Secondary air injection system P2440 and P2442

Here is what I ordered from https://www.toyotaonlineparts.com/


Got my parts uninstalled this morning, hopefully have the new part arrives this afternoon and I can get my Taco back on the road. Taking lots of pics and I am still planning to post a DIY thread.

Here is the inside of the valve housing, and the two "stuck open" valves, which clearly are.

 

My apologies if this has been discussed but...

Is there any correlation to the stuck valve occurring to grade of gas regularly used?


I drive a 2014 that's nearing 100,000 miles. This problem hasn't occurred in my truck but I only run premium gas.

 

Gas should have little impact, the likelihood of you not having issues is that the 2013+ ECUs have a software "fix" that blows air through the valves after shutdown to clear the moisture.

 

I run premium only and mine failed at 53k so grade of gas doesn't make a difference. Moisture is what's killing these parts.

 

Just went through the pics I took for DIY thread and here are some showing what a 135k mile valve looks like.

Both valve reeds were definitely stuck open




Lots of carbon build up in the vavle housing




Both bolts on the exhaust intlet (forward) manifold broke off, looking at the bolts in the manifold it appears as if they may have been welded in, not sure though. I replaced them on the install.




And most importantly, after install and clearing the codes I no longer have the lights or limp mode!

 

Nope, I ran 93 octane ethanol free almost exclusively.

 

Started the DIY thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-air-injection-system-p2440-and-p2442.480436/

Removal and install in 2 minutes

 

Hi there - is your 5 year/60k warranty a powertrain warranty?

 

2012 TRDsport dcsb

Started the truck with a warm engine and lights came on. Limped it to the parts store to access a code reader. P2442 code displayed three times.

Limped the rest of the way home. Disconnected the battery for about 15mins to reset computer. Started it up and drove it with no lights.

My question: is there anyway to bypass/delete this injection pump all together? I live in a state that's doesn't do emissions checks. So it's not a priority to me.
Or is it possible to clean and reassemble with new gaskets?
Thanks

 

1: yes

2: no

 

Are you sure? Until you open up the valve assy and see how bad they are "stuck open" it is very well possible that they can be cleaned to keep them from staying open. I plan to make cleaning the valves routine maintenance to try to avoid another part failure.

 

I don't think you will be able to clean them, plus the rubber that surrounds the plunger deteriorates and that's part of the issue as well.

 

2012 TRD - Just went over 100k last week but it looks like I'm limp moding into the dealer sometime tomorrow.
P2440 and P2442 codes just as described. Complaint is on file with the website provided on this site. Thanks for the info. Dangerous when I pulled into highway traffic and it limped up on me.

 

At over 100k miles are you just looking to have the dealership do the labor?

 

That's not the valve. If you pop that out the you'll see the actual valve. The problem is that they used rubber around the pintle and it deteriorates and a chunk comes off and leaves a gap when it's shut. I removed the rubber to see if it would seal and it didn't work. I ended up going with the hewett module. We'll see how long it lasts. Works so far.

 

Here's my update. It took about two days to negotiate and repair after initial estimate:
#1 called the corporate number 800-331-4331 and filed a complaint on the defective part after dropping off the vehicle. Dealership can't call for you but was upfront in asking if I needed the corporate phone number. I kept coming back to the idea on the call/complaint that Toyota knows the part is defective as documented on here but won't issue a recall. (I also asked to take the Customer Satisfaction Survey after each call to corporate).
#2 the dealer's diagnostic verified that P2440-P2442 secondary air injection pumps are stuck open due to "shedding debris".
#3 The Pump Assembly was $893.35, the Valve Assembly was $657.14 and the initial total estimate with labor was $2569.35.
#4 Called corporate to follow up and we negotiated to my cost being $1552 (the parts and tax). I paid no labor cost. (sounded like they usually negotiate to pay 50% or 100% of labor costs.
#5 Still voiced an issue about the same part numbers being installed meaning that the design problems with those parts have not been corrected.

Thanks to everyone that provided info on this thread/site and to my local dealership. Call and file a complaint with corporate if this problem happens to you.
Good luck and I hope this information helps someone else.

 

Most likely your issue is just the valve assembly, which you can purchase cheaper then that $657 they are quoting you. I haven't seen many on here have the pump assembly fail yet, if yours isn't bad they are making $893 off you. Have them replace just the valves first and go from there if your having them do the work.

 

I got my valve assy for around $450

 

2012 Sport, (61,000 km) 38,000 miles, driving tonight and the Trac and engine light came on, difficult time getting up a hill but after 10 minutes of driving power came back but both lights are still on. Just made my last payment on Friday....this really sucks!!!!!

 

Hey man, I'm in SJ too. That's some low km's for problems like this. You would still be under warranty I'm guessing.