Seized spark plugs

Clearwater Bill. It is not the reason, I have actually been researching and looking at every type of truck on the market for the last two months, just been real hard to swallow paying 40+K for the next one, this just might be the straw break, i can't keep putting money in this truck.

 

It's a no-no to mess with plugs on a warm engine, could compromise (strip) the threads.

 

Are you saying buy using anti seize I created the problem, I have read not too and you should use antiseize, Who to believe huh.

 

I understand. Of course there is no law saying you have to buy new either. There are nice used choices available too.

I think you can fix your current issue for under $10 and some patience.

When you consider that $40 large and what it could be doing investment wise (if you are a cash buyer) or what you could do with payments if you were to finance, you can spend a fair chunk of change on your truck and still be way ahead. If you can maintain it for 3 monthly payments a year, you're doing fine. And don't include things like tires, brakes, etc that the new ride will need too...........

Good luck with your plugs.

 

Well I just did my plugs and they were tough but I got them out. I read not use anti-seize as it could mess with the Torque specs, plus according to NGK they have anti-seize coating on the threads of the plugs I purchased.

 

X2 done this before and worked perfectly

 

That they do. So a bit more, if needed to insure even coating, isn't gonna do anything to any torque reading that the material it came with did.

Torque values are pretty low anyway. I do mine by feeling the crush washer collapse, then just a pinch more.

 

OK, I'm not disputing ... bit do you or others have any literature on this?? I'd like to better understand.

In the past with severely stuck (3/8 - 1") bolts, socket hear we would use a torch with a pin point flame to heat the bolt to read hot then hit it with an impact. Never failed ... just saying.

 

Aluminum engine heads are soft and more susceptible to stripping when engine is hot. You're supposed to avoid removing and/or installing plugs when hot.

 

I've paid a good part of my house from fixing never seize issues.
Especially from spark plugs.
Never never never never use that crap. It's a high temp area and drys and hardens. Then you can't move it and it almost acts like locktite. Then when you move it it starts to Gaul the threads and cross thread. Now if you get them out you need to run a tap through those threads to get rid of the rest of it. A light oil presence is all you need for installing plugs.
Do whatever you want. But no problems for 170 some odd thousand miles and you change them and add never seize and now???

 

So then why do OEM WRAF sensors and O2 sensors come with copper based antiseize packets, and or on the threads already?

 

Not aluminum application

 

How do dealers change spark plugs when customers bring their cars in hot?

 

Wait till they cool.

 

i never used it before until i read it hear on TW. the last time i used it, i did have that weird feeling pulling them out like something was galling. next time, i might forgo it.

 

well, now what do we do if we already put some plugs in with some seize on them? less than 2k miles ago might I add

 

Thanks for the clarification.

 

I use a little copper antiseize (loctite brand ) on mine every time. Works great. Tighten them down just like Clearwater Bill said. Easy peezy. Of course, I likely change mine more regulalry than most as well.

 

Thanks for all the comments and advice guys ,maybe ill get in the mood to try again in a couple of days.

 

Nothing, you'll be fine.