Is it safe that all that is burning off? How long does it take to evaporate?

 

Nevermind, I was just wigging out. Just PB smoking. On another thought, the whole cleaning thing didn't work, ordering the part tonight.

 

It usually wont, I tried that on mine first as well. The rubber that surrounds the plunger inside the valves also deteriorates and the valve gets hung up in that as well. For me the rear most valve was the worst, I kept the front valve and now keep it with me when I travel in case this thing starts to act up again. Keeping spare parts and tools in a yota under 100k...who would of thought.

 

That was exactly the case on mine as well. The valve closest to the back of the truck was much worse, the little rubber gasket had almost fully come apart. The one closest to the front seemed to be in better shape, but either way I still get both codes for both valves. Hope the new part has better internal parts. Hope it's here to put on by this weekend. It is a shame having to keep spare parts just in case this acts up.

 

Maybe this Secondary Air Induction Pump Bypass will work for you guys. Go to about page 8 where slyfox75 produced a $45 bypass kit. Works well. Best of luck.

 

I think the bypass kit that will work is what I posted above. Hewitt and RuTech have their versions, but the one that works is from the link I posted above.

I don't have his permission to post his email here but it's in the 4runner forum link I posted.

 

Man the 2012 model really is a ticking time bomb it seems

 

Other than this Air Intake Pump / Valve system, is there anything else I should be aware of!?!

 

I have 100k on the original aip bypass that he copied. No issues. But it is on my 06 tundra. Now in my newer rigs the pump seems to run at every startup regardless of air temp. Just varies in runtime. The original bypass worked cause it made the ecu think it was a warm start everytime, so it would not cycle the system. No fault checking unless the pump runs.I think the 2010+ changes included fault checking the valves and pump at startup, so just the temp hack wont work.

But maybe if I get some time I will try and duplicate my tundra bypass into my fj or taco. But for now I just pull the foam and replace with a uni filter.


Edit- I just pmed slyfox to get his opinion on the newer trucks aip.

Edit- Tundra forums are saying the new ECM update runs the aip at various times while the motor is running. At this point none of the aip bypasses are working on the updated trucks. But no mention on if it effects the v6, so far only v8 guys are talking about it.

 

I was hoping it was an easy fix for you guys. AIP is a nasty problem when it rears it's head.

I guess one could carry an OBD2 scanner on the road to clear the codes when it goes into limp mode, then get going again???

 

Once limp mode is set, you can clear it but the minute you take off it jumps back into limp mode. I tried this so I could get me truck home when it originally started acting up.

 

Has anyone had any problems after the original pump and valves were replaced with new 2016 / 2017 Toyota parts?

 

It's the same parts with the same part numbers. It's not the parts but a design flaw. It will eventually happen again.

 

Are you 100% sure on that? Because the tech at the dealership specifically said that they redesigned the valves, and that they were not the same parts.

 

Lie. When Toyota updates the parts, the part numbers changes.